Blogs from Lalibela, Amhara Region, Ethiopia, Africa

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Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Lalibela March 22nd 2019

19 mars "Après que la hyène est passée, le chien aboie" Proverbe Éthiopien Dans une mini-van privée, en matinée, je quitte enfin Mékélé pour rejoindre Lalibela, village situé au creux d'une route mal de coeur en angle sur les hauts-plateaux. C'est avec une famille d'espagnol que je partagerai le prix du véhicule dans lequel je prend place. Assis tout à l'arrière, les 9 heures de manège presqu'équestre me secoueront profondément l'estomac. Endroit le plus visité d'Éthiopie, Lalibela demeure un petit patelin d'agriculteurs en altitude, pauvre et loin des routes asphaltées (la Chine n'a pas d'argent à faire ici). La journée complète de transport m'essouflera, particulièrement les trois dernières heures de gravier, qui solidement réussira à m'aveugler de ce panorama imprenable sur les vallées et les montagnes de l'Amhara. ... read more
Prière sombre
Portier
Priest

Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Lalibela October 8th 2018

Ethiopia is a bit of a weird place. Amongst the things (and there are a few) that make it odd is the calendar. They use a different month system (13 months), but this can normally be ignored if you keep to short timescales as the years are the same length. More surprising is the year. New Year’s Day is September 11thand the calendar is either 7 or 8 years behind that used in the Western world so we are now early in 2011. We first realise this as one brand of beer we drink has a New Year competition (which we don’t win!). Another slightly odd thing is the widespread celebration of St George who even has a beer brand named after him. St George is worshipped in every church we visit here. We decide to ... read more
Typical house on the way up to Mary Monastery
View near Lalibela
View from pass above Lalibela

Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Lalibela October 7th 2018

The rock hewn churches of Lalibela are considered to be Ethiopia’s number one tourist attraction. They are also on a suitable circuit for us to travel in the relatively short time we have here. Most tourists choose to fly to Lalibela from Addis Ababa as by bus it takes a day and a half. We decide, of course, to go by bus. Lalibela is not much of a town, but for some that’s part of the appeal. The churches are tourist sights but they are also places of active local worship and it you are here at the right time you witness some extraordinary gatherings. Though these are Christian churches, it’s also Orthodox Christianity and is a very different style of worship to what we in the western world are used to. On one of the ... read more
Town of Lalibela looking over to the 1st church complex
Church of St George

Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Lalibela December 25th 2015

I leave Gondar the next day 25/12/15 on the 5am local service for 150 brr to Lalibela, meet four Belgium lads on the bus which ends up cram full, not a great deal of leg room for non Ethiopians hah but none the less we eventually reach Lalibela around 4pm, I track down the recommended Salem guest house stay for 300 brr which is very pleasant and near the main cluster of churches. I spend the next two mornings at the churches for mass, this can be from midnight onwards but I'm not that keen. I meet Baruch on my first afternoon after viewing the bustling Saturday "farmers" market and tag along with his guide for the second morning (a busier Sunday), I even manage to find the football on the Saturday via a football den ... read more
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Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Lalibela February 5th 2014

9 November We've arrived in Lalibela where rooms cost almost the same as camping so we're in rooms. YES! And it's been raining so it's lovely to be able to walk under cover and step into the room dry. Ah, the little things. We had the rest of the day to ourselves and I wandered a little way down the street but spent the time lying on my bed listening to the rain or in the restaurant area of our hotel, planning our next mini-trip. The next day was a long one, spent exploring the main attractions. The monolithic churches were incredible and our guide was enthusiastic and extremely knowledgeable but we were a large group with varying degrees of interest and even for those who were, it was information overload. It would've been nice to ... read more
Bet Medhane Alem
Locals cleaning the moss from the walls surrounding Bet Medhane Alem
Tombs that are now used by the living as accommodation

Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Lalibela November 8th 2013

What a change! Women in public. Guys and girls holding hands. Beer! The roads also changed almost immediately, twisting up in to the Ethiopian Highlands. The temperature was cooler too, which was a welcome relief after our time in Libya, Egypt, and Sudan. We stayed in Gondar on our first night in Ethiopia. Like many places in the area it was well over 2000m above sea-level. The following day Jaap was under the weather, so I headed north for an explore in the Simien Mountains. After 100km the map said to turn right if I wanted to reached the Simien National Park. But the road was just a rutted dirt path, and I wasn't convinced. However I tried it, and it improved to a rocky dirt road. I was stopped at the gates of the park, ... read more
The National Park guard that accompanied me on the bike.
So cool

Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Lalibela October 28th 2013

Addis Ababa: Nothing to write home about really. Pretty much a building site as they are building a metro. Reminds me of a cleaner, less developed combination of Calcutta and Delhi with the following differences: -Churches instead of temples - Fewer cows. More donkeys - The Chinese instead of the Russians have designed the metro - Less spitting in the streets - Blue taxis instead of black and yellow ones So quite different then I suppose! Trek near Lalibela: After a couple of days in Addis, we flew to Lalibela and started a 4 day, 3 night trek. Unfortunately we had to cut it short by a day and a night as Dad decided to spend the entire 2nd night throwing up! Oh dear. He’s better now thankfully. It was a fantastic ... read more
Day 1 trek: Werkhaye to Mequat
Lalibela - Bet Giyorgis
Addis Ababa, Tomoca cafe

Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Lalibela June 13th 2013

We apologize for the lack of inspiration in the upcoming words and I fear that our Ethiopian experience has suffered for our want to be home. Our inspiration has also suffered from seeing how the animals are treated in the rural areas of this large and densely populated country. This often unnecessarily harsh treatment of life, has my empathetic heart hastily retreating for safety. The people certainly don't have it easy, but sometimes we saw the animals bear the often brutal brunt of the frustration and helplessness the people here must be feeling. Our 4 day trek through Simien Mountain National Park was also disappointing on a few fronts. As our trek started, it became painfully obvious, for both the people trying to eke a living and the natural environment/wildlife, that despite being a critically endangered ... read more
Each church is cut into the stone ground.  That means each church is cut from a SINGLE piece of stone.
Olive tree
Steve and I!

Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Lalibela November 8th 2012

Too many photos to fit on the last blog, so here are the rest!!... read more
Lalibela - Bet Amanuel
Lalibela - Bet Amanuel
Lalibela - Bet Amanuel

Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Lalibela November 7th 2012

7th-9th Nov ’12 Lalibela It was a short one hour flight to Lalibela but the air hostesses still managed to get round us all to give us a drink and a bun before strapping themselves in just as the plane was landing! We drove up into the hillsides with views of high mountains around us and soon reached Lalibela which feels more like a village than a town. We past the newer area of town which is where all the people who lived in the traditional storey mud huts have been moved too in order to preserve the buildings, no idea about how they felt about this but I guess they didn’t get much choice! After checking into our hotel and grabbing some lunch we drove back through the town, down the straggly lanes and to ... read more
Lalibela
Lalibela
Lalibela




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