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Published: February 26th 2012
New Zealand 7 –
Sunday 19 Feb 2012
More welcome sunshine greets us this morning. Had a good chat over breakfast with the Sheep farmer and a couple who turned up yesterday afternoon. These two had the tent to beat all tents; it unfolded into a five room bungalow with headroom, very smart. The down side is that it took an hour to put up.
We said our farewells, exchanged emails and headed north hoping by the day’s end we would be in striking distance of the Coromandel Peninsula. By now it was 23 deg, very warm to be stuck in the car but we pressed on.
From the site at Waiotahi Beach we took the scenic route through Whakatane and along the coast as much as we could passing the unfortunately named Te Puke and then in to Tauranga for petrol. We also badly needed to top up with some groceries so after Tauranga we found a Countdown Store in a small town called Bethlehem. Correct name wrong country! After spending another $100 on not a lot we carried on leaving the Bay of Plenty behind us. The scenery here was changing into pine forest with much of it laid bare due to the logging industry. We passed through Waihi and entered the C/Peninsula, the pacific on our right and the green Coromandel Range to our left. We checked out a small camp site in Onemana but were not impressed so we pressed on and eventually stopped for the night at Tairua. This place strongly resembles Falmouth its river and houses climbing the hill sides on both sides. Sue was still feeling crook so after reading the local Sunday paper i disappeared off for a stroll along the harbour beach. For the small part i have seen it’s a very nice little spot and very clean. As we have no internet on site, contrary to the sign nr the gate we are going to visit the cafe along the road which we are told is open until three in the morning, not that we shall be there that long.
Monday 20
th February.
No luck with the cafe last night as t was closed so on the advice of the camps owner we logged n to the server at the community Library next door. This was with limited success though so gave up.
Anyway we move on this morning further into the Coromandel Peninsula. We drive up the east coast tracking our way through sections of the C/Range heading for the tourist hot spot of Hot Water Beach. The attraction here is to dig a hole in the sand and immerse yourself in the hot spring water that slowly fills your excavation, just like a hot bath really! Anyway unlucky for us the place was packed with frantic swim wear clad trippers busy digging away leaving not a lot of room so as we don’t really like the crowds we slipped away to find another less crowded beach.
After checking out all the little bays along the coast we found an unmade road leading to Opito, a small beach at the end of a very winding road with some very large logging trucks on it. We survived the trucks, found the beach and spent an hour or so chilling out in the sun. As time was getting on we had to push on to find a camp site, the next nearest was at the town of Coromandel and what a nice site it was. Set at one end of the main high street that was once a Gold town. The site itself was probably the neatest we have stayed at and really well laid out, lots of ideas for the Marina, watch out Woolverstone!
We celebrated our arrival with a dip in the site pool then cooked our supper, Sirloin Steak on the outdoor BBQ, camping at its best.
Tuesday 21
st February
Today was again hot and sunny so hiking boots were put on and off we went for a tramp down to a nearby beach. Unfortunately 20mins into the walk we discovered this section of the coast had little if no sand, just volcanic rock and mud. We tracked back and picked up the car and headed north along the west coast scenic road looking in vain for sand. Along the way we called in to a nice hippy cafe and book shop that served the nicest Earl Grey Tea with added Lemon grass ever tasted. So nice i ordered the large pot that contained six cups! A very pleasant hour spent sipping and listening to jazz/ funk on the stereo.
We came to the point where we ran out of coastline on the west coast and would need to drive across to the east for some sand. No sooner had we set of across the hills that the tarmac road ran out and we hit the rough gravel and tight corners, Sue’s favourite. After half an hour we made it across and parked up in a field full of cattle in the middle of nowhere. A short walk over the dunes and we found a little piece of paradise. Approx 3 kl of golden sand, blue water and hot sun, and the best bit we shared it only two other people. We spent the afternoon swimming, reading, shell collecting and soaking up the sun, absolute bliss.
The trip back to site was not so bliss though. I continued driving the route along the gravel road which went on and on, at times very narrow and some very sharp corners around which would fly some mad Maori in their Cortina’s. On more than one occasion we thought we had made it back to civilisation when we found tarmac roads. Strangely these tarmac sections appeared in the small communities we passed miles from anywhere then immediately went back to gravel. I don’t understand why they don’t tarmac at the beginning of the roads a little at a time until they reach the opposite end. Anyway after much dust and a few swerves we made it back to the site ok.
Spent the evening with a bag of fish and chips and the laptop booking our first two nights in Fiji.
Wednesday 22 February 6.320.1 kl 21deg Showers / Warm
After a pleasant two nights in Coromandel we are moving on, hopefully getting as far as North Auckland. We take the winding coast road down to the town of Thames then head across the bottom of the Firth of Thames to Waitakaruru before turning north along the coast road up to Clevedon. When we reached Thames we stopped briefly for Petrol and to purchase a telescopic fishing rod for some rock fishing. The run up to Clevedon was through flat wet lands, very much like the Fens. This section is known as Sea Bird coast.
From Clevedon it was a short hop across to the route 1 m/way taking us up through the suburbs of Auckland and then out over the Harbour Bridge eventually stopping at Orewa for a camp site. Orewa sits approx 15 kl north east of the city on the edge of Whangaparaoa Bay. It was here i discovered we had a slow puncture in a rear tyre so the next hour was spent fitting the spare and locating the local Firestone depot for a repair in the morning.
Sue spent some time giving the rest of the car a tidy before sitting down to supper of cold meats and salad. The rest of the evening was spent watching TV and drinking some rather nice white wine.
