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Published: January 22nd 2012
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Onward. But first an early alarm goes off on New Years day (cruel) set by my husband who was determined to get an early morning second look at the Dingle Peninsula. The loop isn't that long and hey, it wasn't raining, so what the hell. Jeff wasn't having any of it. He thinks we're dum.
The second time around was worthwhile as there were actually a few views.
Back at the B&B we had a fabulous breakfast, threw our crap in the Ka and pointed north towards Doolin. Rumor was that there was good pub music to be had there and it's just a few miles down the road from the Cliffs of Moher. By god, we were going to see SOMETHING on the List.
The nice gentleman that got us to the start of the parade suggested we go up and over Connor Pass on the way so that is what we decided to do. Gone would be the chance to check out the South Pole Inn which made me a bit sad, but at 10am on New Years Day, a pint to honor Tom Crean sounded a bit much (remember, I'm old now).
It was
a pretty drive and we stopped at the pass to admire an actual view. Jeff proved that he could jump over our rental car it was so tiny. He didn't even break any bones. Good start to the day.
The drive to Doolin includes a quick ferry ride across the Shannon estuary. We wheeled the bitty car onto the empty ferry and admired the rainbows as little squalls passed through. Rainbows are about as common as sheep in Ireland it turns out. Leprechauns
everywhere. The icy wind tried to blow us off the boat (we're getting good at appreciating gravity and hand rails) as we motored to the north. Should have just put a sail on that thing and saved a little diesel.
Along the way we saw another way too small rental car pulled over and some poor lady puking out the passenger side. Wonder if she was on our flight? That's just the Gardiners spreading holiday cheer to an island that really doesn't need another population wipe-out.
We reached the Cliffs of Moher which just about every last human being seems to have visited at one point or another - today was our day to
check it out. Maybe. We debated quickly whether we should save it for the morning or check it out then...the debate centered on the fact that it was 1. late in the afternoon 2. shitting horrific sideways rain and 3. blowing at least 40mph. For some reason we decided to hand over our Euros and go for it, parked the little barfmobile and suited up like we were going to conquer Everest.
As we headed up the walkway bracing into the wind and rain, slowly the rain tapered off leaving only wind and a spectacular sunset display. Man it was beautiful. As we walked through a particularly impressive gauntlet of wind (note the upside-down waterfall in the
"> video - where the hell else do you see water flying towards the sky?) I looked around and noted that we were the only people in rain gear...everyone else was perfectly pretty in their always-coiffed Europeanwear. I decided that I was the most comfortable and most ridiculously dressed person there. Is turning 40 when you start wearing purple and red together and not caring?
One sweet very pretty and stylish girl said 'man, you're smart to be in rain gear'.
the hard-fought fields of the Dingle Peninsula
worthless soil enriched with seaweed and sand to grow potatoes We took a few pictures and followed Jeff up the walkway to the south and got to the point where it says 'don't go any further because it's private property and oh yeah, you'll probably die' and for the first time in our lives actually took the advice. The wind gusts were crazy, the muddy path along the edge of the 200' cliffs a little too close to the edge, and hey, my little brother was out there somewhere hopefully not dead. Good enough, he'd get pictures.
We lingered as the sun sank and then headed towards Doolin. Not surprisingly in the 20 minutes it took to get there the weather went totally to hell but the drive was pretty nonetheless and the surf crashing into the little cove by Doolin was ferocious and impressive. Doolin itself was hard to pick out from the hillside above, just a speck of a place but thanks to the fading light and crap visibility it was hard to tell anything specific.
Our little GPS led us straight to the B&B and we were greeted by the owner who was chatting with the Australian couple also staying there. As we shook off
the frozen rain and wondered yet again how people survived this weather living in rock huts the owner handed us fabulous Irish coffees. I could have downed the Homer Simpson 200 oz version of THAT bit of loveliness. That's when I realized, 'Oh, THAT'S how they survived.' Tasty.
We once again dropped our gear and headed out to the infamous O'Connor's pub where every night the music of local musicians joined by those passing through makes you wonder once again why more fabulous stuff like this doesn't happen in the States.
Jeanne
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Cliffs of Moher
Hi, guys. I have been to the Cliffs of Moher twice within the last ten years--first time, it was very clear, lovely weather (this is October, mind you!), and we had great views all around! The second time it was rainy and windy and we didn't get to see much at all. It's well worth the time, however, whenever you see it, I think. I'm glad you got some good (and interesting) photos!