The Highlander


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Published: July 14th 2006
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Market Day in ChichicastenangoMarket Day in ChichicastenangoMarket Day in Chichicastenango

I gotta get me the sweet Mayan gtup and learn how to carry 40 lbs of masa on my head.
I'm in the Guatemalan highlands. I am not Sean Connery, although the beard is coming in nicely.

My guitar's new name is la ladronita ('batlan'). I'm psyched to have a useful time killer besides gemara. I'm not the go-go kid I was 7 years ago when I could party every night. Now I rest on the sabbath.

So yesterday I earned my diploma from my Spanish school and went to a cafe for nachos and beer and met 3 other teachers. My favorite, Maryesther, is a Canadian born to Venezuealan parents who is working as a teacher in Havana, Cuba. So I ask you, if you voluntarily chose to be a teacher in 3rd world country, what would you do with your free time? If you answered a) sit on a beach and drink, you'd be me. If you answered b) travel to Guatemala and teach kids with HIV 6 hours a day, you'd be right. Amazing. Just when the new gets you down, a heilege neshama proves that the highest heights of the noble human spirit are boundless.

Jhonathan was playing drums in the church so I joined Isai (he left after 20 minutes, I tell you
Me and mi madre HildaMe and mi madre HildaMe and mi madre Hilda

Hilda likes Heveinu Shalom Alecheim and makes some mean frijoles.
where later). This is a charismatic evangelical church, and wednesday is bible study day. So the Pastor gave a dvar torah that lasted 90 minutes, no breaks (fellow rabbis, take note of how easy WE have it.) He drashed the big J's 'Forgive them father for they know not what they do', and from my perspective he tied it to an act of great chesed in the final dying moments. I do love a good drash, even from the New Testament, I have to say.

So as was walking home Isai runs out of a bar and pulls me in. He's there with two girls from Iceland who have boyfriends and one keeps insulting America, Americans, and me in specific. Things devolved from there. Lets just say I may have insulted their lack of sun or anything compelling to do and their soulless slaughter of gentile whales. We did not hit it off.

I spent the night at the worlds most foul hotel, which I thought at the time was just a great bargain at 25 quetzales for the night ($3). Maybe you already knew this but if someone offers you a hotel room for three dollars, pass.

I hit the bus in the morning for Chichicastengo, a Qui'che mountain town with a big thursday mercado. I bought a huge beautiful hand made Mayan blanket for $28. Nothin else to do- when asking for the bus to a town where I could transfer to a bus to Panajachel I wound up in a great conversation with a guy named Julio Cesar and Mikaela, and they offered me a lift in the back of a pickup all the way, along with their weaving materials that they got in the market. So we weaved our way down the mountain slowly, and I had a great conversation with Julio about religion, immigration to the US, food (btw, I've already met 3 guatemaltecos who have worked illegally in the us) etc.

I'm sure my mom would be proud that I spoke so much spanish and appaulled that I did not utilize a safety restraint system.

Got a place (its nice, I learned my lesson and spent $6) - took a shower - played la ladronita - ate some fish. Goin out tonight, then the holy shabbos. Sorry if this was a bit long, but hey, I finally left Antigua.
Mark, Isai and AlexMark, Isai and AlexMark, Isai and Alex

Alex wanted me to smuggle him into the US in my rucksack. Isai did not go home with the evil Iceland chicks.
Keep sending the comments people, I love 'em.


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PanajachelPanajachel
Panajachel

Giant lake surrounded by three volcanoes. Sweet.


14th July 2006

Hamra and Shichra...
Rav Mark... As I am here in LA sweating and learning for the daf exam I came accross the many comments about brewing beer, and thought of you!! Was it not Rav Papa who said, "had I only been a brew master..." You are a great man who has taught me much... now go have a beer for me down there....

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