Machu Picchu. Lost city of the Incas

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I am writing these thoughts sat high above one the most incredible sights I have ever had the fortune to witness. I am at the Inti Punku 'Gate of the Sun' at 2500 mtrs high looking down below onto a sight that has bought a tear to my eye. The lost city of the Incas, Machu Picchu. 'the old mountain'. Today is up there with the best of my travels. My dive to the barrier reef, the mirror effect of Lake Wanaka the parachute jump at Mount Cook, South Island, New Zealand, standing naked under a huge waterfall in the mountains of Vietnam. What I am quietly looking at has quite literally blown me away. A village constructed on top of a mountain some 2400 mtrs above sea level, and a 400 mtrs from the valley floor below thousand of years ago by a race of people so advanced it is beyond my simple comprehension. It is already turning into a beautiful sunny day. Llamas are eating grass on the terracing, and the village is dominated by Wayna Picchu 'the wise mountain. The site has yet to open to the public and I am witnessing what an Inca man, woman or child would have witnessed when they stood where I am standing for the first time thousands of years in the past. What ghosts roam this place? I am quite simply lost for words. A very emotional moment. I think of my aunt Judith and that I have achieved this for her and that without her sagely advise I would not be here now experiencing a modern wonder of the world.

I have trekked for 4 days in sun and rain up and down 1:2 mountains to 4315 mtrs where it was hard to draw breath , my lungs as if they were on fire. I have had no shower or hair wash, the facilitles being so poor and hum a little, I have used some of the most disgusting toilets I have encountered on my South American travels wondering if I was on the stinka trail rather than the Inka Trail. I have lost sweat, blood and weight - I am one hole further in on my belt. I have been stung by a forest dweller and had to piss on myself and finally I have almost frozen to death in the sub zero Andean night temperatures.

I have followed the path the Incas would have taken thousands of years ago to get where I am now. I have earned the right to witness this unbelievable vista as have my fellow eighteen trekkers from across the globe, like Barbera from Colerado, aged 52 she twisted her ankle yesterday and in considerable pain but has made it. Josh and his wife Stella from Chicago with popped kneecap and broken big toe nail respectively. They are here. Regine, aged 62 with knees and fitness of someone half her age. She is her with her partner Kathleen. The always chirpy Robyn from Utah who is type 1 diabetic. She has walked here wired up to a belt-worn blood/ sugar analyser. Constantly pricking her finger to make sure her diabetes was under control and she would not put herself in danger, or us at risk of having to cope with a diabetic coma miles from civilization. Chris with his blistered feet, here with his buddy Lee. Mike and Gary, always a smile on his face keeping everyone amused as we sweated hard to achieve this goal.The experienced trekking family from Utah, they are here and rightly so. So is Charles and his delightful wife from Los Angeles. Olga from London and Sid from Sydney. I am informed that on average 20 people a day do not make it here and have to turn back. But we are all here and we have all earnt this moment. I salute you all.

So the day starts early and we all queue with the other Inca trail trekking groups at the control point some 6 km from MP waiting for 5.30am when it opens and we are allowed access. It reminds me of queuing at Alton Towers for the latest ride, or possibly Disneyland, though I have never been there. Except this is a queue for something far more amazing than that. I recall standing in a queue as a 10 yr old boy in 1972 outside the Natural History Museum in London with my mother, father and two younger brothers to see the Tutankhamun exhibition. The memories of that day flood back to me. A day I have never forgotten. Golden treasure of magificent intricate beauty.For the first time on this trek, relaxing on my waterproof poncho in the darkness waiting for the sun to rise in the East, I have butterflies in my stomoch as to what I am going to witness from a similar age many lifetimes ago.



