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Published: September 5th 2015
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Windows to the Wetlands information centre
Situated just off the Arnhem Highway before the Mary River is this most interesting and informative National Parks display Hi Folks, on the road again, back down the Stuart Highway, turned east onto the Arnhem Highway, we were pleasantly surprised at the condition of the road, our first stop was the Window to the Wetlands Information Centre, expecting just the normal Tourist Information Centre, it had the most wonderful inter active multi-media exhibition of wetland habitat housed in a spectacular building, venturing upstairs, to a small theatrette and magnificent three sided balcony overlooking the Mary River flood plain, a spectacular vista. Expecting to be there for 10 or so minutes, we departed about 90 minutes later. Driving over the Mary River bridge and talking about crocodiles, I looked down to the water and notice a log, Doug said "that's a crocodile", seconds later my log moved very quickly, the first wild crocodile on this trip. On to Corroboree Billabong Hotel caravan park for the night, tested out my new home made sandfly repellant, it worked for mosquitoes as well, except my legs and arms were like grease. On to Jabiru next day, drove around the town expecting to find a free camp, no such luck, onto Obirr (pronounced Oo bee rr), with a campsite "Merl" and being in a National
Corroboree Hotel
As well as as two crocodiles, a saltie and a freshie (in separate pens) this huge albino buffalo is on display Park, you pay a small fee, the mosquitoes came free and in droves. Next morning we drove to the Aboriginal rock art sites, amazing at around 20,000 years old, we walked around on our own, then joined a Ranger guided art tour, so much more informative. On our way back we walked into the Border Store, the significance of the name I didn't then understand, we watched two Aboriginal women preparing, stripping and colouring Pandanas leaves for weaving, Doug booked a Guluyambi tour on the East Alligator River for himself at 9am next morning, my priority was doing domestics, as they were about to board, he ran back to the motor home, yelling, lock up and come on, with unbrushed teeth and hair, I threw on my hat. It was the most entertaining river cruise with guide, Neville Namarnyilk, he was so knowledgable and informative as well, threw two spears, 100 -120 metres, no fish but we were awestruck. He knew where every crocodile was, half of which we couldn't see until he pointed them out by way of the hours on a clock, we saw upwards of 30. When we dis-embarked, I went back to the motor home to
Kakadu
Merl campground, the home of the Kamikazee mosquitoes.
finish the washing up, Doug spoke to the bloke organising the tourists to thank him for my gratis trip, he said Neville was not only a qualified plumber, spoke 5 languages, English probably at the lower end, played the piano, also the guitar left handed and painted. Although not yet a tribal elder, he organises indigenous youth to learn the traditional tribal ways, hunt, live off the land, appreciate and care for their country, as well, he promotes young Indigenous bands, the lowest price on his art I saw later was $2,000 - doesn't exactly fit the stereotypical mould? The Border Store is so named as the last point between Kakadu and Arnhem Land, we will go across the Cahill Crossing (causeway) into Arnhem Land next visit with a 4wd vehicle and motor home/caravan. We didn't realise just how many places are inaccessible without a 4wd, more thought for a bigger trip. Back to "Merl" for a second night, oh, I forgot to mention, we lit double mosquito coils before dusk but as they were burnt out before dawn, we woke up to the screen door and windows black with vampire mosquitoes, had to spray the screens from the inside
Kakadu _Obirr
Ancient rock paintins
before we could venture out the door. An visit to the toilet apprehensive with caution, I killed all the mosquitoes in the cubicle, but ended up with half my backside bitten by a swarm of kamikaze mosquitoes, were they fast, a shower was definitely out of the question. Never again, go in with spray, wait 10 minutes for a chemical kill, then return. The West, South and East Alligator Rivers were named by explorer Lieutenant Phillip Parker King in 1820 in the mistaken belief the crocodiles were alligators, I guess its too late to correct the error?
