ETHIOPIA: Timket in Lalibela... Seeking Enlightenment

---

ETHIOPIA: Timket in Lalibela...Seeking Enlightenment.

What is a mozaic of colour...a rugby scrum of thousands...a plethora of satin umbrellas...the most ornate crowns adorning heads one could possibly see...a pulsating rhythm of sandled feet...hours and hours of Geez...days of frantic passion...of faith...of faces...smiling or heavenward...and robes of white & red...of black & gold...of purples...of blues...of every colour imaginable...in a magic, exotic locale?

Welcome to Timket in Lalibela...it is all of those things...and more.

A three day festival to honour the Epiphany...the baptism of Christ... Ethiopian style.

In Mali our adventures were all leading to the Festival in the Desert...from Bamako to Timbuktu...to "the most remote music festival in the World"...dancing all the way...rewarded by "Our Tuareg Wedding" in the Sahara...recommitting for more.

Ethiopia was the honeymoon.

In the North...our paths were all leading to Lalibela...where an angel instructed a Christian King to carve eleven churches out of volcanic rock...to show God's majesty...and the power of his Dynasty.

And that he did...(see next blog).

I had planned to recommit our thirty years of marriage at Lalibela...to ask a priest to say a few words...maybe marching us through a colonnade of priests carrying Ethiopian crosses...dream on..!

But I am glad my plans reached fruit elsewhere...where I could water an idea...and like a desert flower it bloomed...and was glorious.

(See my blog "Our Tuareg Wedding...Festival au Desert...Timbuktu, Mali").

Timket was so full-on...for three days...that we would have had no time to think of weddings...all our attention...was...in seeking enlightenment.

And among the thousands who attended, there were throngs of tourists... mainly European...also from the Americas...and four Aussies...given precedence over locals...because tourists brought money...which showed the best and worst of foreigners in a fabled land.

Day One.

From the airport...very picturesque...up, up a narrow road to 3,200 metres to a narrow plateau over a deep valley...past thatched roofed huts...to the cobbled streets of Lalibela.

Spicy chicken injera at the Three Olives...under trees filled with birds...hoping they do not drop white parcels into our lunch.

Then to the House of the Holy Saviour (Bet Medhane Alem) ...a church cut 16 metres down into volcanic tuff...the first of 11 rock-hewn churches we were to visit.

Around and to the entrance...shoes off...meeting the man that was to be a hero in many ways to us for Timket...Birara "the shoe keeper."

Into the multi roomed edifice...heaps of priests in their finery...waiting with expectation...for the emergence of the Ark of the Covenant...a replica as the original is in Axum.

(See my blog "Ethiopia: Reviving the Axumite Empire.")

I paid 300 birr for video rights for the 3 days which gave me unfettered video and photography rights inside churches...highly recommended.

The curtains opened and out came some priests with stone tablets on their heads...wrapped in silks of many colours.

And then it was on...the frenetic procession out of the church and up onto the cobbled streets...just ahead of the colonnade of priests...crowned and bejewelled with fancy Ethiopian crosses in gold.

Thus began an incredible run that I compared to "the running of the bulls" in Spain. Birara leading us from position to position...he knew exactly where to be...always moving...sometimes running...as the crowds swelled around us...without Birara we would be swamped.

The procession was like a running stream...of people...of lustrous colours...that would suddenly develop an eddy...about thirty youths leading the run suddenly spinning in a circle...walking sticks rising together... spinning... chanting... then the stream would take off again...confined in its banks by police and other priests.

And where were we?...Birara would grab our hands...we linking together... guiding us like an oarsman controlling progress through a torrent.

Every now and then a tributary to this growing river converged...being the masses following the replica Arks of the Covenant coming from the other ten rock-hewn churches.

After miles of running, walking, stopping for photos...rubbing shoulders with ornate priests...and jostling tourists...we arrived at a stone gate...and into a mostly empty grassed enclosure with a large white tent at the end...adorned with Ethiopian flags...the temporary church for Timket.

Birara always seemed to get us front row as the thousands of followers streamed in and engulfed the area.

Our front row became six deep in front until a priest grabbed Denise's hand and said "You are our special guests" as he led us to front row directly in front of the tent...in front of the throng of tourists with cameras and long lenses like sticks of corn behind.

I felt very self-conscious as we were led to our positions...feeling the eyes of thousands...friendly from the hundreds of priests...less friendly from the tourists...and front row we retained...keeping low to the ground to not block the views of others...unlike others who believed it their right to stand in front of others to take their photos.

A row of priests with silk clad Arks on their heads...flanked by hundreds of priests...locals kept behind...tourists with prime position...we wincing each time a local or child was removed to the back.

