Perito Moreno Glacier

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Another early start this morning for our tour to the Perito Moreno Glacier, the most important of the 13 glaciers within the Los Glaciares National Park. Ahem, once again we didn't need to be up quite as early as we were. The person on the desk last night failed to alert us to the fact that the tour operator had telephoned to advise us that our pick up time this morning would be half an hour later than we were previously advised.

Eventually the minibus arrived to collect us and after a few more pick-ups between our hotel and the outskirts of town we were on our way to Los Glaciares National Park. As we drove along Route 11 we were able to look back towards El Calafate and watch a beautiful pink sun rise over Lago Argentino.

Despite the early hour we didn't see much in the way of native fauna. Apparently red and grey foxes, guanacos (like llamas) and pumas are native to the area, but perhaps not quite so close to the main road? Although there were no large mammals about we did see quite a few birds (probably crested caracaras?) sitting on fence posts alongside the road.

We eventually left the dry, sparsely vegetated steppes behind us and turned left on the road that would take us along the southern side of the Peninsula Magallanes to the right branch or arm (Rico Brazo) of Lago Argentino. As we started to climb through the transition zone the vegetation gradually became taller and more prolific. By the time we reached the gate of the national park we were surrounded by beech woodland. In this more forested habitat we caught a glimpse of some colourful austral parakeets.

As we drove down towards the lakeshore the minibus stopped briefly for a photo op at an elevated viewing area where we could see the face of the amazing Perito Moreno Glacier across the right arm of the lake. When we reached the shore of the lake we purchased tickets to take the cruise to the face of the glacier. It seemed crazy to come so far and then not take the cruise that would take us within metres of the glacier's imposing seventy metre face.

As we cruised we noted that the main face of the glacier was on the eastern side of the Canal de los Témpanos, but there was a strange lump of ice across the canal on the tip of the Magallanes Peninsula. No explanation was forthcoming however. Or maybe we missed the English translation? It starts to get confusing when the commentary is in Spanish, French and English and sometimes the English version has been going for a little while before you realise it it the version that you actually understand!

After our close encounter with the absolutely amazing face of the Perito Moreno we re-boarded the minibus for the drive to the Glaciar Perito Moreno viewing balconies. The viewing balconies provide visitors with nearly three kilometres of incredible vistas that look straight onto the glacier's face across the Canal de los Témpanos. In the time that was made available to us we were able to look at the face of the glacier from dozens of different heights and angles resulting in hundreds of beautiful photographs that will have to be sorted through!

From the balconies we made our way around to the park's restaurant where we were due to meet up with our guide and driver. We arrived in time to have a late lunch before our scheduled departure time for the return trip to El Calafate. Phew, all the fresh - very fresh! - glacial air had made us incredibly drowsy and we slept most of the way back to town. It was very lucky that we drove back the way we had come so we didn't miss out on any new scenery.

Back in town we walked around to the Rumbo Sur office to book a tour for tomorrow. Tomorrow we are going on a cruise that will take us to the Upsala and Spegazzini glaciers. We were warned that our eating options would be very limited on the cruise so we headed around to the supermarket to buy sandwiches, chips and apples to take with us for our lunch tomorrow.

We were going to try the other restaurant for dinner tonight and eat at Isabel Cocina al Disco again on Tuesday night, but then realised that the restaurant at our hotel is closed on Tuesdays. Keen to sample another plough disk dinner we popped in to reserve a table as we headed back to our room. Tonight we tried a trout meal prepared in a plough disk and we washed it down with a Sav Blanc ... just for a change. We haven't drunk much white wine on this trip! The fish was very good, but not quite as fabulous as the lamb. We skipped entree so we would have room to try the traditional Patagonian dessert - Queso y Dulce - a cheese & sweet potato combination that we thought sounded .... interesting. Hmmn, it was OK, but not something I am keen to try to replicate at home!



Steps 13,009 (9.45km)

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Comments

[Janet Morrison]

Glacier views
I love these photos of the glaciers! Beautiful quality. Very atmospheric.