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Published: April 5th 2014
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Day 6/7 - Paro
We had an early start, trying to get the timings of the pass opening right. The only way back to Paro is the way we came, over the Docha La pass and through the roadworks.
After scrambled eggs for breakfast, and normal cornflakes with toast, we headed out towards the pass. We seemed to make good time, and hit the road works with only a 5 minute wait until they opened. As we approached the top of the pass, we spotted some monkeys, which we hadn't seen the day before. They seemed out of place somehow in Bhutan, and not really an animal you would associate with this type of country. Just before the top! there was another delay of 30minutes, but it really wasn't too bad. We got to listen to some Bhutanese modern music, which sounded to us like ancient music, and a definite candidate for the Eurovision Song Contest! It was interesting to see the enterprising locals who had made camp and fire and were selling hot brews and food in case you were there for some time. Going through it a second time didn't make it any less hairy, and as
we went over the top, a number of army trucks were coming the opposite way causing absolute chaos. Unfortunately, the weather was no better, so we didn't get to see the mountains. Once on the other side, the road conditions improved, and our aim was to reach Paro for lunch.
As we approached Paro, the road runs along side the airport, and a Druk Airlines plane was just coming into land. Once in Paro, we headed to our lunch stop, buffet, and this time the chicken curry had a definite kick to it, along with the bean soup that wasn't supposed to be spicy. The puras were good though, and it was mini bananas for dessert.
After lunch, our guide took us to a couple of small temples in Paro that were public ones- Chhoeten Lhakhang and Druk Choeding. It was a case of finding the caretaker at the first one again, and they climbing up some steps to get in. Druk Choeding was built in 1525 and contains a main statue of the Future Buddha, together with a collection of old Bhutanese weapons strapped to a pillar.
From here, we set off for the main Paro
Dzong, which dominates the skyline. Originally built in 1644 it was used to defend the country from invaders from Tibet. It survived an earthquake in 1897 and a fire in 1907, and like the one at Thimpu we had seen is now used by civil servant as offices. It is reached by crossing a wooden covered bridge, which is a reconstruction, the original having been washed away in a flood in 1969. Unusually, before we entered into the main courtyard, we were able to take pictures of some of the paintings, which were of the guardian protectors of the four directions. Once inside the vast courtyard, we went towards the main temple, which unusually, and slightly disappointingly was empty, not a monk insight! The paintings on the walls were all covered by cloths to protect them, and our guide pushed the to one side to allow us to see the paintings underneath.
Once we had visited the Dzong, that was our programme for the day complete. We took the opportunity to go into the town and do a bit of window shopping as there were quite a few handcraft shops.
Back at the hotel, we tried in vain
with the internet, but really had little success in getting a reliable and consistent connection. We sat in the bar area sampling the local brew, whilst the weather took a turn for the worse and it started to rain with real purpose. Once it had eased off enough, we scuttled to the room to change for dinner and ensure we had a coat and brolly in case it got any worse. dinner was an unusual affair, in a Hugh dining room, and only 8 guests and masses of food. It should be noted that the Shepherds Pie , although lacking in gravy, was tasty as were the veggie mo mo's.
After a good nights sleep, no stray dogs barking and keeping us wake, we had a leisurely 9.30 start to sightseeing. Our first destination was up the Paro Valley to Drukgyel Dzong, which presented more issues for the driver due to the programme of road widening that is taking place along here. The driver had oncoming vehicles, workers literally in the middle of the road, plus the odd horse, donkey and cow to deal with. The Dzong is a ruined fort built in 1649 by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal to
commemorate the victory of Bhutan over Tibetan invadors. It was destroyed by a butter lamp fire (think theres a theme here) in 1951, and there have been a few attempts at renovation, but nothing substantial, just a new roof to stop erosion.
On our way back to Paro, we stopped at Kyichu Lhakhang, one of Bhutans oldest and most beautiful temples. It is said it was built in 659 to pin down the foot of a giant ogress who was thwarting the establishment of Buddhism in Tibet. Additional buildings were added in 1839. Again we had to go and get a caretaker to open up the temple for us. The monk that came was actually a little more chatty than the others and forced Kathryn to partake of the holy water citing that it would be good for her croaky throat.
We then had a quick hour round the shops in Paro, before heading back to the hotel. Dinner was served to us, rather than buffet style, as there were not that many guests - spinach soup, sizzling chicken leg with veg, and chips that were soggy, cheesy mushrooms (bloody awful) and rice. Whilst it was ok, the
bag of Lays in the room later was much better. Strangely, they asked what time we wanted breakfast in the morning, must have been because they were expecting a rush!
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D MJ Binkley
Dave and Merry Jo Binkley
All too familiar
We enjoyed our time in Bhutan and this photo reminds us of the crazy roads we traveled. Thank for the memories.