12th Stop - Budapest

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Ulm - Munich - Vienna - Budapest (Train)

20-25 August

Budapest is the most modest, gem of a European city, nestled quietly into the bends of the famous Danube River - nearer to its end. We did not know much of Hungary before arriving in Budapest, but this city is certainly open, warm and inviting enough for us to get to know it better. We had not heard much about this striking city apart from quiet reflections of fellow travellers whispering about something special - but still a bit of a secret.

The Hungarian language is not one you are likely to be remotely familiar with (unless, of course, you are of Hungarian origin). It is a very distant cousin of Finnish from when the Magyar tribes, migrating from across Asia, separated in the 9th century. The fact that their language has survived is a testament to the pride of the population in their Magyar tribal origins and Hungarian state; this was founded on Christmas day in the year 1000. Hungarians have held strongly to this language and their culture through the centuries, with what is often described as “a patriotic sorrow”. They held firm through over 150 years of Turkish invasion beginning in the early 16th century until the Austrian Hapsburgs helped to expel the Turks late in the 17th century. Subsequently, they then also decided to stay and rule over an Austro-Hungarian empire until WWII bought the Nazi occupation. The Russians finally expelled the Nazis, but then they too stayed and established the communist regime. Finally, in 1989 the Hungarians collectively exhaled and became a republic - joining the EU in 2004 and now are struggling for relevancy in the modern Europe.

There are cultural contributions of which the Magyar are very proud. A humble Hungarian discovered Vitamin C in a vegetable containing the highest known concentrations of it. The paprika (capsicum) is the national vegetable of Hungary and the source of the sauce for the ubiquitous goulash. Of other things Hungarian: Mr. Zwack, a pharmacist, was asked to concoct a remedy for the king who had overeaten. The King was so pleased with the combination of a large variety of herbs and spices mixed in alcohol, that he described it as, “unicum” (unique). To this day, this bitter beverage’s ingredients remain a family secret. Unicum is now widely sipped across Europe as an aperitif or digestive. It is a good idea to have some on standby for when you over indulge by eating a snack called langosh. This is a heart-stopper: made with sour cream and cheese piled atop of deep fried, yeasty dough.

The 4-hour guided walking tour was the best way to get our orientations in both the Pest and Buda parts of this city. Buda lies on the mountainous side of the Danube, on the opposite bank to Pest. We climb the hill through Buda with a view across the river to the Hungarian parliament building - one of the most spectacular domed structures in the world. After all of this walking, the best way to rejuvenate our weary bodies was in one of the ornate, thermal spring, bathhouses. We then sip the unicum, chase it with beer and eat spicy goulash. All this is for about half the cost of what it is elsewhere throughout Europe.

T

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Photos

Open Sanwiches in Budapest
"Life is like a box of sandwiches" (?!)

Comments

[Yetti]

Finally caught up
Hi Guys, Finally caught up with all the news, you both look great and having a good time. I will send you a full email later with everything that has been happening. And your Mum (Dallmer) is right this is so much better. Will email soon Love Oma, Adrie, Yetti and Melinda

[Mandy]

Nat and Pete
Hello Roaming Roaches, very impressed, your detailed accounts of activities are informative with a touch of humour (love it!). Nat and Pete are looking forward to seeing you both upon your return to London, Nat is getting a little home sick but I am sure it will pass quickly. I am excited even before I open your blogg, I love to hear of your adventures and that you guys are doing so well .... Uncle John sends his love and good wishes to you both!! Bye for now Mandy.