Blogs from Amhara Region, Ethiopia, Africa - page 8

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Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Lalibela February 8th 2011

(I found this while cleaning the computer. Apparently I was not impressed with it 8 months ago. This may still be the case, but if I ever reread any of these things in my dotage, it should be with the rest. good or bad.) Disentangling mythology from history is a tricky business. Perhaps one that is not even possible. Napolean said that history was only “the version of past events that people have decided to agree upon”. So, what is history, and consequently, what is true, depends on who you ask. What outsiders might consider myth or apocrypha is for Ethiopians, indisputably, historical fact. They have resoundingly agreed, and for a couple millennium have been fleshing out the story, working out the kinks, and tying up loose ends. For Ethiopians, the legitimacy and foundation of the ... read more
top of st. giorges
looking down at giorges
faithful in the courtyard

Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Bahir Dar February 8th 2011

Od tygodnia jestesmy w Etiopii. Dotarlismy wczoraj do Bahir Dar, skad do Was pisze. Jest to pierwsze miejsce z internetem , nastepne za 600km w stolicy. Wrazenia poki co mieszane - od euforii i zachwytu nad wspanialymi widokami, rdzennymi mieszkancami zyjacymi w slomianych chatach , swietnym jedzeniam, po totalna nienawisc i zniechecenie do zyjacego tu narodu.... Niezwykle jest to, ze dorosli sa niezwykle mili i gdyby zyli tu sami dorosli, bylby to wspanialy kraj. Niestety nasza zmora sa wstretne dzieciaki!!!! Na podjazdach biegna za rowerem (a kondycje maja) i krzycza "money.money, give me money", "give me a pen", "give me t-shirt" probuja otwierac sakw, zeby cos ukrasc. Na zjazdach wrzeszcza "give me money" z jakas tylko sobie znana wizja ze rowerzysta pedzacy 60km na h zatrzyma sie i zacznie rozdawac pieniadze! Na prostych rzucaja w nas ... read more

Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Simien Mountains January 30th 2011

The hike was only a dozen steps old and already, William the Scot and I realised that we don’t have any water left for the rest of the first day. We were hiking the Simeon Mountains for 3 days so we packed enough water but our reserve stocks were with the mules taking another route. How could it be that we would be out of water after only 12 steps? Simeon is 5 hours along a dusty bumpy bus north of Gondor. You can book a tour or just rock up and hope to join some others. We managed to join up with 6 - 4 Russians and a Belgium couple. By skipping the tour and doing it ourselves it worked out very cheap for African hiking in a National Park. Getting a bargain would be ... read more
2 - guard
3 - Gondor castle
4 - Umm that's going to be hard to do

Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Lalibela January 29th 2011

I felt like I was cheating flying into Lalibela. From Addis it can take 2 days by bus, most locals walk here or arrive on donkey but that generally is for one special day on January 7. Laddet or as we know it, Christmas. I booked this flight months ago after tackling some hellish bus rides in Malawi so I got it for a bargain price of $60 and the aerial reward for showing some initiative was one of the best decisions I made in Ethiopia. Aerially Ethiopia is spectacular, the rigid hills just seem impenetrable and you can understand why buses are just a torturously long process. The flight went via 2 other airports, Bahir Dar and Gondor. Bahir Dar is on Lake Tana and the view was impressive, after seeing a dry yellow desert ... read more
2 -
3 - Bet Giyorges
4 - Pilgrim near Bet Medhane Alem

Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Lalibela January 20th 2011

Stuck in the pitch blackness of the narrow tunnel, crushed between countless chanting pilgrims, unsure of just how much further there was to go until I would emerge from “Hell” into “Heaven”, I began to get a little panicky. Now, I am not usually one to get claustrophobic, but in this situation I was getting close to hyperventilating. Ten minutes, twenty minutes, thirty minutes… When would I see the outside world again? When would I be able to breathe freely? When at last I saw the beam of light ahead, I understood why this tunnel between the rock-hewn churches of Bet Gabriel-Rufeal and Bet Mekorios is known as the “Way to Heaven”. I sighed a deep sigh of relief and stumbled up the narrow stairs that led into the bright sunlight. At the top of the ... read more
Downtown Lalibela?
UNESCO Covers
Helpful Signs

Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Lalibela January 19th 2011

Yes, the 10 hour bus ride to Lalibela was enough to calm me down and digest the previous day. After Alex tried to get into my hostel and called me several times the day after to apologize, I am apologizing now for the generalization that was offensive and disrespectful. I wrote my blog entry while I was still pissed off and it was the anger and disappointment that spoke. But still, telling my stories to my friends they agreed that for a girl travelling alone and trying to make friends in Ethiopia is pretty tuff. I was always jealous, how Moritz could easily make friends and hang out with them without any problem, but neither Susi nor me found it smooth to get on well with guys here. You always have to consider that they might ... read more

Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Lalibela January 19th 2011

The previous day, while consuming some honey wine with Pavel we agreed, that he goes hiking early in the morning and I try to arrange some transportation to the airport of Lalibela on Monday. Unfortunately I had to fly back to Addis, as it would have taken 2 days by bus and I still needed to do some souvenir shopping, so I had to sacrifice some money on this adventure. We flew by a very nice and -compared to the bus ride a much more- comfortable plane to Gondar and from there to Addis. I was the only fool clapping when we landed in the capital, but not for respect to the pilot, but because I couldn’t wait inhaling the awfully polluted air of Addis, walking the streets, catching a minibus, seeing the same buildings and ... read more
Ethiopian airlines
spongy sky

Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Lalibela January 19th 2011

Woooow, the view from my window was stunning!!! But visiting the 11 churches carved from the rock was even more amazing. The trip started with the so necessary and unavoidable negotiation with the tour guide, who wanted to charge us 500Birr for one day (approx 20€). Which for a tourist is not too much, but knowing my friend Esset who is a primary school teacher and earns 600Birr/month, I felt it very unfair. With my Amharic knowledge and with my mom’s heritage of being good at bargaining I made betam kennesed it to 100Birr each. The churches are divided into 3 groups, representing the 3 first, second and third heavens. According to the legend in the 12th-13th century King Lalibela was poisoned by his half-brother and while in a coma he went on a journey to ... read more
Pavel, Ralph, Dennis & Nega
Lalibela priest
fresco

Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Bahir Dar January 15th 2011

Arriving in Bahir Dar, after a perhaps too eventful minibus ride from Gonder (complete with a little fender-bender), I felt like I had arrived in a tropical paradise. Although still the Ethiopian highlands, Bahir Dar is a bit lower (less than 2000m!) and there is a greater lushness to this lakeside town. There were even palm trees to complete the picture. So different from the brown landscapes of the dry season in the other parts of Ethiopia that I had visited! Bahir Dar is on the southern shore of Lake Tana, the largest lake in Ethiopia and generally considered to be the source of the Blue Nile (though there are those who would argue that there are springs that pour into the lake – so it is not really THE source). I took a certain smug ... read more
Hotel with View
We have to take this?
Crossing the Blue Nile

Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Simien Mountains January 13th 2011

As we drove the long, very bumpy road north of Gonder, I kept my eyes peeled for some sign of the mighty Simien Mountains that I would soon be trekking. But it seemed they were nowhere to be seen. All around were gently rolling hills. Where were the mountains, the highest in Ethiopia? It wasn’t till we practically were falling off the edge that I realized that in fact we actually HAD been climbing into the mountains, gradually making our way up a “gentle” slope that would give way to a jaw-dropping plunge along a dramatic escarpment, with views to put the Grand Canyon to shame. The Simien Mountains were sort of stealth mountains, if you will. When I signed up for this adventure, I opted for a five-day, four-night trek, which would not get me ... read more
Looking fresh at the beginning of the trek.
First camp, Sankaber
A little post-hike snack with Gezmo




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