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Published: September 7th 2014
So after fitting knobbly tyres in Nayrn, set off for Yurts at Song kul, so up over 3250m top.
Essentially looking for CBT 'Bayrt' place, but there are about 6 different groups of Yurts, so I stayed at first one, about 500m from lake shore, "Would I like supper & breakfast" for 1000som or £10 approx.
So I had a Yurt one of 15, some for guests others for housekeeping, it had 4 steel beds and wood stove. Authentic wood structure, lattice on sides, with 60 odd wooden poles to support a wooden ring in the roof. Various covers pulled over structure, with layer of polythene to add a water proof layer. Various rugs add warmth and a nice feel. Supper was soup with 1 vertebrae of sheep in it, followed by grilled fish (with head and tail attached, bit bread, jam & very odd butter. While we ate the stove were lit in bedrooms, 2 other guests and a guide staying. After supper 8:30 'ish, suggested quick to bed while hut is warm (only one load wood in stove). Lights go out with generator about 9:30, no light & no heat = sleep.
Kurt and Gesha a retired couple from Germany were on guided tour of Kyrgyzstan, then going onto China through Torugart too, for a self lead tour before returning to Almaty by Train and a visit Uszbeckestan. Vladimir was their Kyrgyz guide, with a 4WD Mitsubishi van, very knowledgeble, which passes to use what to see.
Next morning was bit cold, omlete & bread for breakfast, the other guests left me my own. My horse aarrived just after 9am, brown with 4 legs etc, well I've not ridden for 40 years, the horse explained it was thirsty - so we went down to lake, then bit of visiting and a look from top of hill was enough for me. It did break into 2nd gear (trotting I think)
briefly.
Quiet afternoon, but site was a bit of a buzz, expecting 40 Israel girls driving jeeps, so 10 guest huts 4 beds/hut I was worried! Quickly the owner's daughters sorted things out, I was moved to bigger drafty hut with one bed and fewer rugs. Then the support crew arrives, so 'Desert Queen' trip was an all girls event, but 3 back
vehicles - team of 3 security, 2 support, a mechanic - all men, also a Kyrgyz guide. About 6pm 10 big 4WDs arrived (6 landcrusers, 3 Lexus & Mitsubishi, all luxury top range) , escorted in by 10 flag carrying horsemen, such a rush. Bit of Impromptu cultural dance, then local horse show, after which I was dragged off to a Vodka and Russian pork fat session, which I'm not good at it - must wait till they stop talking then down in one. Bit discussion football, was I from MI6 ?, then how top man drove one of Jeeps out - after it had been rolled, no glass with bent roof, it would still do 120kph !.
The generator failed, it would not run 15 bulbs, told them to take half bulbs out while we ate supper, swap bulbs to accommodation later, but they just cut wire = half bulbs, so some lights worked.
Much more windy night with a bit rain makes it very cold. Still cloudy & just 4°C in morning, so I left early before the 10 Jeeps blocked the 29 hairpins down the hill.
Travel up
to another Yurt on China border tomorrow, where Dmitry Should meet me. Then cross into China next day
9th Sept. Excited!
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Jeremyaroundtheworld
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I remember the toilet... This area is so peaceful, especially if you get to the hills above camp.
In Xinjiang, make sure you stop in Kuqa to enjoy some great barbecued lamb!