New Zealand-Week One

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New Zealand – Wk 1 - Waitaki Camping Park heading South thereafter.....Monday 9^th Jan.

Another comfortable night was had under canvass and we awoke this morning to a fine sunny day. After a trip to the wash rooms, breakfast we were ready for a hike down the lane to the sea. It’s only a trip of approx 800 mts along a made up farm track passing hundreds of sheep and dairy cows happily grazing along the way. Currently in this area there is actually at the moment a severe drought warning and all the farmers are using sprinklers everywhere to green up the grass for grazing. These sprinklers range from a garden hose up to some enormous irrigation arms, 200+ mts in length. Anyone caught at their homes using excess water, they would be in deep trouble. Again in some area’s the local authorities have been round and confiscated hose pipes ect.





Anyway we made it to the beach which is similar to Orford Ness apart from the stone/ shingle pieces are all flat and round and fit together so tightly they form a firm footing, unlike UK shingle where you take one forward and two back. We walked along until we came to the mouth of the Waitaki River, extremely fast flowing and we are told a great fishing ground for very large Salmon. The season for these fish is apparently best in early Feb when they arrive from seaward and head up stream to sporn. Specimens of 30lbs plus are a regular site, especially on the BBQ.

We sat and watched a couple of guys trying their luck for a while, with no success, then made our way back to camp.

Following an early lunch, quick read then snooze we hopped in the car and drove to Oamaru Town.

One or two errands were completed, change travellers cheques, treat ourselves to two camp chairs, both fed up with numb bum scenario from sitting on the ground outside the tent and purchase the nights supper of BBQ Steak before we walked around the harbour to check out the Blue Penguin Colony.

This colony is a Penguin preservation area run by local people. It was set up in the bowl of a rock quarry that was excavated when the harbour sea defences were built during the late 1800s. We paid our $20.00s entrance fee and were shown around the nesting and hatching area’s which was quite interesting then we had a free hand to watch the shore line for any Penguins to appear. After half an hour of intent watching with no sign we made our way back to town for a NZ three scoop ice cream instead. We discovered after wards that the little Penguins actually disappear in the mornings for a day’s fishing, travelling up to 50/60kilometers off shore before coming back at between 21.00 – 22.00hrs to feed their young or rest. It would off been a long wait for us so the ice cream was the right idea.

A twenty minute drive back to base camp, avoiding a trail of 150 milk cows crossing the road on the way we cooked supper, enjoyed a couple of local beers and published the last Bangkok Blog.

Tuesday 10^th

Woken up during the early hours by heavy rain, the local farmers have their wish after a couple of months of prayers. No apparent leaks in the tent so all was good. Had a lay in till 09.00 as it was still raining then surfaced and paddled our way for a shower and toast.

We said our farewells to the camp owner and neighbours then hit the road about 11.00 heading for the town of Dunedin. The further south we went the rain eventually thinned out and finally dried up and as it was approx 120 kilometres drive we stopped twice along the way to break up the driving, once to view the Moreraki Boulders which lay on the beach below the village of Moreraki and a little further on stopping for a quick lunch of Blue Cod and chips. The Boulders appeared to be made up of mud deposits and where quite large and round as the pictures show. Apart from this not to spectacular unless you are a geologist! The lunch though was much more interesting with two large portions of cod bites and two scoops of chips being given to us each washed down with a Cappuccino and long black coffee. During lunch we amused ourselves by picking a winner out of a group of pensioner’s who following their own lunch stop were making their way across the car park back to their mini bus. Sue’s choice won by a short head or handbag! my choice though took a bit of a stumble at the start but recovered well to gain third place and a pay out on an each way bet!

