Blogs from Amhara Region, Ethiopia, Africa - page 6

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Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Axum March 13th 2012

We got to the bus station in Debark for 8.30 a.m. to make sure we got a spot on the bus going from Gonder to Axum. After a bit of a scramble once the bus arrived, I managed to get us two tickets. The bus set off around 9.30 a.m. and as soon as we left Debark we began a slow, winding descent down the mountains. The views were incredible, but it wasn't the most comforting sight when you looked out the window and saw the bus wheel inches from the edge of a sheer cliff face. Any mistake from the driver and we would have been rolling down a couple of thousand feet! The driver negotiated all of the hairpin bends all the way down, but then we had to do the same in reverse ... read more
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Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Lalibela March 11th 2012

We fortified ourselves for the first day of our TESFA trek by having a huge lunch of Ethiopian food at a local restaurant. It was my idea of a perfect meal: a huge piece of injera with many little types of food arranged around it, such as pickled vegetables, spicy goat meat, shredded beets and lentil sauce. I thought of it as Ethiopian tapas and once I’d discovered it, I ordered it every chance I could get! The TESFA arrangement with the local villages in the Ethiopian highlands around Lalibella was unique as far as our travel experience went. The local villages would build a group of tukuls, or huts, at a scenic place within a certain distance of their village. Trekkers would spend the night at these huts, being hosted by a different village each ... read more
Loaded donkeys on the path
An adventurous section
Taking a break for a lollipop

Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Simien Mountains March 8th 2012

We spent a couple of days in Gonder trying to figure out the best way to do a trek in the Simien Mountains. After speaking to a couple of tour operators, we decided the best option was to head to Debark and organise it ourselves there. The extra days in Gonder gave us a chance to meet up with some other people we had met over the past few weeks and we had one good night out, where we went out to one of the local clubs. I tasted some tej that night, which is their local honey liquer and fairly potent. We were up at 5.30 a.m. to get the bus to Debark. This left at around 6.30 a.m. and after just the one breakdown, arrived 4 and half hours later. We were quickly harassed ... read more
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Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Lalibela March 6th 2012

We arrived inLalibella, Ethiopia, at about 10 in the morning after an early-morning flight fromNairobitoAddis Ababa, a flight from Addis to the Lalibella airport, and a half-hour drive in an overcrowded minicab. To continue the bad luck we’d had booking last-minute accommodation on this trip (memories of arriving inDurban,South Africaat the same time as the International Conference on Climate Change), we unknowingly planned to arrive in Lalibella right in the middle of one of the biggest religious festivals of the year. It is called Tim Kat and is a celebration of the Epiphany, which of course would be of great significance to this predominantly Orthodox Christian area of the country. We were lucky enough to find a room at a reasonable price, as we’d heard that some hotels were charging up to 200 USD for a ... read more
Watching the procession from Alief Paradise Hotel
Two kids posing for the camera
Chuck's eye view of the parade

Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Bahir Dar March 4th 2012

We were told to be at the ferry dock for 6.30 a.m. as it would be leaving at 7 a.m. Even though, we very much doubted this, we arrived just before 7 a.m. and sure enough it didn't leave until after 8 a.m. (not bad going really in hindsight). The MV Tananich is a weekly ferry between Bahir Dar and Gorgora, which makes several stops en route, including an overnight in a small village called Konzula. We decided to take this as Gorgora was quite close to Gonder where we were returning to organise a trek in the Simien Mountains. We thought it would be more interesting to see a bit of Northern Ethiopia right off the tourist trail and there was also a certain romance about sailing across Ethiopia's largest lake. Any illusions of romance ... read more
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Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Bahir Dar March 2nd 2012

We took a bus down to Bahir Dar after a couple of days in Gonder. This should have been a relatively straightforward 3 hour bus journey. But we quickly learned that straightforward and bus journeys don't belong in the same sentence in Ethiopia. Despite our bus having 'Lufthanza' emblazoned on the front, it was anything but reliable or efficeint and after about 45 minutes we were broken down. After about a half hour or so of maintenance work, there was still no restarting 'Lufthanza'. A second bus pulled up and more maintenance work continued. We were assured that the guy from the second bus was an expert mechanic and would get the bus started. After about an hour we decided to cut our losses and decided to get on a minibus going by, despite having to ... read more
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Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Gondar February 27th 2012

After more than 8 weeks in the Islamic world it was time to say goodbye to 5.30 a.m prayer calls followed by 4 more throughout the day. No more waking up to Allah Akhbar. We got up at 6.30 a.m. to get the bus out of Kassala to give ourselves the best chance of getting over the border with Ethiopia that day. We found the bus going to Gedaref, bought tickets and then got some breakfast. At 8.30 a.m. we got on the bus, hoping it would be moving shortly. It was 10.20 before it did move and this was only to the entrance of the bus station. At 10.40 we were on the road. It was about 3 hours to Gedaref on really good road. We then found a minibus going to Gallabat, the border ... read more
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Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Lalibela November 27th 2011

ETHIOPIA: Rock-Hewn Churches...LALIBELA. Many years ago...like...millions of years ago...a volcano erupted and spewed its guts over part of what is the Amhara region of Northern Ethiopia. Considering its proximity to the Rift Valley...and proliferation of volcanic activity in milleniums past...not that surprising you say. But this volcano left a flow of lava ...later divided by the River Jordon...that was later exploited in an attempt to create a "New Jerusalem." Sounds whacky...if it was not true! In 1185 A.D. a baby was born...which attracted a honey bee...who called his mates...and a swarm of bees surrounded the bub. The baby's mother unperturbed...naturally regarded it as a good omen for the future of the child. "He'll be King of Ethiopia one day" she surmized ...and of course she was right... read more
BET AMANUEL
BET GIYORGIS
BET MEDHANE ALEM

Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Lalibela November 20th 2011

ETHIOPIA: Timket in Lalibela...Seeking Enlightenment. What is a mozaic of colour...a rugby scrum of thousands...a plethora of satin umbrellas...the most ornate crowns adorning heads one could possibly see...a pulsating rhythm of sandled feet...hours and hours of Geez...days of frantic passion...of faith...of faces...smiling or heavenward...and robes of white & red...of black & gold...of purples...of blues...of every colour imaginable...in a magic, exotic locale? Welcome to Timket in Lalibela...it is all of those things...and more. A three day festival to honour the Epiphany...the baptism of Christ... Ethiopian style. In Mali our adventures were all leading to the Festival in the Desert...from Bamako to Timbuktu...to "the most remote music festival in the World"...dancing all the way...rewarded by "Our Tuareg Wedding" in the Sahara...recommitting for ... read more
AWAITING THE ARK
CROWNS & CROSSES
THE JOY OF TIMKET

Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Axum October 30th 2011

ETHIOPIA: Reviving the Axumite Empire. Enter our flight at Bahir Dar...hostess points to my seat...front seat, window...big white man in it...empty next to him...Ros's seat. "Excuse me, you are in my seat," as I show him my ticket. "Take it up with him" he points across the aisle front seats to where three black men in suits are sitting. "He took my seat...take it up with him." "That's got nothing to do with me. It's not my problem." "It is now. It's now your problem." "No it's not. Can I have my seat, please?" "What are you going to do about it? Do you want to fight me?" He raises his fists. The hostess grabs me "I have a seat for you here." I glare at the protaginist as I'm escorted down the back. Ros...long gone..! ... read more
WELCOME TO AXUM
THE ARK OF THE COVENANT
MY QUEST




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