Thursday 23rd February 6.576.9 kl
First job today was to get the tyre fixed. We found the Firestone depot easily and had the job sorted in reckon time. Strangely no puncture was found and the assumption was the tyre rolled off the rim when we were off roading, i didn’t own up to this though.
Now having four good wheels we set of north on route 1 also known as the Twin Coast Highway. We joined the 1 at Dome Valley and took the route up to Brynderwyn where we turned off onto the 12 across to the West coast. On the way across we stopped at Matakohe to have a look around the Kauri Museum, Kauri is a tree that grows to enormous sizes here in NZ and when the early European settlers arrived the Kauri Forests where cut down nearly to extension mainly due to ship building. The Museum was well worth the visit with some great old black and photos and replica saw mills ect.
As we came out it had started to rain and the further we pushed North the heavier it became eventually turning into a torrential downpour, this was made even worse by being stuck behind a large truck and trailer with no way past on the winding road. Eventually we reached the town Dargaville where we had planned to stop for the night but as it was still pouring down and didn’t fancy putting the tent up in the wet we pushed on to the small community of Opononi situated at the mouth of Hokianga Harbour hoping the afternoon would dry up.
On the way the route took us through large areas of Kauri Forest and also gave us the chance to view the biggest Kauri Tree standing. It was enormous,
We arrived at the site in Opononi and set up camp overlooking the Harbour and the steep sandunes on the opposite shore. We were told to keep an eye out for Dolphins and Orca’s swimming and hunting within the harbour. Alas during our brief stay we didn’t see any.
The rain had at last stopped to allow an evening walk along the beach and to admire the stunning colours of the sky as the sun set for the day.
Friday 24
th February
Up in good time today and left site at 09.30 calling into the Information Centre as we left the village. I wanted some info on a short ferry crossing we have to take as a short cut across the Harbour / Estuary. While here i also phoned and extended our car hire for a further four days which will take us up to our departure day of 4 March.
With ferry times in hand we drove to the small quay side in Rawene and settled down with a coffee in the local tea room to await its arrival. Half an hour later it came along side and we boarded with 24 other vehicles, mostly driven by local Maori. 15 mins later we drove off at Kohukohu and made our way Ahipara, the Southern start of 90 mile beach. Here we stayed for the afternoon, spending our time fishing of the rocks, with little success though.
The latter part of the afternoon we drove across to Whatuwhiwhi Top 10 camp site. This it set on the Karikari Peninsula on the edge of Doubtless Bay, a very nice position. Here we shared the site with some Kayak fishing Kiwi’s from Auckland here for the weekend for a fishing competition, i took the opportunity to get some advice and tips.
The evening was spent watching the first game of the Premier Rugby season, Auckland v Christchurch which was entertaining.
Saturday 25
th Feb.
The day today was spent soaking up the sun and beach fishing. First we called into the local tackle shop and bought bait and some hooks then as it was really blowing hard went to seek a sheltered beach to try are luck on. We found a lovely spot and shared it with half a dozen others like minded folk.
I actually managed to catch two small fish which for me is successful. After a swim we arrived back at camp for a shower then headed down to the local beach to try our luck there. More success followed with me catching two more one of which i kept for supper the other going back to grow bigger.
With my luck now in i continued to fish and with the rod propped against my chair i stood and admired the surroundings, then all of a sudden the rod was pulled of the chair and started to be dragged down the beach, i picked it up and let the brake off the reel to let whatever was on the hook to run. With little line left i set the brake and started to play the beast, this only lasted for a few minutes before then line snapped and my mystery catch disappeared with hooks, weight and line. Whatever was it, no not a tall Fishermans story but apparently a large Stingray that swims that particular beach. The one that got away! Not sure what i would have done if i landed it though.
Sunday 26
th February
Today we are going on a bus tour up to Cape Reinga then back along the 90 mile beach. We were picked up at 08.30 from the nearby village of Mangonui and were taken first of all to a Gum diggers park, site of an ancient Kauri forest that was buried approx 150.000 years ago for a look around, after half an hour we joined the main route to the Cape and an hour and twenty minutes later we arrived and it was breathtaking. Cape Reinga is the point where the Tasman Sea meets the Pacific. Today the seas were calm but impressive all the same, a deep blue and turquoise framed by a blue sky and golden sands. We were able to walk down to the lighthouse and spent a while just sitting and looking trying to take in the view.
Next stop was at the Northern end of 90 mile beach where we were given a boogie board each and marched to the top of an enormous sandune then flat on our stomachs we pushed of down the slope at great speed using your feet as brakes. At the bottom was a shallow stream which we all hit at speed, aquaplaning our way to a stop after 30 or so meters. Sue actually took the prize for greatest distance and loudest scream and i was applauded for the most spectacular spill. Great fun and fully recommended.
The drive back along the beach was great and lasted for approx 60 kl where we joined the tarmac again and briefly called in to another Kauri workshop for a look round. Inside was the most spectacular spiral staircase cut inside a complete trunk of a tree approx 50.000 years old. A real work of art. Can’t wait to get my chainsaw out back home.
And apart from cooking an Omelette supper on our return and having a beer that was our day of adventure. A really good day.
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anne elise
non-member comment
Hi Jon and Sue Sliding down sand dunes? It is something we did as kids on snowy hills. I would not venture a steep hill again. And there you are thoroughly enjoying your adventures and each other amd doing all sorts of things of which I am good as sure that you would nog have done that before you went to see the globe. Great fun all of that I am sure. Actually I am glas you missed the giant sting ray. They are quite dangerous Coromondel has the same feeling as Paradise.enjoy yourselves over there. Love from us all over here.