Uros Islands and Taquile

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After a good Saturday night out in Puno we got up early on Sunday morning to go out on a boat to the islands on Lake Titicaca. The lake is vast and only partially in Peru - the rest is in Bolivia. It's the highest navigable lake in the world, 3812 metres above sea level. It's also South Americas largest freshwater lake, 8372 square kilometres.

Under a perfectly blue sky we set off for the Uros Islands, which are unique man-made floating islands constructed from reeds. People live on them, and some even have schools. When we stepped off the boat onto the first island it seemed very strange - the reeds felt very springy and the islands were gently swaying in the water. I still don't understand how they support the weight of the wooden houses, cattle and all the people who live on them, and why they don't just float away. I went up a very wobbly ladder to a high wooden viewing platform that felt as if it was going to fall into the lake at any moment. It was good to get my feet back on dry reeds!

The next stop was Taquile Island, this time a 'proper' natural island. There are no cars on the island and it's a very tranquil and beautiful place. We stayed in rustic but comfortable accommodation, with no electricity in the rooms, although a candle was supplied. My room looked straight out on to the lake. The toilets had a 'manual' flush system - just fill a bucket with water and pour it in when you've finished! We walked to the only town on the island (really just a square with a few small shops and a couple of very basic restaurants) and then to the highest point on the island with great views of the lake. We watched the sun set, after which it got dark and cold very quickly and we had to return to the accommodation. It was only about 7pm but everything was closed. There was a small restaurant next to where we were staying and the owner very kindly opened up for us so that we could have a few drinks and play cards. They are very trusting people - we were left on our own and told we could help ourselves to bottles of beer, as long as we kept a record of what we had taken and locked up when we left! I don't think there are many places in the UK that would do that! After a few games of pontoon (we played for teabags!) we locked up and went to bed by candlelight.

Next day we got up, had pancakes for breakfast at the restaurant and went on another long walk across the island (well it's good practice for the Inca Trail). We came to a sandy beach, which seemed strange as we were on a lake. We had the beach to ourselves and sat on the rocks in the sun and paddled in the lake. After returning to the town for lunch we went to the boat and back to Puno.

Taquile has to be one of the highlights of this trip so far for me. It's so isolated from the mainland, it has a beautiful setting on the lake and the people are so friendly, always greeting you with a "buenos dias" when you pass them on the trails and in the town. All the people dress in their colourful traditional costumes and work on their knitted handicrafts even when they are walking along! The sky was so clear and I don't think I've ever seen so many stars at night. Everywhere there are Inca-style terraces, sheep, bulls and a few llamas, but no dogs at all (which makes it even more peaceful). It's a unique place, completely different from anywhere I've been before, and completely unspoilt by commercialism.

I'm now in Cusco getting ready to walk the Inca Trail.

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Comments

[Bangert women:Judy, Margaret, Anny]

Comment from Mum and Aunties
Lovely to read and see your journeys. Thinking of joining you! wish we could. Read from beginning to the end, Paul and loved it - Love from Mum in Hexham.