Blogs from Amhara Region, Ethiopia, Africa - page 7

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Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Simien Mountains October 21st 2011

Not feeling very recovered, we’re up early to reverse our trip back to Chirro Leba in the vain hope the notes of this trip might be correct that there might be an option to catch lift on a 4x4 back to Chennek and thus avoid ascending the long ridge we descended the day before yesterday. It’s a slow start out of camp for the weary legs and RL is struggling on the descents (though still, somehow, remains cheery enough). Both knees are suffering now and that lost strap might’ve been useful at this point. I recall some of my worst descents with bad tendons and am impressed by how little her obviously painful knees are denting her spirits. Once on the ascent to Chirro Leba, the going is a bit easier (if much hotter and made ... read more

Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Simien Mountains October 20th 2011

Not much sleep achieved before the early morning call. A brief breakfast and we’re off into the darkness. But the three of us soon switch off our head torches as the moon is providing enough light to walk by. Three hours in the moonlight and the sun begins to shed its yellow beams onto to the high escarpment behind us. The hiking has been mostly on the road here which is always disappointing for a summit attempt. Nature has shown the folly of this road already though. Carved into the hillside, the road exposes fragile rock and earth and, at many points along its length, the road is impassable due to landslides. Impassable by vehicle that is, easily passable by foot. Icy puddles provide entertainment along the way until the sun reaches us an hour or ... read more
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Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Simien Mountains October 19th 2011

One of our American friends has woken with serious digestive issues so a hasty search around the camp for the right anti-biotics is under way by the time we rise. Various drugs are located (some might even help) but their trip is over – they will be heading back today. We march on back up to the next lump of escarpment and hike over its craggy ridge to reveal more fantastic views and the first sight of our route up Ras Dashen. It’s a thousand-metre drop in altitude down the river in the valley between us and the Ras Dashen range and then it’s another thousand-metre ascent to reach the summit. A long, grinding descent leads to the corrugated-iron clad village of Chirro Leba. A tourist-priced cold drink is in order at the wee “hotel” DJ ... read more
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Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Simien Mountains October 18th 2011

Rough night’s sleep leads to a creaky start but, all things considered, the aging body is feeling quite willing. Today we trek on to our first summit – the jutting promontory of Imet Gogo. Allegedly, the views from here surpass the ones from Ras Dashen’s summit. We happily meander along the rolling hills until we reach the beginning of the high rocky outcrops and the first of the truly stunning views of the park below. A countless series of peaks stretches as far as the eye can see. Reminiscent of grand canyon scenes but pock-marked with agriculture and really impressively green. I sit for a while with DJ and PC until RL and JW catch up. We drop our packs (PC stays behind with them) and head for the summit. A couple of short awkward scrambles ... read more
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Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Simien Mountains October 17th 2011

Rise to a welcome breakfast and hand on the second portion of omelette to some American friends (they work with RL and are here purely by coincidence) whose cook, after some misunderstanding, was left behind in Debark. DJ eventually manages to work out that their cook is on the way. We set off for a day’s hike – 6 hours or so at a steady pace. We rise onto the escarpment of the park and follow it to sit above the Geech Abyss with its impressive waterfall cascading a good five hundred feet or more into the bottomless abyss (there is a bottom of course, it just can’t be seen from our craggy vantage point). We scramble up an eroded hillside to meet the dirt road that is now used by all the local villagers and ... read more
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Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Simien Mountains October 16th 2011

Early start delivers us to the domestic terminal for what’s promised to be an early and short flight to Gondar. Soon becomes obvious the flight will be going via Axum and is leaving half an hour later than scheduled. The flight actually leaves an hour and a half late and then sits at the tiny airfield in Axum for nearly an hour, meaning we arrive about three hours late in Gondar. In the confusion of Gondar, we collect our cook (KB). The drive from Gondar to Debark is appalling. The Ethiopian government are borrowing money they have no way of repaying to pay Chinese construction firms to build a whole series of roads in this area but the one to Gondar is very much still “under construction”. This seems to involve much in the way of ... read more
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Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Bahir Dar October 16th 2011

ETHIOPIA...The Fountain of Youth. Travelling in exotic locations...I get thirsty. Thirsty for adventure...for raw experience of life...on paths less travelled...that captures my imagination...inspires my soul. But will I have enough years left in me to visit the many places on my "Wish List"..? You hear about crackpots extoling the quest for eternity...any attempt to beat the aging process...using scam tea remedies, special anti-wrinkling cream, herbal potions...even face lifts. But I...not being a crackpot...well...I try to be more scientific. Accordingly, now I am in Ethiopia heading for Enlightenment at the Timket Festival in Lalibela...I might as well take the opportunity to address my age limitations in the process..! I thus begin my search for "The Fountain of Youth"...and I reckon ...some of these Ethiopian Saints...might well help me..! ... read more
RIDING THE CHICKEN
ST GEBRE MANFUS KIDDUS
PAPYRUS BOATS

Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Gondar October 2nd 2011

ETHIOPIA...Gondar to Find Prester John. I saw an old woman resting by the roadside on the mountain overlooking Addis Ababa...her massive load of sticks awaiting return to her back. Her face etched with a life of endurance and experience. So I asked her where to find Prester John. "Those days are long gone" she said looking down and spitting to confirm the point. Ping...brain engaged. "Long gone... gone... gon... dar... Gondar... that's it... that's where I must go to find Prester John..!" Gondar...the Camelot of Ethiopia...in the highlands of the North. Prester John...the mythical priest and king of a magnificent Christian kingdom in the East, the home of the Fountain of Youth...a descendant of the Magi (the Three Wise Men from the Gospels)... "who reign supreme, surpass in virtue, riches and power all creatures under heaven"...the ... read more
SPITTING TO CONFIRM THE POINT
IYASU'S CASTLE
JOHANNUS IV & HIS ARMY

Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Lalibela May 24th 2011

Ethiopia is a country apart as a travel destination, there’s simply no doubt about it. During the past fortnight, I’ve borne witness to more intense experiences in this fascinating country than anywhere in the world … period! The moment you step outside the hotel there’ll be sights guaranteed to blow your mind, and it’s best to leave long held assumptions about western living at the door. Ethiopia features human interaction that is raw, it can be almost primal; but in spite of the confronting poverty there’s an underlying generosity of spirit that pervades the culture. The journal continues, dear reader, from where we left off in Addis Ababa. My growing fascination with Ethiopia continues apace, including the unique style of song and dance. The dancers specialise in energetic shoulder and neck movements, and it’s amazing to ... read more
St George church
Another intricate church
Lalibela church

Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Lalibela February 8th 2011

(I found this while cleaning the computer. Apparently I was not impressed with it 8 months ago. This may still be the case, but if I ever reread any of these things in my dotage, it should be with the rest. good or bad.) Disentangling mythology from history is a tricky business. Perhaps one that is not even possible. Napolean said that history was only “the version of past events that people have decided to agree upon”. So, what is history, and consequently, what is true, depends on who you ask. What outsiders might consider myth or apocrypha is for Ethiopians, indisputably, historical fact. They have resoundingly agreed, and for a couple millennium have been fleshing out the story, working out the kinks, and tying up loose ends. For Ethiopians, the legitimacy and foundation of the ... read more
top of st. giorges
looking down at giorges
faithful in the courtyard




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