Suddenly a cheer from those at the head of the queue and we are off. Destination - Inti Punku, access to the Machu Picchu site used by the Incas to do the same thousands of years ago. There is a spring in my step I have not had the entire trek. I am being swept away with the combined emotion of anticipation. My fellow fit Trekkers are surprised to see me. "Dave? Nice one man." says Gary.
Not even stopping to remove my outer jumper it is as if I am floating along with the others, catching their slip stream and riding their wake. Trying to look back on those 6km now I simply cannot remember it. Like driving a familiar route for the 10,000th time, it is just a blur.
We arrive at a steep set of steps thousands of years old. Gradient- straight up. I am with Mike and Gary and reach the steps first.
"See anything Dave?" asks Mike as I negotiate the tricky Inca steps.
"not sure" I replied " there is definately some form of construction at the top but it is hard to see what it is. Looks a bit 'gatey' but could anything"
The sound of cheers and congratulations from others at the top.
"This is it!" I called out as I reached the top and stepped through Inti Punka, the Gates of the Sun. People spontaneously hugging each other, high gives all round, smiles on faces as wide as the Grand Canyon.
A view of such majesty it is difficult to put into words. Any sort of description by my simple 1979 'O-level' grade B English Language qualification could not capture the emotion I was feeling at what I was witnessing. I took a few pictures but then put down my camera and soaked it all in. There was a real energy in the air and I wanted to savour every last drop.

We wandered down to the site. Machu Picchu, the lost city of the Incas

Discovered in 1911 by an American Hyran Bingham whilst on an expedition trying to trace the steps of the saviour of South America, Simon Bolivar!!!!
Can you imagine that. When I stood outside his house in London almost 4 months ago never would I have drempt that he would enter my travels at the conclusion of my trip. Hidden from view from the valley floor, tucvked into the side and on top of the mountain, it is no wonder the Spanish conquistadors never found the city.

Like most of South America, Machu Picchu had some tricks up its sleeve, but these were the ones that left me in complete awe. For Machu Picchu was the observatory of the Incas. All the gentle star gazing with Fred and his explanation of Orions Belt, the Southern Cross, the Seven Sisters etc falling into place.

Stood on top of the Temple of the Sun, and looking at the Gate of the Sun where we had been, determined the start of the summer solstice, when the sun and the gate were aligned. When the sun and a point on mountain were aligned 90 degrees north, the winter equinox. The mountain profile carved out of rock and placed strategically on the temple.

A rock with three steps carved into it placed under a huge rock set at 45 degrees under the temple. Once a year these three steps and the angle would line with Orions Belt, the star formation in the sky.

A cross aligning with the Southern Cross. A rock carved into a long diamond shape set into the ground. It's point correlating directly to north south east and west. But the southern cross is not due south, it is a few degrees off. How did the Incas work out true south from the rotation of the earth and moon around the sun and our place in the universe?.

For the last 4 days Fred had tried to convince us that Cusco was the centre if the universe, the river flooding from it through the Sacred Valley to Machu Picchu following the course in the sky of the milky way. It was too much to take in. A civilisation dating back to 1200AD and maybe thousand of years beyond the birth of christ capable of achieving all this. I was utter dumbfounded.

Fred our guide bought his last four days mutterings to a close at Machu Picchu. He also then revealed he has two masters degrees in Inca studies in Peru and was returning to University later in the month to complete a book. Crafty little man.
Wandering around Machu Picchu, the sheer engineering skills of setting the terracing for the food and plants, the construction skills of the builders, and the romantic eye of the architects. It was beautiful. It must have taken hundred of year to complete, the stone being dug out of the mountainside.

Some had chosen to climb the mountain dominating Machu Picchu for an extra $60. I am glad I didn't. I went with some others to the far high side of the site, the Inka bridge, sat down and soaked it all up like a sponge.

A truely incredible day and one that is up there with the best.

Thanks you Machu Picchu.

Before I sign off I end on a sad note. I returned from Machu Picchu to learn of the death of one of my early CID mentors Ken Colbeck. Taken far too young he was a great copper, and a kind man. He was known as the famous Ken Colbeck with his famous wallet, for once ,when out getting his lunch he challenged a shop lifter who stabbed Ken in the chest. Luckily it hit his wallet containing his badge. In the papers the following day holding his wallet high and proud the name stuck. I know the past few years had not been easy for him, but may you now rest in peace.God bless you Ken.

Goodnight all.

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Photos

Machu Picchu
utterlycompelling

View from Inti Punki
this photo cannot in anyway capture how I was feeling when I took it.

on the approach
last few meters of the Inca Trail

Llama in Machu picchu.
Natural grass cutter

Comments

[Lisa Colbeck]

This made me smile, Dad still had the picture hanging up that featured in the papers of him holding the knife!

[dave reynolds]

Thanks.
Just found this message. Sorry late reply. Your dad was a top man. I'm tramping around Colombia at the moment. Hi to you mum. Hugs. Dave.