Nightmare Material

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Geo: 51.5002, -0.126236

Breakfast this morning – in the charming basement breakfast room – consisted of a fried egg, British bacon, and a sausage. I declined the tomato and mushrooms. There was also toast complete with toast rack, and tea. The only thing missing was fried bread.

I didn't really make an effort to get out early this morning. The wi-fi isn't really working in my room today, so I sat out in the lobby in a comfy leather chair to look at e-mail and post my latest Travelpod entry. There was a steady stream of people checking out, and I heard all kinds of accents. There was a group of four ladies who sounded Polish, but one of their group spoke English like an American. There were some pretty impenetrable British accents too. I wonder if they were in London for “the football” yesterday.

I set off just before 10:00 to walk across Hyde Park. I walked on the other side of the Serpentine, a side I had never walked before. Whereas the side that faces Kensington Gardens is all manicured and lovely, the other side is more wild and heath-y. I saw squirrels playing in the trees, geese sunning themselves on the banks, and a German shepherd playing frisbee. It was also already quite hot, but there were still plenty of masochists out jogging. Freaks.

I crossed over the Serpentine so that I could see the Diana, Princess of Wales Memorial Fountain. It's quite pleasant, and there were loads of kids (and some adults) wading through it and having a terrific time.

I eventually ended up at the Natural History Museum. I've been there before (in 1996?), but last year I read a book by a former curator of one of the fossil galleries, and I decided I'd like to see it again. I ended up spending close to five hours inside, which I hadn't exactly planned on. The building itself is worth the price of admission (er ... the museum is actually free): there are pillars covered in vine-like carvings or climbing monkeys, fabulous staircases, different colors of bricks, and leaded glass windows. The entry hall is dominated by a diplodocus skeleton, and above it all at the top of the stairs is a section of Giant Sequoia that was cut down in California in the late 1800s.

I did go into the Creepy Crawlies gallery. I'm going to have such nightmares tonight.

I didn't get hungry till close to 2:00, thanks to my big breakfast. I went to the cafe in the museum and got a small egg sandwich, some water, and a brownie. I also discovered that my Rick Steves' London book was missing. I knew I had it at the breakfast table, but I couldn't figure out what I might have done with it after that. Surely a pickpocket (pickpurse?) wouldn't lift a guidebook, right?

It was finally time for the museum shop. I bought a slice of purple agate from Brazil (it's got a magnet on the back) and a penguin magnet. I really, really have to lay off the magnets. I dithered over a peridot bracelet and then decided I'd never wear it, so why buy it?

I had meant to go to the V&A after the NHM, but it was so late in the day that I decided not to. Plus, I didn't have my book with the guided tour in it. Instead, I walked up Cromwell Road and popped into the Brompton Oratory, the biggest Catholic church in Britain. I've never been inside before, and it's really beautiful. There was some sort of service going on, so I stayed toward the back of the church so as not to disturb anyone. The choir was singing, the smell of incense was in the air, and there were sunbeams streaming through the clerestory windows. I only stayed for maybe five minutes, but it was an awfully nice little break.

I went into Harrods to get my favo(u)rite cocoa-dusted almonds and to just walk through the Food Halls. Apparently, Harrods has been sold by al Fayed. No one thought he would ever give up Harrods, as it's sort of the jewel in his crown. I wonder what will happen to the tacky shrine to Princess Di and Dodi.

I took the Tube to Green Park and walked up Piccadilly to ... Starbucks. Not my original intent, but there it was. I got a caramel Frappuccino and was amused to see a “Seattle Latte” in the cold case. I've no idea what made it Seattle-ish, other than the label that showed a photo of the Seattle skyline.

Then I got back on track and went to Hatchards, my favorite bookstore. It was already 5:00, and they were closing at 6:00 so I had to rush about a bit. Also? No AC in Hatchards. It was at least ten degrees hotter inside than it was outside. I bought a bunch of books and am having them shipped to the office. I must remember to look up the author Jo Nesbo (one of those Os has a diagonal line through it). Because of Stieg Larsson, there's a fad for Swedish crime fiction; Nesbo is supposed to be one of the best.

I walked up Regent Street to Oxford Circus. Hot, hot, hot, and all of the stores were about to close so there was no going inside to revel in the air-conditioning. Fortunately, the Tube was running properly, and I got to Lancaster Gate and walked up to Paddington to get a sandwich and some crisps at the Whistlestop. The chicken and sweet corn sandwich was tasty; the sausage flavored crisps bordered on disgusting.

I found an episode of Top Gear on TV that ... well, I can't really tell if I've seen it or not. The Star in a Reasonably Priced Car was Brian Johnson from AC/DC, and I'm sure I've seen him before. And James, Richard and Jeremy are going on a time-trial in Mallorca, which I know I've seen. I guess BBC America cuts an awful lot of stuff when they broadcast the shows, because there's an awful lot of stuff in this program that I'm sure I've never seen.

And my Rick Steves' London book was sitting on top of a small chest of drawers in my room.

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Photos

Princess Di's Memorial Fountain
Hyde Park

Inside the Creepy Crawlies Gallery
It's probably a bit hard to tell, but this is a photo of ants busily carrying leaves and whatnot across a tree branch.

T-Rex
He moves and roars and everything.

Comments

[Kate Szyperski]

It's a fine line between a nice day and a day that's too hot when you're in London, isn't it?!?! Of course I think anything over 70 degrees F is too hot! HA! I had those same kind of troubles on the subway in NYC. No wonder we like our
cars in Seattle! Hope you have a relaxing end of your trip and a good, uneventful flight home. Thanks so much for including me in your travel journal. I had a wonderful time living vicariously through you on your adventures! See you soon!Love,Kate