Following this excitement we pressed on to Dunedin, pronounced Dun – ee - din and found ourselves a camp site at Portobello on the Otago Peninsula situated east of the town. With the tent up we chilled out for the rest of the afternoon before driving the remainder of the peninsula to the Royal Albatross Colony. This is the S/E Headland to Otago Harbour and very spectacular. We walked the headland footpath getting close to many seabirds nesting, roosting on the cliff face, Guillemots, Shags, Red legged Gulls, Beady Eyed Gulls ect ect. Over the high part of the headland soared the Albatross with its 8’ wingspan, a magnificent sea bird. We ventured in to the display and info centre for a look round and maybe pay to get nearer to the nest site above us. However at $40.00 a head and with the light fading fast making photo’s difficult we decided to keep our cash.

Returning to the camp we stopped for a quick beer at the only pub for miles, not big drinkers these ki wi’s, and tried the local Speight’s brew. Not bad but a little pricy at $9.00 for two half pints.

Back at camp more folk have arrived and we are surrounded by family campers and a young and in love German couple who pitched their tent then promptly disappeared inside where followed a lot of giggling and other such sounds. We continued to read our books and politely ignored them, as the British do!

More blog writing in the shared camp common room with toasted cheese and ham sandwiches for tea concluded another day.

Wed 11^th.

Very disturbed night for me, kept awake by Kiwi family turning up at midnight to camp using an old 1950s fold out trailer tent that would of benefitted from an oil can and by the German couple returning after their evening out. Probably thirsty after their earlier antics.

After this someone along the row of tents started snoring loudly, could have been mistaken as a tremor from the Christchurch earthquake it was so loud. This then awoke a small child who was clearly frightened by the noise and screamed the place down for 20 minutes. Sue, by the way, slept through it all.

Managed to pack up site and move out at around 10.00 and drove the short distance back into Dunedin Town and parked up at the back of the Speight’s Brewery. We had two items on the agenda while in the town, the first of which was a tour of the brewery and second, Sue’s choice, a tour of the Cadbury’s Chocolate factory.

The Brewery tour was interesting and got better when at the end we were allowed to sample there Gold Medal Ale then given free access to five other beers and cider they produce. In casually chatting to some American Tandem riding cyclists who where in our group we both managed to consume a fair quantity of each with Sue opting for the Cider as her favourite. I have to say along with the yanks we were the last to leave and definitely drank are admission fee of $20.00 easily.

A quick sandwich and coffee was had before the chocolate tour was taken. I thought this was a little disappointing and as the place was still in New Year shutdown for holidays we didn’t see the production line in action. We were however plied with chocolate on the way round and were amused at the staff that resembled Kiwi Umperlumpers and tended to treat us all as children.

We had a look around the rest of the town along with the two cathedrals which sat close to the centre know as the Octagon. To be honest neither of us found any of it very inspiring for a well documented town.

It was time to make a move and we drove South again along the scenic coast road before cutting inland and finally stopping at a camp site in Waihola next to a lake. At this point it brings me up to date now typing this blog sitting in the car while Sue is having to sleep off her beer/cider consumption from earlier in the day. Oh and as i type it’s just started to rain, bl**dy great.

Most of the evening we spent cooking and chatting to other campers, an elderly cyclist from Holland and a couple from Bristol who were coming to the end of their 6 months away.

Thursday 12^th

Again for me a disturbed night, it poured down soon after we turned in and continued till the early hours. After which i was awoken at 04.30 by the NZ milk train rattling past at great speed. I didn’t realise the rail line was as close when we set up the tent. Following this the early morning road traffic started, mainly heavy logging trucks that carry approx 50 ton loads roared past on Route 1 highway, again not far from our pitch. Must pick the sites more carefully from now on.

I had given up trying to sleep at around 07.00 so i did the coffee / tea run from the camp kitchen to the tent, sorted breakfast then packed the tent up.

On the way out tried to use the camp Wi Fi to call Emma using Skype but with no success so 15 mins down the road we stopped for an early coffee stop and managed to get through ok only to be cut off after 10 mins as we had limited megabytes and were not able to connect again.

We pushed on to the town of Balclutha then picked up the coastal scenic route and headed for Kaka Point, Nugget Point and Cannibal Bay, stopping in all three to walk and catch a glimpse of the Sea Lion population. Most spectacular scenery especially Nugget Point with its lighthouse and fantastic viewing platform overlooking the headland and rocks below. Reminded us a lot, of the Californian coast line North of San Francisco at Point Reyes.

