Choeung Ek Killing Fields and Tuol Sleng S-21 Prison

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Well, things didn't quite go to plan when I awoke for my day trip on Sunday, vomiting and, well, you can imagine what else. Disappointedly, I cancelled my plans and alternated between bathroom trips and passing out on the bed. Eventually, I crashed out completely.

When I woke up, I decided I wasn't prepared to spend the whole day in my room, so I got ready, took an Imodium and headed out for a walk. I ended up at the Independence Monument, originally built in 1958 by Cambodian architect Vann Molyvann to celebrate Cambodia's independence from French rule, but which now also serves to commemorate the end of Cambodia's war.

After this, I wandered on towards the river, sweaty and drained, debating whether to visit the Royal Palace or not. When I eventually stumbled upon it, I decided I didn't want to go inside, so took a few photos of the exterior and hailed an tuk tuk to take me back to the guesthouse. Upon arrival, I reluctantly ordered a veggie soup and baguette, as well as a yummy fruit shake, them went up to my room to wash some clothes. I'm a real wild child, me.

On Monday, I was driven by tuk tuk to Choeung Ek killing fields, 15km south-west of Phnom Penh. It took about 45 minutes to get there, but I didn't mind despite the increasingly bad roads as we moved further and further south, and the constant onslaught of traffic. I found the journey somewhat relaxing, even when my tuk tuk driver turned onto a busy multi-laned road and proceeded to drive on the wrong side, forcing on-coming traffic to swerve around us. It seems there are no rules when it comes to driving here, and it's a wonder I haven't seen any road accidents yet.

Arriving at Choeung Ek, I paid $5 at the front gate and was given an audio headset pack and map, and sent on my way. Choeung Ek is just one of the many 'killing fields' scattered across Cambodia, where victims of Pol Pot's communist regime met their untimely deaths. During their rule (1975 - 1979), the Khmer Rouge were responsible for the deaths of between 2 - 3 million people (exact number disputed by various agencies), approximately 9,000 of whom were buried at Choeung Ek. Many of these people were first held, interrogated and tortured at the S-21 prison in Phnom Penh. Whilst many of the remains have been excavated, some still remain and are further unearthed during periods of heavy rainfall.

Choeung Ek had previously served as an orchard and Chinese cemetery, some gravestones of which still exist today. The audio commentary provided in-depth descriptions of each stop point's former use, such as the building that had formerly stood to store chemical substances, used not only to cover the smell of decaying bodies, but also to 'finish off' victims that had somehow survived previous execution attempts. At first, it was hard to imagine the atrocities that had taken place there. However, staring into a mass grave where the remains of 450 victims had been excavated, brought it home. It's hard to imagine how so many bodies could be packed into such a small area. Further on, I came across another mass grave that had previously contained 166 decapitated bodies. The description on the audio likened the initial perception of the graves to 'infected sores' where the ground bulged due to the bodily gases being released beneath.

The aforementioned graves are now covered by wooden roofs, but the majority are simply open pits, where allegedly, remains can still be seen. Personally, I didn't see any. There were many scraps of material scattered around though, which I believed to be the remains of victims' clothing.

Two significant trees were highlighted on the route, one of which was known as the 'Magic Tree'. The 'magic' came from its ability to hold high a loudspeaker blasting out various communist speeches and music, in order to drown out the screams and cries of those being executed. The second tree was the killing tree. Executioners used to take children and babies by their feet, and mercilessly beat them against it. It is now covered in colourful ribbons, presumably attached by visitors in remembrance of the innocent children brutally murdered there. The Khmer Rouge believed that "when you dig up the grass, you must remove even the roots." Simply put: they feared the children would grow up to avenge their parents' deaths.

Finally, I removed my shoes and entered the Memorial Stupa, which houses the skulls of approximately 5,000 men, women and children. They are set in glass cases, towering high up into the structure.

Returning to the tuk tuk, my understandable distressed state was somewhat lifted by the sight of three young boys playfully tormenting my tuk tuk driver. As I approached, they backed away, cautiously. Climbing in the tuk tuk, I offered them some bananas from the bunch I'd brought along to snack on. The first two took them and muttered their gratitude. The third one accepted the fruit with a look of disappointment, and then asked for what I assumed to be money. I shook my head, as my tuk tuk driver laughed and we pulled away. I looked back to see all three of them contentedly tucking into the bananas.

Next stop: Tuol Sleng, also known as the S-21 Prison. I'd previously read up on its history, but nothing could have prepared me for the disturbing presence I felt as I wandered around the various buildings where so many innocent people were imprisoned, interrogated and tortured. Many of the rooms remain as they did the day the Khmer Rouge fled, back in early 1979, and many of the detainee statistics, confessions and photo archives compiled during that time are now on public display. Prior to Pol Pot's regime, Tuol Sleng was a school, but in 1975, it was transformed into the S-21, run by Kang Keck Iev, aka Duch.

In keeping with Pol Pot's vision of an agrarian utopia, schools and factories were closed, and people were forced from their city lives to work in the countryside. Intellectuals and skilled workers were immediately killed, as were those in possession of modern technology, wristwatches and even glasses. Photos of Phnom Penh during the regime were displayed in the museum, and I was shocked at the stark difference between then and now. The streets of modern-day Phnom Penh are a frenzied array of tuk tuks, motorbikes, rickshaws, cars and people, but the photos show absolute desertion. It's hard to imagine Cambodia's capital city empty of it's hustle and bustle, and devoid of the smiles, laughter and chatter that fill the streets today.

In the torture rooms were metal-framed beds, with various tools placed on top. On the walls were photos of the tortures that took place. Outside, a frame which had been previously used by the school for PE purposes, was turned into a torture device, whereby victims were hung upside-down with their hands tide behind their backs until they passed out. They would then be dunked head-first into pots of filthy water, thus regaining consciousness. Other torture tools included a hand-clamp for removing finger-nails (the wound then being doused in alcohol), nipple clamps, a water-dunking tank, whips, poles, knives, and so on. Thoroughly disturbing stuff.

Moving on to the cells. These were simply small brick or wooden partitions thrown together within large former classrooms. The brick work was especially shoddy, showing the haste at which they were erected. Wandering through the prison, I stepped inside some of the cells, but made quick my exits as claustrophobia set in. The outside walkway areas were covered in barbed wire, apparently to prevent prisoners from jumping to their deaths.

Leaving Tuol Sleng, I stopped for a moment to pay respect to the final fourteen S-21 victims, whose graves are displayed on the grounds. During the ride back to the guesthouse, I reflected on what I'd seen and felt an overwhelming sense of sadness and disgust. How could anyone inflict such pain and suffering on a fellow human being? And how could such atrocities have gone on daily for four years? Sometimes up to 200 people per day. Absolutely disgusting!

The rest of my day was rather boring, purely spent lounging in the restaurant downstairs and packing for today's departure. My trip to the night market proved unsuccessful when I found it closed, so I bedded down for an early night.

This morning, after tucking into a healthy bowl of muesli, fresh fruit and yoghurt, I boarded my bus. Siem Reap, here I come!

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Photos

Choeung Ek Memorial
Containing more than 5,000 victims' skulls.

Tuol Sleng S-21 Prison
One of the many interrogation rooms.

S-21
Barbed wire was allegedly used to prevent prisoners from jumping to their deaths.

Comments

[My]

Love reading your blog!
After reading this. It reminded me of my visit to those places and your explanation of the feeling and history is exactly how I would have written it if I hadn't been too lazy. Lol. I really hope your safe, happy and eating lots of delicious SEA delicacies! I miss you and wish you a very very fun and safe and unforgettable travel! Love you!!