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Published: November 2nd 2006
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A Shadowy figure
Me without the details. Happy Thanksgiving to all you Canadians out there! This past weekend I carried on my tradition of going desert camping here in Egypt for the Thanksgiving/6th October long weekend. This time, I was off to the Black and White deserts, starting in Bahariyya, with 11 other people. This trip was a very different experience from my trip across the Western Desert to Siwa. That was a trekking trip, and we made stops, but always had to keep moving. This time, we had a chance to take it easy a little more, which also meant more time to wander around aimlessly where we stopped, and even take a nap. I loved both trips equally, though.
We arrived in the desert by Bahariyya at about sunset; we were dropped off on the highway and immediately 3 jeeps drove from out of the desert to pick us up and take us to our nearby camp. There we were greeted by our 3 Bedouin guides who already had a delicious hot meal ready for us. We ate, and then they asked us if we would like to invite some local Bedouins over for a party. We said "Why not?". So off went one guy
Views in Black
Part of the Black Desert where we hiked for a while. back to the oasis to get his friends, while a couple of us went walking in the moonlight. There is nothing so cool as seeing your own shadow at night because the moon is so bright, and everything is basked in a bluish light. When we saw the jeeps returning, we went back to camp and were met with music and singing (some people even danced). The other Bedouins stayed for a good while and then left us to sleep under the stars - just a sleeping bag and thin matress.
Next day, we awoke to the traditional desert camping breakfast - bread, cheese spread, fruit, jam and tea and coffee. Then we packed up and started to head through the desert, to the one known as the Black Desert. It is so named because of the black rocks (big and small) everywhere. It's actually a little creepy and not at all inviting when to look at the scenery, but it's cool nonetheless. We made a few stops and then continued on to a village (of, I'd say, like 20 people!!!) to stop for lunch and a wash off in the cold spring there. Off we went again across
Farming in the Desert
This oasis had a village around it (I think there must be only like 50 people here by my count :-) the desert, over rock (now beige and brown, no longer black) and sand, seeing beautiful scenes (well, maybe the camel bones/carcass weren't as beautiful) until our guides thought they found us the perfect spot to set up camp - which, of course, it was. We were in a valley with huge rocks all around us - pretty protected and isolated, no one else around anywhere. That night we saw the most beautifull sunset I have ever seen...the colour was just indescribable...pink and blue and yellow and orange. We had an awesome dinner of roasted chicken, rice and vegetable stew. That night, Willa and I went wandering all over in the once-again super bright moonlight. A miscommunication happend back at camp, and the Bedouins thought we were lost, so I guess they left to track us. We got back to camp and found out that 2 of the guys were looking for us, and we then went to track the Bedouins. We found each other and assured them we were not lost and were fine - they said - no problem, just go and enjoy the night.
Next day, I woke up again with the sun and went wandering for
Setting camp
Our Bedouin guides always found the perfect camping spots. some time alone to think. The silence is wonderful...absolutely NO SOUND. I sat alone looking the cliffs and the dunes for quite some time until I got hungry and went back to camp for food. After breakfast, we packed up and headed for the White Desert. Along the way, we did some dune jumping, something which I both love and hate. I have a great fear of the jeep tipping, even though I truly trust the drivers. I only got out once and jumped down the dune myself. It is something to experience.
The White Desert is hard to describe to you so that the true wonderful nature of it can be expressed. It is absolutely awe-inspiring how the large white chalky rocks have been formed over hundreds and hundreds of years. Every rock formation seems to resemble something - I saw a rhino, a camel, faces, and a parrot! Well, that's what I saw - I don't know about anyone else. Our final camping spot was perfect - no one else around. This night was spent eating and talking more with our Bedouin guides. After the full moon came out again, it was time to explore. The white
Beautiful evening
This picture doesn't even begin to capture the wonder of the most beautiful sunset I have ever seen. rock formations just seem to glow in the dark under the moonlight, creating a very eerie feeling. You see shapes in the rocks that you can't see in daylight - the shadow from the moonlight can fool your eyes. The scenery was all white and bluish that night.
The next day, we set off for Bawiti in the Bahariyya Oasis, where our guides lived. We visited the Crystal Mountian, and then arrived in town (after a few hours of driving). After being served lunch at our guide Magdi's house, we were heading home - a 6 hour or so drive back to Cairo. If I'm lucky, I'll get back to the desert again next year, maybe back to Siwa.
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Belinda
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Wow
I can only say that it must be breathtaking to take in such beauty! Perhaps if we ever make it there sometime, we should all go and check out some sites.