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Published: September 21st 2013
Kashgar to Biskek
Kyrgyzstan Immigration and Customs Post 7 km from the Torugart Pass crossing.Kashgar to Bishkek
Tuesday 17 September:
Not much to report today. We left Kashgar early (07:30) for the long drive back to Tash Rabat (Yurt Camp) where we arrived at about 16:00 sans one bus and half the group. Olga and our driver Oleg just left to see if the others were in difficulty. At the camp we met up with a group of five Australians and New Zealanders. Based on information received at the border it’s going to be cold tonight. Last night at Tash Rabat it was minus 5
0 C.
The trip back was generally a reverse of last Friday with the exception of less traffic, including buses. There were only two or three that we saw and one of them was empty. The major change to the scenery was fresh snow scattered across the mountains and valleys. At the lower levels most had melted except for that in the shade, depressions, and on the lee side of the mountains. The wind was also quite fresh. All of the group was complaining about the cold. I didn’t really feel it till the sun disappeared.
At the various checkpoints and Immigration and
Kashgar to Biskek
My two new buddies in the Kyrgyz Immigration and Customs Service. No I'm not under arrest! Just a quite day at the office for the lads so they lightened up. Customs stations there was also a change in attitude (except for the Chinese who were their normal inscrutable selves). The Kyrgyzs were very friendly after all the formalities had been completed. The gate guard and Immigration guy came out and joined us, even letting us take their photo. Tanya, the other Aussie, had her photo taken with her standing between them. She was holding her local newspaper in her hands. Apparently the paper has a contest based on people holding or reading the paper in a foreign country.
That’s about it for now. More to follow.
Wednesday 18 September:
Late arrival of second bus explained – they had a rear tyre blowout at 100 kph. Several people on the bus said that the driver handled the blowout extremely well. Most of the journey today was retracing our steps to Naryn. Not much to report for that leg – saw the same scenery and things as previous. One unusual thing we did see was a young kid riding a horse dragging a “roller” behind. Turned out it was a roll of felt being compressed by rolling – part of the manufacturing process. After lunch we took
Kashgar to Biskek
Chinese road workers on the job in Kyrgyzstan - no safety barriers, no PPE,no flagmen. Wonder how many get wiped out! a side road to Song-Kol Lake.
This was a most interesting journey. We drove along a valley floor following the Naryn River as far as a small town called An-Tal. Then a side road to climb over the Moldo Tor Mountains to the lake. Moldo Tor means Wizard or Sorcerers Mountain - because of the shape of white peaks protruding above the swirling clouds. One stop was made on the section of the route in the valley – A Mausoleum built on the site of an old fort.
The story told to us was that the two main mausoleums were those of local heroes. Prior to 1854 a powerful Khanate was spreading its influence and attempted to take over the Kyrgyz people. To control the area they built a series of 34 forts. The rulers forced the Kyrgyz people to become Muslim. Eventually the people rebelled, during the rebellion the fort in question was destroyed by the two heroes, one of whom was killed. The mausoleum was constructed using the material from the fort. When the second guy died the mausoleum was extended to house him as well.
After the stop at the mausoleum we climbed a
Kashgar to Biskek
Whoops! Sorry for quality - quick shot out the window. low gradient road into a steep gorge eventually reaching a pass over a very winding road to the Moldu-Ashu Pass (3,345 m asl). The view from the pass was fantastic. From the top we were able to see most of the route up the pass – spectacular. There were also stunning views across the Naryn Valley to the mountain ranges to the south.
The geology of the route was extremely interesting. The road seemed to follow the boundary between sedimentary deposits and granitic intrusions. The sedimentary system was very complex with various angles of tilt of the same deposits, a number of small folds, and eventually a reverse of the angle of tilt. Once the granite deposits were seen it began to make sense. The granite intruded into the sedimentary deposit and forced the sedimentary deposits aside.
