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Published: October 1st 2012
Blame it on my Disney land experience of Cartagena but as I made my way along the Caribbean coast toward Venezuela, I was definitely in the mood for a more remote, tourist free type of experience. Palomino, a tiny undiscovered gem along the Caribbean coast was simply perfect, pristine beach, intense agate blue sea, fishermen and breathtaking view of the Sierra Nevada mountain chain from the beach. I can only be grateful that the locals met in Santa Marta shared this tip with me…What else, well, this is still off the road for most tourists so there was barely anyone and no infrastructure as such other than hammock and a few bungalows! Life sweet life… The “getting there” part
Surprisingly easy! One would expect that this type of place be a hard one to get to but no, for once, it was simple and straightforward. After a few days spent chilling out in Santa Marta, catching up with Edouard, off to the Santa Marta market we were. Yes to the market and no we didn’t have a sudden early morning shopping urge, but it is simply where you can catch one of the mini bus that run
to Tayrona park and then to Palomino.
A two hours ride (8000COP) that takes you further east from Santa Marta along the Caribbean sea on one side and the Sierra Nevada mountain range and jungle on the other, not bad for an early morning start!
A ride during which I got as well my first sight of local indigenous who live in the jungle of the Sierra Nevada, family of four or five squeezed on two seats, old men carrying its own machete & simple handmade clothing and pretty much the whole time smiling!
The closer we were getting from Palomino, the emptier the bus was getting and yes we were the last one to take off as we asked to be dropped at the end of the “village” (basically a few houses & grocery stores on both sides of the road), next to the “fereteria”(tool shop).
From there, we were back on foot along a dirt path & under a scorching sun, thinking pretty much the whole time about the swim we were going to have the minute we set foot on the beach…
And then here it was…after 20mn walking, the
Cooking time!
Palomino Beach, Colombiadirt trail turned into the perfect postcard sight…white sand, palm trees and Caribbean blue sea...did I say that it was my birthday? Already loving the way that day started!
We slowly made our way a bit further from the beach entrance, going toward the right side, until we reached the “Sirena”, an eco friendly type of hostel that rents hammock and bungalows along the beach. We had arrived and it didn’t take long for us to change to the swimsuit outfits and run to the water; pure happiness was in the air.
Olga, the manager of the Sirena in the absence of the owner, greeted us back with some freshly squeezed juice and replied with a smile when we told her we thought about staying one night only, before adding that most people tend to change their mind shortly after and she was right!
When the time stops…
Palomino with its slow pace & stunning setting, makes you just want to lie in an hammock and chill under the shadow while watching the sea, the fisherman coming back on board of colorful boats and the village kids running along the beach. Time
La Sirena
Palomino Beach, Colombia literally stops there…
That first afternoon, after a day spent going from the hammock to the sea for a swim and back to hammock (and you repeat that a few times and you have an idea of how intense the day was), a huge storm greeted us. Within minutes the full sky lighted up, the rain was pouring like it hadn’t been raining for months & the thunder was now covering the sound of the waves crashing on the beach. What a beautiful sight, one minute bright and sunny, the other grey and powerful…and I got to see my first “fire ball” when a lightning landed over the sea right in front of our eyes, the force of the thunder that immediately followed nearly got me out of the hammock, I wasn’t expected it!
As the evening came, the electricity didn’t come back so we ended up with a candlelit dinner by the beach, savoring delicious freshly caught fish on which you just need to squeeze a few tiny limes for it to be just perfect! Add to this some after dinner Medellin Rum and you get a fantastic birthday night in great company. Thanks go to Edouard
Chilling out...
Palomino Beach, Colombia for that and all the moments spent together afterwards further east along the coast.
The sun is our watch…so be it!
Places such as Palomino have this effect on you whereas you end up starting your day at 5.30 am, aka the minute the sun starts to rise…
Still not an early morning type of person, but a few smiles and the promise of a fresh cup of coffee followed by a beautiful sunrise get me out of the hammock instantly. And here we were together with Olga, the only three people on the entire beach, having coffee while watching the sun rise.
Opted to walk to the other end of the beach where Palomino tranquil river meets the sea. That was a bit of a late call, only managed to have a brief glimpse of the Sierra Nevada mountain range. Still was a nice walk and guess the two dogs of the Sirena had by now decided to become our private escort, those two cute puppies were literally following us everywhere!
The next morning, up once more at 5.30am and this time, headed right after the coffee to the same spot and
here it was… Behind us the sea and raising sun, in front of us, the river surrounded by lush vegetation and right behind the highest coastal mountain in the world, with two snows capped peaks at more than 5700 meters. Being surrounded by the sea, river, jungle and snow capped mountain range is something quite extraordinary. Now, I can definitely go for a second cup of coffee! Was I dreaming? By then the sun was up and the heat wave that slowly made its way in answered my question, I was very much awake and this amazing sight was very much real too!
So what else do you do in Palomino? Well, not much, and that is just perfect! Hammock sessions are interrupted only by dips into the sea, “excursion” to the town to do some shopping, cooking on open fire within the outdoor kitchen & chatting and laughing with the locals… An amazing two nights in a place that I hope will remain as it is now, pure, simple and free from any massive development.
Next:
going even further east toward a nearly no man lands, wasn’t planning to, but hearing about the Guajira, and its arid desert meeting the sea at the northest point of South America I simply could not say no…Back on the road! (that’s going to be a long journey!)
Travelers tips Transport: mini bus from Santa Marta market to Palomino, every 15-20 mn or so, two hours ride, 8'000 COP (ask to be droped by the Fereteria), then take the path that goes down to the sea
Accomodation: can only warmly recommend "La Sirena", fanstastic eco hostel and a welcome that make you want to never leave.
Don't miss: the sunset and sight of the Sierra Nevada mountain range, only visible when the sun rise.
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RENanDREW
Ren & Andrew
gorgeous photo :)