Gill and Alistair

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February 21st 2012

Our early morning flight landed us on the tiny island of Antigua, the smallest and last island on our trip. It was always a British island, never changing hands until it became independent in 1981. We built so many forts and garrisons that the French could never take it from us. Antigua is now home to some interesting and rich expats including Eric Clapton who has an estate on Indian Creek Point. We took a local minibus to our hotel in English Harbour, a large village set between two deep natural harbours. The small 6 room hotel was built by an English couple who sailed across the Atlantic with their children 23 years ago. They sailed the length of the Caribbean, from Venezuela to Florida, before deciding to settle down here. It is a tradition on ... read more



Guadeloupe

Published: February 17th 2012Central America Caribbean » Guadeloupe » Basse Terre
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February 17th 2012

Our final ferry trip took us north from Dominica to Guadeloupe, another French department. Its two main islands are connected by short causeways over mangrove swamps. We head onto the westerly island of Basse Terre, to the village of Vieux Habitants. Once again we have a self-catering studio, this time with a view over palm trees to the Caribbean sea. With just 11 days left to eat, drink and be merry before Ash Wednesday, it is carnival time on Guadeloupe. Every night there are carnival parades featuring this year's entries from the local villages' and towns' carnival clubs. We went to our local carnival parade in Bouillante, where everyone was in party mood, wearing either their best clothes or something weird and wonderful. When the parade started, just two hours late, down the road came the ... read more



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February 13th 2012

Our next destination on Dominica was Grand Fond, high in the mountains. Although it only has a population of 1,200, it is the largest village in the area. In bad weather, the only road in gets blocked. After the 2004 earthquake, sixteen landslides closed the road – food had to be helicoptered in! We were staying with the Lesley family and, at the village school, we met Mrs. Lesley, the headmistress. The school teaches 87 children from 3 to 11 years old and was built by Oxfam. We arrived during the last period of the day and were able to have a good look around and chat to the very lively and friendly children. They tried to teach us a new hop-scotch like game … with little success. The school itself was a bland concrete building ... read more



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February 8th 2012

We are living in a bamboo tree house, in the rain forest on the island of Dominica. The house is set alone on a hill, high above the actual lodge. Up in the house we have a bed, a hammock ,a composting toilet and a large balcony. Below, there is a cold shower! Lizards keep us company and an agouti (a long legged guinea pig) lives underneath the house. But the forest comes to life at night. As the sun sets, the quiet of the day is replaced by the sound of raucous insects, frogs and toads. They sings us to sleep – under a mosquito net, in our little tree house in the middle of nowhere. It is a full moon at the moment and we spend the evenings on our balcony watching the fire ... read more



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February 2nd 2012

A rough 90 minute ferry crossing brought us to Martinique and into a different world. It is a department of France and much more developed that St Lucia. Gone are the unsigned, potholed roads – here we have a well-signed dual carriageway that takes us past Carrefour supermarkets. It really is the French Caribbean and quite a culture shock. Our rental Fiat Panda – air con, shiny, wrong side of the road – joins the rush hour traffic out of the capital, Fort-de-France, on a Friday night. By the time we get to the southern tip and the little town of Ste. Anne, the road is down to a narrow two lanes and the traffic has eased. Here we have a studio in a small complex on the beach. Everything is explained to us in French ... read more



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January 26th 2012

Our last evening on our balcony, watching the sun set into the Caribbean. We spend our evenings cooking in our little kitchen, which has been somewhat challenging. Many fruits and vegetables are unknown or a bit strange – “love apples” that look like plums and taste between a sweet lemon and a pear; a sweet potato that is white inside and looks like an ordinary potato; avocados the size of melons, with a stone inside to match. And can anyone tell me why they sell Waitrose semi-skimmed milk here? We have no problem with the language – everyone speaks English and signs are in English. But to each other the locals speak a Caribbean Patois that is French-based but includes English words. I guess this is the result of the island changing hands 14 times between ... read more



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January 21st 2012

This is being written on our apartment balcony. The sun is setting over the Caribbean in front of us. To the left, the twin peaks of the Piton mountains. To the right, is Anse Chastanet, our local beach. In the fridge, some kingfish steaks and fresh vegetables for dinner ... and some good local rum, just £6 a litre. From St Lucia airport, we drove off in a rather old Suzuki jeep – that's what a cheap rental gets you here. It proved ideal on some pretty poor roads, especially when we hit the final two miles to the villa, a steep and rough switchback that climbed up Hummingbird hill until we reached the villa and the view in the photos. We have tried to work at the local pace today, with a trip to Soufriere ... read more



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January 14th 2012

Put together a cheap flight, a few places to stay off the beaten track and some local ferries and what do you get? Five weeks island hopping in the warmth of the Caribbean sunshine. The flight will drop us into St Lucia - home for a week. Then we'll be using the local ferries to head north, first to Martinique then on to Dominica and Guadeloupe. Finally, we'll hop across to Antigua for a few days before heading homeward. In between we hope to explore all the variety that the Caribbean offers - snorkelling in the warm seas; walking up to boiling lakes and volcanoes; staying in apartments, villas, homestays and treehouses; shopping in the local markets and drinking rum punch. We plan to blog as we go along - more from the sunshine of St. ... read more



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October 2nd 2011

Thirteen trains through ten countries - running just 90 minutes late, we ride in to Istanbul on the Bosphor Express. It is literally the end of the line – beyond the sadly run-down station is the sea and beyond that Asia. We are a little sleepy, despite having enjoyed the luxury of a six berth sleeping compartment for just two on our 15 hour train ride. Our sleep was first interrupted at 2 am - leaving Bulgaria meant having our passports checked. At about 3, we all had to disembark to buy our Turkish visas. Once we had returned to bed, there was then another passport check – to make sure we had all got visas. And about an hour later, the Turkish train guard knocked to check our tickets. We did then get some sleep ... read more



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September 29th 2011

Early on Tuesday we board the same train that we arrived on two days ago, completing its run to Bucharest. Just 100 miles and it takes three hours … and this is an express! We have a quick change to make in Bucharest but are thrown by the station board saying our next train is heading for Sofia not Istanbul. We discover that we are once again on a train that splits, half will go west and half south. We now have a routine for long distance train travel. We stock up on snacks and water – restaurant cars are not to be relied on and the dreadful breakfast on Romanian railways has put us off for a long while. If it is an overnight trip, wine is essential for the evening. Once establishing ourselves, out ... read more






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