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My Bosnian Bike on the Road
Doesn't that basket just make it look like I've gone out for a lovely Sunday ride - and just kept going?The journey has well and truly commenced. I’ve managed to avoid the rain even though it has been raining, I’ve managed to get over a pass, andI’ve managed to get from A to B. Not bad me thinks for four days on the road. I’m inwardly rather pleased with progress and with my bicycle too. Tomorrow I will be in Sarajevo as I really didn’t want to push 98km today - not after a 10.45am start! When I awoke this morning in Travnik, a lovely provincial town which was in its heyday the administrative headquarters for the Ottoman rulers in Bosnia, it was to the sound of rain. No point really in hurrying out of the comfort of the motel. So I took my time, hence the late start. At least it’ll be a short ride tomorrow.
Just to backtrack… the ride out of Banja Luka was exquisite. What more could I ask for on my first day? The road skirted the Vrbas river through the Vrbas canyon. It was so beautiful I really had to pinch myself. Sheer rock walls on both sides, at times opening out to beautiful vistas of rolling hills, houses perched high above
on incredibly steep hills and people bent double tending their little plots of land at ridiculous inclines. At other times the road narrowed so much the canyon felt almost oppressive. Almost. Just a little sliver of sky and sheer rock walls on either side and always, the rushing of the water that is the river Vrbas. The World Rafting Championships were held here on the Vbras in 2009 so this is no gentle meandering river; it has some serious might.
A couple of detours off the main road saw me working the legs. These small side roads invariably go straight up. The idea was to see the monastery that was signposted. In the end I was happy to see the log church. Signage there was for both but distances none for either. Lunch was had in the peaceful grounds of the log church under the welcoming shade of an oak tree having by this stage given up on the monastery (for all I knew it was another 10km away). This little church in the equally little village was the perfect setting to observe the workings of the people (and animals) going about their day, all under a lovely blue
Krupa na Vrbasu
Water mills at the Vrbas. sky. I could have stayed there but well, there’s more places than the log church to see. And not far away, just a little of the main road, a quick downhill (!) to see the Krupa Vrbanas. I’m not sure what the translation for that is but there were some old water mills, thunderous fast flowing water and a lovely little cafe. I had stop to have a tea didn’t I?
No more dilly dallying though. It was back on the road Jajce bound. At the café they told me there was a motel along the way, Motel Love. Oh dear. What kind of motel was this going to be? As it turned out it was Motel Lav (pronounced Love) and Lav means lion. It’s also a beer. When I was shown my room I thought, hmmmm, a little bit simple but really who am I to pick and choose? So I took it. Its saving grace was the awesome view from my room which the blinds had initially blocked out. Wow. And really, simple is ok too. Just would have been nice to have been able to watch some Bosnian reality TV, or a gameshow. You know what
Motel Lav - View from my Room
What a gorgeous surprise to see this vista from my room! I’m like.
The following day was shorter, the skies darker but the scenery no less spectacular. The rock walls still beside me the river below. And at times, silence, except for the chippering of the blessed birds. The road provided an amazing view of the picturesque town of Jajce perched as it is on a hill with all its buildings clinging to its sides. I know it was just 30km and I felt a bit (not much) bad for calling a halt on things, but really, there was too much to see in Jajce to just let it go. And there’s always the issue of what to do with the bike even if you did want to go exploring. So I found the youth hostel, got myself a bed for the night (all to myself!) and headed out. The skies by this stage had cleared, the sun had come out and it was almost t-shirt weather. Right, first stop, with the bike, to the small Pliva lake, the most perfect location to eat some chocolate pancakes and watch the people on the paddle boats. Second stop, back to Jajce, drop off the bike and walk through the historic old
Roadside Carpet
Sometimes I fee like mother nature rolls out her red carpet. A beautiful band of poppies. town. Jajce really does have a lot to see for a little place – mosques, churches, a fortress and not to be outdone, a waterfall in the middle of town where the Pliva River meets the Vrbas. Stunning.
