The Search for the LongNecks

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Bought a detailed map of the area and headed for the hills. North up to Mae Chang and then hang a left on the 1089 and the road starts to climb into the land of the hill tribes. Found lots of tourist buses stopping at Lorcha Village (Ban Lorcha) so stopped to check it out. Paid 80 Bht for ticket each to walk up into the village. 4 villagers in traditional dress gave a small welcome dance to each approaching tourist group. The map at the village entrance gave locations for a Blacksmith, Rice Pounding Hut and other points of interest, but understandably in the miserable drizzling rain, we only encountered a village of closed wooden huts. Everyone was sheltering from the weather (except the cute piglets).

The back of the ticket reads

“Through your support we will be able to replicate this project in other hill tribe villages and assist in the preservation of their endangered culture”

We had mixed feelings about whether we would want the project to be replicated to other villages where this ‘zoo’ like feeling of paying to look at the real existence of others, however it’s hard to judge in ignorance of the scheme, and after all, we had paid our money and gone to look, just like all the other tourist stepping of their buses, so it seems a bit hypocritical.

On the way out we spotted a village bank that only loans money to villagers, so they don’t have to go to outsiders for debt. You can only have an account with the bank if you are of the village tribe. Now that’s a really exclusive account. Eat your heart out, Coutts & co.

About 5km further up the road. We came to Yapa village and followed the track to find the village of the LongNecks. Before arriving at the village we were stopped at a hut and asked to pay 250 Bht each to enter. We balked at this. Sensing that we were being scammed as there were no official looking signs and the guy wore no uniform or had any tickets or documentation. Eventually we just left and never go to see Yapa village. Further along the same road we came to another hill tribe village and there we questioned a tour guide about these village ‘entrance fees’. We were advised that it is perfectly normal and can be up to 500Bht each. We entered this village and disappointingly found that it was merely a set of stalls selling hats, scarves, jewelry and the usual stuff with no actual village at all. Having said that, the LongNecks were very friendly whilst trying hard to sell their wares.

All in all, a day exploring the hill tribes was disappointing and commercial, however the Padaung tribe ringers were fascinating.

Driving the road numbered 1234 - easy to remember - is a must in this region as it snakes and winds through tea and coffee plantations back to Mae Chang amidst beautiful scenery. We stopped in Mae Salong amidst the hills of plantations and sampled some Ginseng Green tea. The town has much Chinese influence with red lanterns hanging everywhere and many beautiful tea sets on sale.

Back to our hotel in Chiang Rai, and as we passed the pool I spotted a large dead lizard in the middle of the pool - the pool of dead reptilia!

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Comments

[Chris Katabigrock]

Well done!
I enjoyed reading your Journals. A lot more interesting than our trip to Port Blair. Waiting for more! Chris

[Franco]

Long Neck Girl.
Wow, didn't know the custom of stretching necks still exists. Pictures of them were pretty, yet at the same time sad. I worry about their future and possible pain they may have to go through.