Back to Jabiru and the bakery, the busiest shop in town, delicious buffalo and crocodile pies for lunch, turned onto the Kakadu Highway then on to Malabanjbanjdju Camping Area, if you can pronounce that you're doing well, we had the place almost to ourselves, went for a walk next morning but cut it short when the path went really close to the creek bank in a couple of places and advisory signs stating "Crocodiles have been seen close to river banks" we decided to cut the walk short across the centre and return. Still in the National Park but an honour box
Kakadu - Obirr
Mabuyu - An explanation of the following rock painting for payment. On to Nourlongie, the best rock artwork we had yet seen, I didn't do the climb to the top, Doug went on a little further, then to Sandy Billabong where we met a couple who had tried the Jim Jim Falls Road in a rental 4wd, so rough they turned back, we continued on to Warradjan Cultural Centre, the history and culture going back to Dreamtime creation is an absolute must visit. Getting late, we pulled into Mardugal Campground, still in the National Park, within minutes the Ranger arrived for the camp fees. My first question was "How bad are the mosquitoes", not as bad as "Merl" thank the Lord, as well, the night was a little cooler. After a shower in the morning, minus mosquitoes we headed to the Mary River Roadhouse, Pine Creek then re-joined the Stuart Highway. I can only say Kakadu is a very special place.
Arrived at Edith Falls late in the afternoon which is in the Nitmuluk (Katherine Gorge) National Park. Doug decided to go for a swim in the lower waterhole, all gung ho, he only went in up to his knees and froze. I had told him but he
Kakadu - Obirr
Mabuyu teaches the young a lesson, as does all aboriginal art. They have no written language so all history and laws are passed down via paintings and elders.
. had to find out for himself. It is a very pretty campsite, in the morning we walked up the very rocky track to view the falls, not much water flowing at this time of the year but still spectacular, the track down was easier but still required extreme care, packed up and headed back to Katherine for fresh supplies. Woolworths would probably be one of the most busy supermarkets we have come across, understandable when you see the parking areas dedicated to "grey nomads". We thought the restrictions on buying alcohol in Katherine were extreme but they got worse the further south we travelled.
Replenished with food and wine, we drove to Nitmuluk National Park (Katherine Gorge), once again the Information Centre was wonderful, we did a 2 gorge boat trip next morning, looked through their cultural centre which was really informative and did the laundry. In the really early hours of both mornings we heard screaming noises, couldn't be anything but some sort of bird, it was not only ear piercing but unsettling. As we were leaving, I went into the Information Centre and asked the question of two girls, the aboriginal girl said is was a "Curlew",
Kakadu - Obirr
Short eared rock wallaby - the real thing not a painting their traditional belief is "it is a mother screaming to find and recover her lost child", well you could really relate to that. The rooster at Rifle Creek and the curlew at Katherine Gorge made for extremely early wake up's.
Back to Katherine, once again to replenish the larder we headed south, back to Daly Waters for more Barramundi, stocked up on wine and departed. Digressing, but on the way north before Daly Waters, we stopped at Elliott at the first store/service station, when I alighted I was approached by three female peacocks, well, I just had to go back for the leftover bread we had, shared that out and was engulfed by peacocks, went back in for more bread, distributed that and was overwhelmed by more coming from every direction. OK boys and girls, that's the end of the bread, well for the next couple of weeks, I stored the left-overs for our return journey, arrived back, one male peacock being entertained by other tourists, I enquired to the attendant, "Where are the Peacocks", there were 20 or so a couple of weeks ago, "oh, they go walk about, they will return when they are ready, but there
Kakadu - Obirr
Rock painting of a barramundi, actually looks like it is rising out of water are 35 of there, they come home to rest. I said I had already put the bread out on the grassed area, he replied they will certainly find it when they come home, so the peacock photo's were going north.
Well folks, that's about it for the moment, hope to catch up soon.
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Andrew and Mim Hopkins
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for home!! Surprised us for Fathers Day. Love and safe trip. Andrew and Mim