At Luxor railway station we bargain with a taxi driver for a “good price” for the short ride to our hotel. Good for whom? The taxi is a battered old Peugeot 204, perhaps 50 years old? The door locks don't really work; the boot is held open with a stick; the speedo is stuck on zero. But it gets us to the illustrious Winter Palace Hotel, or rather its newer and cheaper Pavilion wing. Our room overlooks the wonderful gardens. The Winter Palace Hotel has always been the place to stay and everybody has – from Lady Di to Richard Gere. In 1923, Howard Carter used the hotel's imposing staircase as his podium to announce to the world’s press that he had, at last, found Tutankamun's tomb. The Nile is wide here and a local ferry,
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