We then enjoyed hours of Geez...the ancient language of the Ethiopian Church...only understood by priests...unless the priests nodding off on their long T-shaped sticks were like us...none the wiser.

A priest takes my video and adds to my montage...why the special treatment..? I couldn't have a better view.

Is it due to Birara...once an Ethiopian war hero...now "the shoe keeper"..?

Or was it Ermias from Footprints Ethiopia...our guide...that everyone seemed to know and hug?

Archbishop Michael in purple...clearly in charge...umbrella over his holy head...held by an attendant.

The other head honcho in gold then thanking the tourists for coming...by microphone in English & Italian...for helping Lalibela's economy...and inviting us to the Epiphany tomorrow.

I am mindful of the vital role we play in that regard, but it concerns me too many tourists do not treat locals with appropriate respect...but more of that later.

I could do a blog on "the ugly tourist" but a few stories may suffice.

After an eternity of Geez, the torrent of people streamed out and I joined them , carried like a leaf with the current.

As we approached the exits, the crowd started to implode...thousands behind me pushing forward...but the small stone gate and the metal gate exit were blocked by crowds trying to get in. Children becoming alarmed by the crush...me alarmed for their safety...controlling my own panic.

Somehow my shouting to protect the children seemed to calm the surrounding waters...having a rippling effect...the crowd responding...the exit more orderly...phew I got out of there...the gates looking like drains filled with leaves...only flowing when blockages are removed...fortunately the Police are onto it.

Day Two

Up early to witness the Epiphany...the baptism ceremony...around a blue concrete pool...inside the gates near the white tent but with stands of lashed saplings for tourists on two sides...200 birr per tourist...already packed...camera lenses expectant.

Seemed pointless to refuse so I paid as Den & I were led through the crowd by Ermias and Birara...Mike & Ros happy where they were.

And then it happened again.

The 400 birr had virtually just left my hand when a priest came through the crowd and took Den & I through the throng to the front row...a large open section...the perimeters controlled by fences of priests...with crowds many thick behind.

Then it got embarrassing.

The priest then led us across the guts of the open space...thousands of eyes on us...to the other side to a front row position near the pool that acted as the font.

Locals especially children often being removed...so we took three under our wings and making out to the priests they were under our care...thus some little ones saw the show...and were probably blessed by being able to do so.

The fences of priests were in white and red...senior priests with black cloaks in lines dancing...big drums beating...masses of swirling colour.

After further lashings of Geez...four senior Bishops dipped their Ethiopian crosses into the water in the pool...blessing the water.

It was as if the spirit in the place was thus lifted.

The locals in the crowd surged around the pool...filling the empty space...while several young men with buckets...filled them from the pool...and sprayed that holy water into the crowd....until the pool was nigh empty.

We had to join in...but very few tourists did...fearful for their cameras...or only there for the spectacle...not the experience.

So we reached enlightenment that day...with the locals...and Birara...drenched and smiling dripping faces...a highlight of their year...expectations of possibly better lives ahead.

The torrent of people then took off to visit seven sights...not sure the significance...but fortunately after three...we adjourned for lunch...but that's another story.

We were all Geezed out so that afternoon and the following day we checked out the 11 rock-hewn churches...(see next blog.)

And the ugly tourists...I'll share those on another day.

Instead I will take you on a run of photos...a run of colour...of thousands...the joyful stream of people that is Timket...seeking enlightenment.

Relax & Enjoy,

Dancing Dave (who did dance at Timket...but that's another story..!)


*****Scroll to the bottom of the page & left click "Next" for the further pages of photos*****

---

Photos

AWAITING THE ARK
Inside the House of the Holy Saviour

AWAITING THE ARK
Inside the House of the Holy Saviour

Comments

[Laila the Tuareg]

WITH TEARS IN MY EYES
Hey David- I thought I was back in Timket - thank you...

[deleted_46288]

Another great blog!
Geez Dave, through your words you almost make me feel that I am there with you. I must say that it's an amazing experience to share these Ethiopian travels, all be them vicariously, through you. Ethiopia is one of those places that I had always assessed as being too dangerous or dodgy to traverse, but your escapades have proved me wrong....Keep them coming my friend :)

[Dancing Dave]

THANKS NICK
I appreciate you spend the time to post an incisive comment...and that you have tuned into the vibe I am attempting to convey...living an experience...albeit mine...rather than simply observing it...much appreciated.

[Fly Advisors]

Just Inform
I like your way description i want to contribute and be a part of your site.Mostly my colleagues like this site and they want to contribute in this site by participation