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Sarajevo Academy of Fine Arts
Wouldn't that be a great place to study! Arriving in a capital city is never easy. Roads in generally tend to be freeways. I do try to keep away from them where possible. But, it's not always possible. And so, after what was over 20km of non-stop roadworks and single lane traffic it was almost a relief to see that car only sign. Yay! A little bit of space for me and the cars can do as they please without the feeling of guilt getting in the way. And the beauty of travelling in these countries is they don't care if you're on a bicycle on a road meant only for cars. No honking of horns. Nothing. Just maniacal driving.
It wasn't long before the cars only stretch of road changed to accommodate all other modes of transportation - buses, trams, trolleybuses, taxis, pedestrians and the lone silly cyclist on the road. Time to get on the 'bike path'. The closer to the city centre the more congested and it wasn't long before it was time to get off the bike and wheel it, and then not long after where there was not much room on the footpath to even manoeuvre myself around. Add to that the stares
Latinska Cuprija Ottoman Bridge
It was here that the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand and his wife occurred triggering the start of WW1. and immobility and well, it's almost gridlock. Not sure how people think I can move myself around them so swiftly and within a confined space. This bike and baggage weighs at least 40kg.
Anyway, I managed to get myself into the old town. Was trying (in vain) to read my map. Asking people where they thought this hostel was. No one knew. And then I asked a lovely, young American couple. They suggested another hostel, where they were staying - it was slightly cheaper and just as conveniently located. After a bit more of getting lost (going up a ridiculous incline only to come back down again, only having the hostel address number and not the name of the street (what was I thinking not asking that question!) I found it. F-I-N-A-L-L-Y. I was absolutely stuffed but thrilled that I could finally just stop. Going is exhausting. And so here I am. Still. Monday, my planned day to move on and yet there is no movement.
Sarajevo is a beautiful city although she and her people have endured so much in the recent past. I find it hard to imagine what life must have been like, the resilience
and sheer determination needed to make it through another day. But for so many people, over 11,000, it was not enough and there are countless plaques dotted around the city naming the individuals who died during the bitter conflict and many, many gravesites. It is heartbreaking. But now, after the war, there is some optimism too, and it lies more with the young people. Tourists are back in force; the pedestrianized Bascarsija is heaving with people and shops selling tacky trinkets, there are hotels and hostels it seems on every street corner and there is a general vibe that things are moving forward.
Architecturally, Sarajevo has it all. East meets west with Ottoman influenced buildings and mosques sitting alongside those built under the Austro-Hungarian rule. There are synagogues serving a very small Jewish community and Orthodox churches too. All within walking distance. But after a day of walking around the city (any city really) I'm done. So that was my Saturday. Walking, looking, done. No museums or galleries for me. Just didn't feel like it.
Yesterday, I had the extremely good fortune to have been invited to come along on a hike up in the hills behind Sarajevo
Lunch
Fresh yoghurt, cheese, savoury donuts, rakija. through a friend of a friend. It was a great combination of a spectacularly beautiful sunny day, the most exquisite scenery and a wonderfully congenial group of internationals who live and work here in Sarajevo, lead as it were by our most knowledgeable, funny and patient guide Fikret. An amazing day and one that will most definitely be a highlight of my trip here in the Balkans and will permanently be etched into my memory. Thank you to all involved especially to Andy (via Huw) who made it possible and Fikret who made it happen. I highly recommend going on a mountain tour with Fikret if you are ever in Sarajevo or indeed Bosnia -
www.bosnian-mountaintourism.com. Experiences are what makes memories and you can be assured of one with Fikret.
Today, my 'moving off' day am spending updating blog, uploading photos, sending emails, possibly writing a couple of postcards and general laziness. My body is telling me it's tired (and a bit stiff!). The tiredness may have had something to do with the Bosnian coffee and baklava in Bascarsija last night (that was for you Bruno ; ) which kept me awake. Coffee after 2pm is never a good
View down to Sarajevo
Rain on the opposite mountains. combination for me. Then again, it may also have had something to do with a group of Australians that are in the room next door. No matter how quiet people try to be (although I don't think they were trying really) they are appear deafening when you're trying to sleep. Anyway, it's a bit grey outside so I don't feel too bad about staying put. Might go in search of a hairdresser. We shall see. But tomorrow, it's definitely off Mostar bound via Konjic.
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Charlie
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Coffee and donuts
Looks like a diet of coffee, donuts and other pastries developing here. Good to see. And I am loving the take-it-easy attitude. Hope you're having heaps of fun. The Lollii is having a good time at B's but she is exhausting B with what has been described as bossy behaviour, endless play, a sneak into the house and under the bed and having Annie and Freddie wrapped around her little paw. Also she has been described as a huge tummy on four skinny legs. Thailand is laziness personified and involves no shortage of pastries either. Looking forward to you next instalment! Lots of love xxx