Romantic Riomaggiore

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At 9:50am we were bound for Italy. We arrived in Ventimiglia and awaited for our connection to Riomaggiore. Now our ride to Riomaggiore was the first one we were to board where we didn't have a ticket using only our Rail Pass. I have to admit I was terrified doing this, as all of our other rides have had a reservation which means a ticket in my hand. My brother kept reminding me that we can just hop on a Regional train using our pass with the addendum, "but if it's one you need a reservation for they will fine you!". So needless to say I have been a bit anal about checking and double-checking everytime we get to a station and this remained status quo when we arrived in Ventimiglia. We waited in line where I was hoping to get the kind looking lady not the gruff-faced man (deja vu of a certain German Polezei). Murphy's Law or Coyne Luck we got the man! As we walked up I told him we were heading to Riomaggiore and showed him my pass. In a very jovial voice and bearing a broad smile he said, "You are going to Riomaggiore!" and printed out the time we were to catch the train and on which platform. Next I told him we wanted to go from Riomaggiore to Florence on May 30 and he graciously printed off all the trains we could take. He was one big teddy bear and I remembered why I love Italy so much. It is the people. They are so helpful and genuine, taking their time to help tourists in any way they can.

We boarded our train, sans ticket, and were off. This was a very long train ride, about 5 hours, not including the one from Nice. We settled into our seats with our backpacks beside us. It seemed forever before they came and asked for our ticket. I flashed my rail pass with trepidation and...he smiled and handed it back. He then asked where we were headed. When we said "Riomaggiore" he said, as he had told a young girl a couple seats ahead, that we would have to change trains in Sarnova. We were quite confused about this but he told us he would tell us where to go.

This regional train was quite the experience. The trains are much newer then they were 7 years ago and no burly Italian Police asked to see our passports. I'm pretty sure every high school student in the area has a free pass as they kept boarding and then getting off a few stops later on their way home from school. We encountered a collection of people who, laden with bags, would board the train and then try to avoid the ticketmaster. We saw numerous groups kicked off, only to reboard onto a different car. We stopped in every little town but throughout the journey we were given the gift of exquisite scenery, the Mediterranean on one side and hilly terrain dotted with colourful houses and towns. We soon arrived at the station where everyone got off. We disembarked with the young girl who also was told she was to change trains. We just stood there on the platform and true to his word, the ticket master came rushing over to us and indicated which train we were to take. Again, that little bit extra to help travellers makes all the difference in the world.

We arrived to the underground station and walked through the mosaic-clad walls to the picturesque town of Riomaggiore. It was just as I remembered it and my skin tingled with anticipation of 3 days in this beautiful place. We found our hotel without any problem but the door was locked. I pressed the button that said, "English" but no one answered. We stood there, slightly confused when the lady who owns the store beside the hotel came to our aid. She tried to get them to answer the buzzer and when nothing happened had her husband call them. Sylvie came right down and lead us up 3 steep flights to our room (not an easy task with our backpacks). He was exceptionally kind and we are thrilled with this place. We had originally booked up the street but had read some negative reviews of recent so changed to this one. It comes complete with an expresso machine, kettle and wide selection of teas, dishes, cutlery and a fridge, not to mention HUGE bath towels!!! We signed the papers and bid "ciao" to Sylvie. After unpacking a bit we set out to see Riomaggiore. The best part for me was seeing Curtis' reaction to this incredible place and I was not disappointed. The look on his face was worth the long train ride and worry about rail pass fiascos. There are lots of people here and the street is lined with small shops and restaurants. We stopped at a place where we ordered a focaccia pizza and then we headed to the little market where 7 years ago I had my first taste of pesto. The elderly man who had given me my sample was still there and I excitedly purchased a container of his freshly made pesto to top off our pizza. We headed back to our room and slathered it on, savouring every bite. After a long day we fell into our bed, exhausted.

Saturday morning dawned brilliant blue skies and sunshine. We loaded up our laundry and headed down to the laundromat. I don't think we could go much longer before Curtis' socks began walking on their own! We loaded up two machines and came away with slightly damp clothes that I then hung on the clothesline outside of our window, matching the myriad of clothes hanging along the street. While my husband was out looking for something for breakfast he returned with a bouquet of carnations for me. What a wonderful man! We then packed up our backpack and headed out for a hike.