We arrived at the Yurt camp late at about 18:30 but had to wait until 20:00 for dinner as there were three separate groups staying at the camp. I thought the Yurt was more comfortable than the one at Tash-Rabat. Some of the others agreed – except Roberta, one of the Poms – a real bitch – nothing is ever right.
Kashgar to Biskek
How to make a complete Wally of yourself. Shaman Charlie and his band of merry dancers - Farewell(?) ceremony at Tash-Rabat Yurt Camp. Complain, complain, doesn’t listen then f***s up. She didn’t listen to instructions when leaving Uzbekistan and as a result got caught up with the bureaucracy and was taken to a small room. Now that got her bitching. Anyway back to the story. Whilst sitting here typing this I am listening to an obnoxious, loud mouthed Kiwi. Flo, our Kiwi, doesn’t like him – reckons he’s so far up himself. OK no more moans.
Dinner was excellent. Helen and Olga had phoned ahead and ordered a special meal for those that wanted it. We all did – BBQ fish. The fish was freshly caught from the lake and it was delicious. Olga said they called it “white fish”. Funny, I thought the meat had a slight pink colour to it. Then again it could have been the light.
Thursday 19 September:
We were kept warm all night by having a wood/coal fired heater in the Yurt. Some kind gentleman came and topped it up in the AM. Interesting the fire “lighters” were made from dried cow dung dipped in Kero.
Late start again today – we aren’t due to leave until after lunch. After breakfast
Kashgar to Biskek
The troops celebrating a successful ceremony. It must have been we had perfect weather for the rest of the day. we went for a walk. Some a longer walk than others. I went on the first leg which was a climb to a nearby hill. I’m glad I did all that exercise in the lead up to the trip. I was surprised how extremely well I did – I got to the top without a stop and I was one of the first there. Not bad at a height of over 3,400 metres.
The views from the hill were (dare I say it again) stunning. Great views across Song-Kul Lake to the surrounding mountains. On the plain around the south eastern shore of the lake I counted eight “nomadic” yurt camps. There were herds of horses, cattle and sheep moving across the plain or being driven to the lake for water.
On the reverse side of the hill (away from the lake) is a small collection of Petroglyphs. Although not as extensive as the last group we saw, they were interesting. Everyone was surprised when I put my compass near the glyphs and took my photos. One in particular complained. Anyway I didn’t have the compass down when others were taking photos. Once it was explained that the
Kashgar to Biskek
No I'm not getting on the bus unless I get the front seat back. compass was a scale – several others took advantage of the “scale”. Stewart, one of the Poms, stated that scales were normally a geological pick. He has a background in geology – described the geology of the pass in a very technical term – f***ed up.
After lunch we headed off again to Kochkor. We went through a higher pass (3446 metres asl) but not as spectacular. The road was more straight forward. Oleg took off down the pass like a formula one driver. Anyway we arrived in Kochkor at about 16:30, showered (our first in three days) and rested. Just before dinner some ladies from the town gave us a demonstration of how felt was made. Very interesting to watch as I thought the process was much longer than it was. Have a heap of pics of the process.
Friday 20 September:
Straight forward drive in the morning from the Lake to Bishkek. On the way we stopped for lunch supplies in a town called Tokmok. We then proceeded to a small town nearby to have lunch in comfort sitting at tables provided by a local ladies collective. It cost us 50 som each
Kashgar to Biskek
The final climb to the Moldu-Ashu Pass (3,345 m asl). but was worth the comfort. The lunch site was at an old archaeological complex – Baruna. The site consisted of a 25 metre high minaret (it was originally 45 metres high until an earthquake in mid 1500s), the remains of three mausoleums, a mound that is reputed to be the palace complex, a small museum, and several Bulbuls and rocks with petroglyphs on display in a field. The complex is surrounded on two sides by a near continuous mound which was the inner wall of the old city.
