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Published: October 11th 2006
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Work and play...
... note how we have adopted distinct roles for the trip: Nick is taking life seriously and is already working hard on his portfolio for his future job as a semi-prof photographer and Kris is being The Golden Fool Nick:
Our Buenos Aires contact, advisor and "Nuevo Amiga" Sandra told us, as we climbed into the taxi back into town: " remember, a good traveller can always adapt and change depending on how things go!" Good advice, and advice that we have followed several times, but none so drastically as this morning!!
Since our last entry we left the coastal high way and headed west to join the fabled Ruta 40. This took us along a beautiful canyon (I say beautiful, but I didn't get much of a chance to look around). This Ruta 25 we followed for about 100 miles before pulling off into the scrub by about 300 m to pitch our tent, have a meal and sleep in the wilds. We woke early to a stiff breeze, which soon turned into a gale-come-sand storm! This was strong wind, trying to rip the tent from our hands as we tried to put our stuff away. It even blew a pair of my boxers away for a life floating on the Atlantic. I would not have minded, but I was wearing them at the time.... like I said, strong wind!! This we then had to ride in. I'd
The night before...
... an idyllic view for our first night's wild camping had strong winds before on the Ruta 3 so I started making progress. It was not until we almost got blown off the road that we started to get the full picture. This was full-on wind sheer, whipped up by ricocheting off the rocky bluffs. One second from one side and then from the other, trying to whip the wheels out from under us. Next time you are in a car at about 60 mph, stick your head out of the window and you are there: no joke. I was reduced to 35-40mph if not a complete stop at some points. This was not just hard, I was actually worried for our safety . We managed to limp to the next town, a total of 70 miles that day and pitched in a pretty glum town, but better that than the winds.
Forecasts were for more settled weather the next day and indeed they were, but that experience had taken its toll on me. We had a serious re-think and a chat with John, from Marahue, who suggested something very wise despite not being what we initially wanted: Head north, not south.
Essentially, spring in Patagonia is very changeable and
The morning after...
...Patagonia lets rip on Nick! very extreme, but does only last a month or so (the candle that burns twice as bright etc...), so by heading north to Mendoza and traversing Chile from the north, we re-join Patagonia at a more settled time. We will still see the Ruta 40 (although, to
Kev and Jules, I question your sanity: I've never loved tarmac so much as now on the Ruta 258: I hope ripio is like Maté: it grows on you as an aquired taste, or I'll be a nervous wreck by El Calafate!! Its all your fault: you and your inspirational chat at the Ally Pally!! ;-) ). The only problem is that this might cost us a visit to either the Iguazu falls or Ushuaia. Then again we don't want to rush where we are to get somewhere we have not yet seen: we need another month!!
So far today, though, after a sunny start its been a brilliant ride , and my spirits have lifted again!
Kriss:
Firstly: Lynnie, please accept our belated birthday wishes! Welcome to the thirty-somethings! :-)
We have had some challenging times since the last entry, both physically and emotionally. It was hard to leave Piramides - we both seemed to feel very much connected to the place. Since leaving the village, we have visited a "picturesque Welsh town" Gaiman (as described in the travel book) and spent a fortune on greysh-brown tea and a selection of "Welsh cakes", including a frozen lemon merange... It was an experience worth the money, though :-)
We've survived (just!) our first sand storm and made our way closer to the Andes. And the Andes are gorgeus!!!
I must say that it really feels now that we are out in the wild: I have seen lots of bones and corpses (no human remains yet, thank God - even though most of the street signs seem to have quite remarkable bullet holes in them...) and we have been riding for hours without encountering any other travellers.
Yesterday we stayed in Tecka. I fell in love with that little town at first sight! It had the most beautiful petrol station in the world: warm, clean loos with light and water and paper, proper coffee and even some warm snacks (not the loos, the shop!)! It was getting late and we decided to spend the night there. We checked out the camping site and it was clear that it was out of the question - situated next to the main road and had an altar-like site in the middle of it (Human sacrifices?). The local hotel had been closed town a decade ago (before they had finished building it, it seems). The locals advised us to go to the town shop - the one with green door - as they take travellers sometimes. The shop was closed. So we did the only thing we could: stood there and looked helpless (Nick's good at that). A young boy riding to the local "Super-Kiosko" to get a bag of crisps. Fluffy and round chickens pecking something on the street. The police car drives passed for its 12th circuit of the town in the shiny new pick-up. Finally, some local kids took interest on us and advised us to go to the local school as they also accomodate strangers at times. That was the best advice we have had until now: it's funny how things always seem to work out by themselves! The friendly schools matron (it was a boarding schools) kindly gave us a room with (seven!) clean beds. People here are so friendly it's just unbelievable. We were invited to cook dinner in the school kitchen after 9pm, when the matron was playing in-door football with the kids :-) Good ideas come in good places. Hence today seemed like a nice day to head north and not south :-)
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Shelley
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Add me too...
Hi Nick, Shermayne forwarded me the link but can you add me on any future entries? Thanks! Looks like youre both having a fantastic time- Im so glad after all the talking about it you finally bit the bullet and got yourselves out there! Very very very very jealous, but enjoying the blogs so keep up the good work! Take care and I hope you both enjoy every single moment- Im sure you will both come back not quite the same people you were when you left. Love Shelley x PS Dont do the flattened hair crouched over weirdo look to anyone over there, they might like it x