Cinque Terre has a path that links the 5 villages, however due to recent landslides many sections of these remain closed. We were quite disappointed but remembering the devastation that occurred here in 2011 it was clear that the landslides were very dangerous. The tourist office told Curtis that we could take Route 3 which heads out of Riomaggiore and up to the very top of the mountain where we could enjoy a view of all 5 villages. We began our climb. Oh my gosh! About 1/4 of the way I was wishing I had a donkey to ride. We seemed to climb forever! We came across Italians working in their terraced gardens and we puffed out, "Bonjourno". At various intervals of this path there are shrines dedicated to saints. In my opinion I think they were put there to commemorate those who died during the ascent and I was pretty sure I was going to have one dedicated to me! We finally came to the top and it was worth every drop of sweat, curse word, and stumble over loose stones! As we gazed out over the pristine blue Mediterranean we picked out the 5 villages in the distance. After enjoying a snack we then took a staircase/path that we had seen others come up. Wow, it was quite the trek down, but again, the view that unfolded before us was breathtaking. We finally made it down to the highway and Curtis took one look at my face and knew we were walking on the road back to the village. Not a mistake for sure. From the winding road the views were even better! On our way down we stopped at a busy little restaurant on a cliff and had a drink and brioche with nutella. We made our way down the switchbacks and into Riomaggiore. We then headed up to the church that dates back to 1320 and upward to the walk that looks over the ocean. Our next encounter proves that I am my father's daughter. My dad is famous for being a magnet to people and we have enjoyed many laughs watching as he gets "accosted" by all kinds of interesting characters. As we walked down the path there was an elderly man sitting on the bench. He had a paper and pencil and a book on Roman Artifacts. He was wearing a blue wool coat, slippers and a sort of short version of a chef's hat. He stopped us and asked where we were from and we told him Canada. He then asked if we would like to sit and talk with him and he would tell us the places to see here. I couldn't say no and so there I sat for the next 10 minutes as he told us about the other villages to visit and the places to see here. He explained that tomorrow there would be a big procession through town for Palm Sunday. Then my new friend, Andrea, asked Curtis to take a picture of he and I. Next he wrote out his name and address and asked us to send him the picture. He wrote down our names and that we were from Ontario, Canada so that when the picture arrived he would remember who we were. I shook his hand and thanked him and next he asked for a kiss, "or was that asking too much?". What in the world does one do then? You let the old man kiss you on both cheeks and on your hand. He then told me I was beautiful and told Curtis he was a lucky man. He said that sometimes people don't realize what they have. We bid him farewell and I felt a little flutter in my heart knowing that maybe I brightened this man's day. Perhaps many don't stop to listen to him. I'm glad my parents raised me to respect and have compassion for others. Ten minutes out of my time may have made a huge difference to him.

Needing a snack, we stopped at Mamma Mia, a very busy establishment that serves seafood and chips, pizza, etc. I opted for a cardboard cone of calamari and fries while Curtis chose the mixed fish. Really happy with mine when I saw that his contained little battered fish who still had their eyes and I am pretty sure their insides were also a part of the delicacy. We then journeyed down to the water where we followed the path along the cliff to a rocky beach where sun worshippers lay on the uncomfortable rocks, people sat and read, hikers rested and people fished. The waves crashed into the shore forcefully and as the water was sucked back out the sound on the rocks was like the staccato bursts of fireworks. It was something we had never heard before.

At sunset we made our way back to the sea and watched as the blazing ball sunk down to the sea. The colours were magnificent on the water. What an amazing place to watch the sun settle down for the night. We took our time going back and when we came around the corner the town was just beginning to light up. This is an unimaginable sight, like a patchwork quilt of lights. In the distance we coulf see the lights of Monterosso dancing in the dark like fireflies. This is truly one of the most beautiful places and we love it here!

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Comments

[Kim]

WOW!
Your pictures look like post cards! Such beautiful country! AND I love your commentary of your daily treks! Enjoy!!