The following morning was a bright sunny one. I was awoken by the sounds of a market being set up on the grounds below and when I eventually got myself sorted to leave it was in full swing. There were Roma musicians, people inspecting all manner of things, people eating, people drinking coffee, people people watching. It was buzzing. And then if you got tired of all that you could also stare at the crazy tourist attempting to tie all her stuff down to that bicycle of hers. What on earth has she got in those bags and why? Yes, that thought has crossed my mind too, except I know what’s in there - can’t wait to use my tent and sleeping bag!
Now, I know why Mirko at Shimano shop was trying to sell me lights. Ofcourse! Where there’s rocks and rivers there’s also tunnels. Before you get alarmed (like I prematurely did) let me reassure you that these
Jajce
Jajce from the main road - a little town maybe but with a lot to see. tunnels are nothing like the kilometre long tunnels I went through on previous travels in Norway many, many (!!) years ago. No. I was all prepared with my deep breathing and making sure that there was no traffic behind me and as soon as I got in there I could see the light at the end. Sometimes things really aren’t as bad as they initially seem. It’s still not nice being in there with a truck coming the other way, or worse I think, a truck coming up behind. Anyway, they were all short and over and done with very quickly so really, all good. Just a little something I wasn’t prepared for.
The road to Travnik did offer some interesting things to see. For instance, a necropolis, only marked at the actual spot ie no forewarning. Necropolis is here, that’s it. Unless you were walking, or on a bike, or thought these great big rocks looked peculiar as you glanced momentarily out the car window, you would have no idea. Yay for moving slowly! Another show stopper for me was what appeared to be a little log in the middle of a vegetable plot. As I approached I
Jajce waterfall
Where the Pliva meets the Vrbas. noticed this was no log. Instead it was a bird of prey (me says eagle but think it was possibly a hawk). We eyed each other off, I pulled out the camera and he decided he wasn’t going to play. Up he went and in his talons a snake! He settled on a tree branch with the snake dangling like a piece of rope. Another wow moment my camera wasn’t able to capture.
The only other highlight for that day was making it over a pass which I was very pleased with. The gradient was obviously a very manageable 7%. Really, anything more than that I find a struggle. At the top of the pass (rubbish dump!) I met a couple of motorcyclists from Germany who told me that they had been on the road for 11 days and this was their first day of sunshine without rain. I considered myself very lucky. They also gave me a couple of energy bars. I’m sure there are more mountains to come where they will come in very handy.
So that night I settled in in Travnik staying in another comfortable motel, Motel Aba, where I got my fill of
Jajce Market Day
One view from my hostel window reality TV. But not before a little wander around town ofcourse. The main thoroughfare gets closed off to traffic, so around 7pm, it was full of people meandering along, children on bicycles, children on rollerblades, children everywhere. And everyone it seemed eating something – icecream, popcorn, burek.
The following morning, as I mentioned earlier, it was raining. So after a short stop at tourist info, coffee shop and bakery I headed back to the motel. The path took me past a window at which an elderly gentleman wearing a fez and sitting in a wheelchair was watching the world go by. I said hello. He said hello and asked if I was German. No. Australian but I can speak German. Then the usual questions; how long are you here, alone (??), with a bicycle (???) and then this, why do you have grey hair? Um, because I’m no spring chicken? Honestly, what do you say? I like my grey hair. It seems almost a sin to say this. Anyway, apart from the grey hair he thought maybe I would stay in Bosnia and find a nice Bosnian man to settle down with. He smiled, I smiled and
he gave me a little sweet to say goodbye. Maybe… Maybe not.
By the way, for those people who put comments up, thank you, although I’m not sure if you want me to publish them? It is a public blog which means your comments will be there for the world to see (!!) – F-O-R-E-V-E-R. You OK with this? Let me know won’t you.
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Charlie
non-member comment
Why do you have grey hair?
It is the eternal question. Sounds like you're having a great time. When I saw the title I figured it would be weather related. Glad that it is not! Neither I nor V are fussed about being famous on the net.