I climbed the mound, which was in fact two (one larger, one smaller). The smaller had a number of trenches dug in it. These are the result of archaeological excavations in the 1970s and 1980s. Sadly they are eroding away and collapsing as there was no back filling after the excavation was finished. Added to the problem of erosion is the high levels of foot (and possibly bike) traffic that crosses the mounds.
We climbed to the top of the tower via a narrow, winding staircase that was very steep. The steps were also rather high themselves. We learnt that it was one way traffic at any one time. The
Kashgar to Biskek
View from below the top of the pass looking across the Naryn Valley.
views from the top were fantastic in all directions. A pity that there was a dust haze obscuring the nearby mountains.
We arrived in Bishkek late arvo and went directly to the National Museum. The museum is in one of those late Soviet era building with a lot of marble facing. It was also split into two sections – the top floor dedicated to Kyrgyz culture – from Homo erectus to modern. The middle floor to the Soviet era. About an hour was spent in the museum.
Dinner that night was superb. A group of us went to a restaurant about 100 metres from our hotel. Not many people in the place which was very clean, including the kitchen which we went past on the way in. Even the toilet was very clean and had a western style throne – not a squat job. We then struck a problem, well two: one the waitress didn’t speak English and two the menu was in Russian. Luckily there were two British ladies on the tour who did. I had a simple meal – stroganoff with pureed potatoes (mashed tatters). I also shared a bottle of Moldavian wine –
Kashgar to Biskek
At the top of the pass. a Cab-Sav. The Poms thought it was excellent – I would have put it down as a less than $8 bottle back home. The other two at the table had a Merlot, which in my opinion was past its use by date. They thought it was great. Each to his own.
Saturday September 21:
The day of the NMRA Convention that I helped organize. Hope all went well. Had a great night’s sleep. When my head hit the pillow – bam. Didn’t stir till just after 06:00 today. The bed is very comfortable.
This morning those of us who came in from Uzbekistan did a walking tour of the city. Olga took us – she is very passionate about her country, culture and city. During the tour we had a treat and got to see something the others didn’t when on their tour. We were in the area in time to see the changing of the guard at the flag pole in the middle of the city. The drill was excellent, some of the Poms passed comment on the goose-stepping.
When we progressed with the tour we saw hundreds of kids in school groups
Kashgar to Biskek
Petroglyps t the top of the hill sans offending compass. doing various things: martial arts demos, traditional dancing etc. They were practicing for tomorrow which is the 135
th Anniversary of the establishment of modern Bishkek. Actually the correct day would be in April, and as its bloody freezing at that time of year everyone was happy to have it in September.
Free day in the arvo – I decided to take things easy. On the way to the city tour I found out that the Bishkek Railway Station is only one block from the hotel. At midday I walked down there and did a bit of photography. I suspected that there was a train due in as passengers were starting to arrive. I hung around for a while but left as I needed to get some Panadol for a tooth ache. Nothing major – its associated with my sinuses which are blocked. The problem is compounded by the changes in altitude form close to 4,000 metres to less than 2,000 metres.
On the way back to the hotel I went into a supermarket (to get some water and resupply of Panadol). It was a surprise (but shouldn’t have been). It was just like walking into a supermarket at
Kashgar to Biskek
At the top of the hill enjoying the view.
home except the product names were in Kyrgyz or Russian. Some were the same brands as at home. The different sections were the same: deli, meat, bred, etc, etc. There was even a grog shop which surprisingly had quite a good collection of good quality western spirits at a very good price. Now I’m not good at math’s but, 627 soms, with there being 50 soms to the dollar, equates to $12.54 – for a 750 mil bottle (Captain Morgan Jamaica Rum).
Will get this blog off – we have our farewell dinner this evening. Departure for the airport is at 01:00 in the bloody morning. The flight leaves at 03:55.
Catch you when I get to Istanbul.
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leanne
non-member comment
Hi from guymers
Charlie really enjoyed this blog and the photos - looks like they need a few bags of grass seed and some US irrigation to green the place up a bit. Those high passes are terrific for views - keep writing and enjoy Istanbul. L & G