It was now mid afternoon and time again to look for our next camp so we headed back inland to pick up the scenic route again and arrived at Owaka. Now Owaka was not a large place but did contain a small store/supermarket, a Teapot exhibition, a bit random, and a coffee house so the obligatory two cups were bought and consumed along with a large slice of cheese and ham pie, a tasty late lunch. A quick visit to the store for two slice’s of carrot cake, most essential for the evening ahead then a short 10 k drive out to Newhaven where we found our camp site stop for the night.

The tent was pitched in record time as the sky was again looking a little dark and unsettled. With all the little tent chores done we went off for a hike / tramp through the sand dunes and out onto the sandy beach and a fresh N/E breeze in search of wildlife. A couple we passed told us that a large Sea lion had made its way up into the dunes and we should be aware. We tramped another 500 mts before curiosity got the better of us, or more so Sue so we headed back and crept up into the dunes to find the beast.

Sure enough there he was lying amongst the grass chilling out. We stayed long enough to take one not very clear photo then tip toed away. The signs on the beach do say to keep 20 mts clear of these creatures as they can move quickly over a short distance. Best not give it that opportunity.

Back at camp we chatted with our tenting neighbours who had emigrated from Scotland five years ago and were able to offer us some good travel tips for the journey ahead. It also turned out he once did some work in Ipswich and stayed at a B and B in Chelmondiston, what a small world we live in.

Supper tonight was a quick Omelette with Garlic bread, using up the odds and sods from the cool bag, accompanied by a couple of chilled Speight’s. More conversation followed, this time with a guy from Nelson, a West coast town on the S. Island and his Canadian partner.

Friday 13^th – Unlucky for some, never a statement was more true.....

At 11.00 last night the rain started again and gradually got heavier and heavier. At 01.30 the thunder and lightning started, after an hour or so of explosions right overhead the camps owner came out to check all was ok this us, he was genially concerned for the camper’s safety as the site was flooding quickly. We assured him we were ok and still dry and would stay with the tent.

08.00 still raining but not as heavy so in between showers we stuffed the wet tent into bin bags and hit the road thanking the owner on the way out for his concerns. It turned out this was the worst storm he had known for many a year and the thunder rattled the foundations of his house!

The rest of the day it rained and so curtailed our scenic site seeing so we decided to move straight on to Invercargill, a town of Scottish charichtor at the bottom of the Island.

We found a site and opted for a small chalet which gave us a chance to dry the tent and bedding.

If you think of an average garden shed with a bed in it and two chairs plus a fan heater, that is our night accommodation. We don’t half push the boat out.

Spent the afternoon in the town looking for waterproof coats and sightseeing. Again like Dunedin the place does not grab us so we drive back to catch up on our lack of sleep and make plans for the weekends travels. To be fair no town looks its best in torrential rain so i am probally a little judgemental.

Saturday 14^th.

Still raining, i cannot believe this weather. The locals tell us they had no rain, not a drop from mid November. We turn up and it doesn’t stop.

Spent the night sleeping on the camp airbed on top of the proper bed as we didn’t like the look of the bedding supplied. Sue reckoned it might have bed bugs. Unbeknown to us the airbed had a tiny hole in it and deflated slowely overnight lowering us nr the bedding anyway. No itching as yet so maybe no bugs.

We decided to move on again today in the search for some dry weather and headed out of Invercargill stopping briefly at an excellent store to buy some glue and a patch for the airbed plus a thermos flask and and a pair of Possum fur gloves for Sue. It was a really good store, very similer to the old Martin and Newby’s in Ipswich and the staff were terrific. Its the one thing we have noticed on our road trip is the excellent customer service from every establishment, be it a cafe, fuel station or shop, everyone is pleased to see you, want to help and genuinely are interested in you and your trip.

We found the scenic route 99 and headed along the flat southern coast passing fields of Sheep and Deer. Not sure if these are just bred for meat or bred to be released into the wild for hunting.

