Of Mice and Muchachos

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Geo: -41.1333, -71.2833

Day 8 – October 29

"The best-laid plans of mice and men often go awry." – Robert Burns

When we awoke this morning, it was snowing. My initial reaction was, “Aye Yai Yai!” It's spring here, but this is crazy. It's a serious mid-spring snow. Especially in the mountains.

We had breakfast in the gorgeous dining room, with snow falling on mountains that had no snow yesterday.

We packed up our gear, checked out of Llao Llao and headed off for our morning tour with local guide Lucia. We were scheduled to take a chairlift ride but the 34-degrees, the wind, the snow and the open air lift would make for a pretty miserable “wind chill factor”, causing the Tauck folks to make the call to cancel. Bummer.

We toured the area, with our guide pointing out the “lambs” on the water (white caps).

Patagonia has the lowest elevation of all of the Andes and yet it has the best ski resort (Catedral). Lucia compared the various regions of Argentina … Cuyo wine in the northwest, Patagonia, Gauchos (leather/beef), Buenos Aires, etc.

For the longest time, no one had any interest in Patagonia except for The Magellan Pass. But eventually they realized there was a lot of lush acreage so Chile and Argentina negotiated a division that involved the continental divide.

Much of Argentina's income is from the land. They grow things. They mine things. So in 1934, when the national park system was established, it was unusual for Argentinians to focus on conserving the land, instead of utilizing it. Because they don't do that well, Patagonia has a high unemployment rate, especially in the non-peak seasons.

Argentinean inflation runs 25-28% annually. In 1989, it ran 100% a day! So those who have been around a while don't think it's as bad as it has been.

Patagonia's history began with a 1930's building boom. Then there was an influx of Germans after World War II. Turns out some of them were Nazis and there was quite a scandal as they were rounded up.

After our social history lesson, we stopped in town for some shopping. There are many, MANY chocolate stores, due to the Swiss influence. We made purchases in one chocolate shop and at an artisan gallery.

When we returned to the bus, we learned we were returning to Llao Llao resort. Severe thunderstorms in Buenos Aires had caused all flights between the two airports to be canceled. The best laid plans …

We headed to El Patacon -- our lunch destination as originally planned -- where we bought accessories in the restaurant, were introduced to Argentinian steak (tough by our standards, but tasty, esp. with Chimichurri sauce). Dessert was a caramel concoction that was frighteningly good. Best of all, we had a gorgeous view of Lake Nahuel Haupi (pronounced Now-wool-WHOP-pee) and its “lambs”.

Following lunch, we headed back to the resort via a circuitous route, which included a spectacular panoramic view of our resort. Lucia talked about a variety of vegetation, including a fungus that forms on dead trees, that becomes orange in the fall. The locals eat it and turn it into an alcoholic beverage called "llao llao" ... thus the resort name. She also mentioned how prolific bamboo is here. When there is a die-back period after a period of many years, the area becomes infested with mice/rats who eat so much bamboo they became diabetic and die. Very odd cycle.

Many were delighted we were staying another night here. It's a very special place; I'll give you that. I, however, obsessive-compulsive doer that I am, find I have WAY too much down time here, especially with the bad weather. I don't do relaxation well. I am ready to move on. In the words of Andrew Lloyd Webber's “Evita,”

What's new Buenos Aires?
I'm new, I wanna say I'm just a little stuck on you
You'll be on me too

Stand back, Buenos Aires
Because you oughta know whatcha gonna get in me
Just a little touch of star quality

The group fell into small groups for dinner, then retired early because we now have an early departure for the airport. And more importantly, Tauck paid for free wine throughout the afternoon and at dinner, so many folks were ready and willing to retire.

NOTE to those headed this way: In all our preparations, Tauck never mentioned that US $50 and $100 bills only get the special high currency conversion rate. We brought a lot of US cash to use for purchases in Buenos Aires, but it now seems that only the bigger bills get you that higher rate.

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Photos

Chocolate store in Bariloche
Heavy Swiss influence

Gotcha, Gaucho
Patrick in front of lunch spot: El Patacon

Chocolate store in Bariloche
Patrick and Candace

This could be an Eddie Bauer ad
All four all-weather coats are from Eddie Bauer. We made Anne stand behind the penguin because hers wasn't.

NC crew
Sandra & Dave McDonald
Marty & Jim Brannen
Gary & Janie Levinson
Dick & Pat Crull

Free wine from Peter Tauck!
Margaret & Klaus Koeninger
Carol Schuffler
Robyn Bloom,
Ernie & Maureen Eves
Gabbe Bloom

Comments

[Suzanne Yachechak]

Oh so beautiful! Just love these pictures of the mountains, water, and snow!! And such a good looking crew you are traveling with !

[Carole]

What a fabulous trip..... and, true to form, you are giving us all a delightful travelogue with all of the great photography! Thanks.