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We made an executive decision yesterday to bypass Montreal in favour of spending more time in Quebec City. Sadly we can't see everything we want to on this trip. It simply means we will come back one day with no timeframes or deadlines.
Today was an incredible day spent exploring Old Quebec City. But first, I must tell you about our arrival into this charming, magical and romantic place.
Ian navigated us into the city from Route 138. All was going very well until we were about one mile from our destination, the Champlain Hotel in Old Town. This is where some city planner (probably from Lethbridge AB) decided that traffic lights should hang horizontally, not vertically. Clearly he (come on, we all know it would be a "he") was not colourblind, as is Ian. So when Ian approached the first set of sideways lights, he almost sailed right through the intersection, coming to a sharp stop in the middle of it when I yelled red light in the intercom. Poor Ian, now flustered, and trying to simultaneously read the GPS, did the same thing a couple of blocks later, and yep, a third time. But wait. There's more.
To add insult to injury and hurt pride, we then went around a large roundabout twice before figuring out which exit to take, with tour buses and city buses in tow and all around. Deep breath everyone. Look, there's the tunnel through the fortress wall into Old Town, we are almost there. But wait. There's even more. We had no idea what to expect in Old Quebec City, particularly its narrow streets, many of them cobbled, mostly one way, three or more intersecting with one another at very sharp angles, and most with sharp inclines. Oh, and more horizontal lights. Oh, and do not enter signs. In french red and white. Crazy french drivers everywhere, impatiently trying to get home at the end of the work day. We were only half a mile now away from the hotel, and Ian inadvertently attempted to go up a one way street the wrong way. I stopped in the middle of the right way street, to wait for him to turn around amidst several cars around him. I had cars behind me honking, whom I waved past because if I carried on, Ian would never find me in the maze of streets. I
received several large gestures with arms and voices, in French, which was probably a good thing, as they manouevred around me, and if this wasn't all confusing enough, tourists watched on, AND some street person at the intersection was yelling at the top of his lungs at anyone who cared to listen. That would be me. What is he saying? Am I also going the wrong way? Is he yelling at Ian? OMG! So Ian gets turned around, and after riding around and up and down the same steep narrow streets one more time, we figured out how to get to the hotel, where - almost - but I didn't - drop the bike as I ride over the curb after backtracking the wrong way down this one way street because I am sure as heck not going all the way round again - to get into the alleyway tunnel to access the miniature parking lot at the back of the hotel. Brandy anyone?
The hotel was fantastic, very European with only 5 floors, and small everything. It definitely had the world's slowest elevator, although the classical music playing inside did much to sooth frayed nerves. Our room had
exposed brick walls, and overlooked residential apartments only 4 feet across the alleyway. They really should wash up that big pile of dishes in the sink. Tiled floors warmed with area rugs and brightly coloured furnishings made for a cozy, comfortable room on the 5th floor.
We had no expectations for our time in Quebec City, but all of them were exceeded. We kept forgetting we were in Canada, as it felt like we were in Europe. In particular, several areas reminded us of Barcelona - maybe not the architecture, but definitely the layout with the small streets and terraced stone buildings with iron balconies, narrow sidewalks, hilly bendy lanes and tunnels between some buildings leading into pretty enclaves of cozy apartments with flower-laden patios. Lots of white, small square-glass panelled windows shrouded on the inside with netting, or light cotton curtains. Every restaurant was quaint and inviting, making it impossible to pick one for lunch or dinner. From hotels to hostels to businesses to apartments, the architecture is fascinating and never tiring to look at. Your thoughts go from wanting to explore more to wanting to know more about the history to imagining what it would be like
to live here. We couldn't take in all the richness that this area has to offer, and it's difficult to fully and justly describe the charm and warmth you feel here. The vistas from the Fort St. Louis walls are breathtaking and you can see miles each direction along the St. Lawrence River. We wondered how the first settlers lived here, and how many battles were actually fought from the fort. Hundreds of canons remain embedded in the fortress walls, and the Citadel is now the second home of the Governor General of Canada. Boardwalks line the river below the grand Fairmont Louis hotel, impressive in its own right, again overlooking the river. We took the ferry across the river and back to see views of the historic district from the water. We walked around most of the day and still managed to find streets that we hadn't already seen. Shopping is good, and we had an hour of fun finding me a dress and shoes for the christening this weekend. Again, everyone spoke in english to us, and our overall impression is that Quebec City is a friendly, safe, fascinating, lively, welcoming place to be. I can't wait to
come back here.
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carol
non-member comment
Looks amazing
Hi you two so where are you off too tomorrow, we fly out at 12 40 am Thursday going to be a long 24hrs being up I can't sleep but I know Les will be sleeping before we take off....see you on the rock can't wait to see everyone. Looking forward to some fresh seafood as well..been awhile. In alberta we only get frozen...anyway see you on Saturday this will be the last time I touch base we head to calgary tomorrow late afternoon. If you need anything contact me in the morning or early pm. love yea safe travels xo Carol & Les ps. (got your tide you will need lots of it to freshin up ha ha xo )