Came into the small town of Waihoeka and stopped to browse a small second had book shop. We are looking for an NZ Bird book to help us identify the feathered population, alas there was nothing available unless we were interested in the complete works of Mills and Boon instead. Sue popped into a retro clothes shop next door to find a fleece but was confronted with clothing from the 70s which must be all the rage here. Needless to say her dollars stayed in the purse.

We continued N/ NW travelling through gentle hills, which gradually changed into large mountains, some of which had snow on their peaks. I had decided to press on to Manapouri a small town that sits on the edge of the Hunter Mts and on the bank of Lake Manapouri. We arrived at about 16.00 and after checking out the available camp sites we chose a little place sitting on the S/E bank of Lake. We opted for another basic hut instead of the tent as the forecast was not good and it was still raining on and off. Our hut although small was a vast improvement on the one in Invercargill, freshly painted and clean bedding so no need for the blow up matteress.

After a welcome brew the next job was mend the hole in the matteress which was completed successfully after a test inflation. It was now late afternoon so a quick walk out to see the local area before tea. We walked down to the small ferry terminal that catered for trips around the lake then back along the foreshore for a mile or two. A truly spectacular setting with a vast lake 444mts deep and a back drop of the snow covered peaks of the Kepler Mountains.

The usual evening was spent cooking, eating and chatting, this time to another elderly cyclist who has peddled across from the East Coast and a Spanish guy who came for the Rugby World Cup, bought a bike and is peddling the South Island doing the odd job on the way to finance himself.

Sun 15^th

At last an undisturbed night. It was however still drizzling which apparently in this region known as Fiordland it does a lot, so much so they record an average rain fall here of 10 meters, yes mts not inches. The record was 24 inches in 24 hrs, probally a little more as apparently the measuring device overflowed before the 24hr mark was up!.

Our day today has consisted of a trip into the town of Te Anau to buy Sue an outdoor coat and walking shoes. Its a really nice town, i expected inflated prices but was pleasantly surprised, no tourist exploitation here. After today we shall camp with the tent as the forcast is improving, with this in mind we checked out a local site nr the town and were impressed so booked ourselves a pitch for 2 / 3 days next week. A drive along the Milford Sound Rd was next to check out a DOC camp site. DOC sites are camping area’s with very little facilities, eg water from a tap, stream or lake, a toilet and a picnic table. Doc camps are really getting back to nature, great fun and cheap at $5.00 a night in an honesty box.

On the way back to our presant site we stopped of for a ½ hr walk along the Kepler Trail. If you walk the entire length of this trail it takes 3 days and is approx 40 k long. We did about 500 mts.

Well that brings me up to date really so i shall now try to connect to the net and publish this blog for you all to read. Next edition in a weeks time should contain trekking reports and maybe some adventure sports, if i can muster the courage!.

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Comments

[Mike Hughes]

Catching up
Hi Jon and Sue, Well I've only just managed to get your blog address from Kelly yesterday. I went down to the marina for Roger's do and asked after you both and thats when Kelly told me where you were ect. The only bits I saw to start with was on Facebook and then you said something about the blog not being up and running properly. So I'll probably have to scan the pages to get the gist of whats been occurring and where you have visited and stuff. Evidently your weather has played its part in your travels and you surely are missing one of the mildest winters here thats for sure. As for my mate in Calgary, he says today thats Thursday, its minus forty one!!! bloody hell that is brass monkies!! Ali is well and sends her love and is quite envious of your shenanigans so far. I booked some time away over Easter and this year her birthday falls on Easter Sunday so I hope on that day we will be taking a balloon flight over the River Nile and the Valley of the Kings at Luxor. I'm really looking forward to that. (Wasn't there something about a balloon that came down in NZ recently?) Got a bit of flying to do here in London on Monday but its really been very quiet on the work front. Early days yet. So you two keep out of trouble and enjoy as they say. Have a local beer for me as well. Cheers mate, Love to Sue and catch you laters. Mike and Ali xx