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Published: July 31st 2006
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Monte Alban the ancient Zapotec capital (500 BC > 950 AD)
The ruins of Mote Alban, located about 30 minutes by bus on a mountain top outside Oxaca City. It´s so long to Mexico City and off into central Mexico, Oxaca State....
Mexico City to Pueblo
Took a collectivo (VAN for 10 people) from Mexico City to Oxaca, via Pueblo. Mexico City to Oxaca (pronounced wohaka) is about 7 hours or 500 KM. This is where I met two Brits and a New Zealander (photos attached).
On the way, we did a short stop (2 hours) in Pueblo (pop 1.3 million, elevation 2162m) which is a very Spanish city. I mean they didn’t want independence from Spain when the rest of the country broke away.... even today they are a little estranged (snobby) apparently. This town was also a major base for the Catholic Church, with some 70++ churches used to convert the natives. Overall it was a nice clean town though, with some wonderful architecture and markets. The people were friendly....
The 'Cactus Museum'
We then moved on towards Oxaca City however did a detour and stopped at a cactus museum. This place was like something out of those old black and white cowboy movies.... with Cisco and Peso...OLA! At about 2600M, it was damn hot in the sun and very dry
Two Belgians in Mexico City!
I met these girls, G and Natalie in the backpackers in Mexico City! (basically desert). The cactus trees were growing like pine trees in a pine forest, they were everywhere. We learnt all sorts of things about the medicinal value of cactus however i seem to have forgotten most of that but can recall clearly how to make Tequila or Mezcal. They also managed to dig up some woolly mammoth bones believe it or not and various shellfish fossils (this place used to be under water) which were also part of the museum.
Oxaca City
With a population of about 260,000 at an elevation of 1550M, it was hot (30C+) during the day and cool (12C) during the evening/night. With lots of markets, churches (they are everywhere!) and more colonial Spanish architecture, it is a shame there was so much graffiti. Apparently due to the recent election issues, some of the locals thought it would be a good idea to write all over heritage buildings with their grievances (actually the Mexicans are a pretty emotional lot when it comes to politics, and rightly so when you read a little about the sordid political history of this country - scary). Anyway, they don’t really like tourists that much either, as some
Bussing it with two Brits and a KIWI!
How far can a KI-WI?? I met these guys on the bus from Mexico City. We hooked up for a few days for Pueblo and Oxaca... Oh and this was taken in the desert at a cactus museum (pardon the pun) of the graffiti said “gringo go home” (basically white people go home).
However i did try my first Pollo Mollo (pronounced poyo moyo) which is chicken (pollo) smothered in Mollo with Arizo (rice) and soft tortias. Now this Mollo sauce is really something... with a chocolate base mixed with various local herbs and spiced cooked in pork fat. Probably not #1 on the Heart Foundation list of 'good stuff to eat´ but wow, I really liked it. Sort of like spicy chocolate but not too sweet.
I would have to say that the highlight of my visit to Oxaca was the ancient city of Monte Alban, the capital of the mighty Zapotec civilisation. These ruins situation at about 2000M (500M above the city of Oxaca) were built by first levelling the top of a hill (we are talking an area of roughly 5 square KM of mountain top) the city was built to support a population of about 25,000 and the condition of the site is impressive (although some buildings have been restored). There were also a series of tombs (which we couldn't enter) and a wall of sculptures of the heads of the leaders of nearby cities
Pueblo City Centre
A historical building (a hotel) in Pueblo City. who had been captured and executed.....
After 2 days in Oxaca, I headed for Peurto Escondido
Puerto Escondido and Mazunte
The road to Puerto Escondido was very scenic. Seven hours in a VAN through windy undulating mountainous terrain….Sections of the road were very narrow, with what looked like 1000 ft drop-offs (that’s 333M for the younger viewers) and at some points there had been small land slides from the surrounding cliffs..... (which we had to dodge/swerve to avoid).
Located approx 250KM south east of Acapulco, Puerto Escondido (elevation, sea level, population 40,000) is like a miniature Phuket. The beaches (playas) of Escondido were okay….the main beach was quite polluted actually, however the eastern beaches were very clean. Unfortunately swimming is not allowed (there were signs etc DONT SWIM HERE!!) due to rips and tidal currents... (but surfing is okay).
I spent one night here, as it was way too touristy for me, so I took a local bus (with the farmers, chickens etc) to a small town further east (1.5 hours, by rattling bus) called Mazunte.
With a population of 450 people, no banks or tourist shops and a single secluded beach with
Pueblo City Square
A quaint spot right in the middle of Pueblo, surrounded by Cafes and Restaurants.... headlands at each end this place was like a slice of paradise. I managed to get a place up on the hill, so could overlook the beach.... swimming was pleasant and safe however it was damn hot, we are now talking humid and 35++ (a bit like KL actually). Apart from the beach, the highlight of this place was the food. Most of the places here have a small restaurant coupled with the accommodation. Well the chef where i was saying was really talented, (she was about 4 foot tall, indigenous Indian.... so size doesn’t matter when it comes to food) in particular, the seafood was delicious, Descardos ala Mexicana (fish fillet in a local Mexican style salsa).
The worst part of this leg was that i had to check out by 1pm and my bus to San Cristobel Dala Casas wasn’t due to depart until 7pm. So I ended up having to sip $1 USD (RM3.7) Sol, Victoria or Corona until 6pm accompanied by a cool ocean breeze, overlooking pristine beach…..OH WELL someone has to do it... (SIGH...).
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Tay
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Pollo Mollo, oh lala!
Many miles you have covered! The photos are fantastic and of course, the narration is first class. Hmmmm, Bill Bryson in making. Random House, be ready. Pollo Mollo sounds heavenly, you have got the recipes? Collect enough recipes, you might even become a chef! Will buy you dinner at Sandias at Damansara Height when you are back. Then, you can tell us if the Mexican food is authentic. (If you havent got an overdose by then) One thing for sure, SOl doesn't go for USD1 in Sandias. Again, well done, syabas.