Vamos a Argentina!

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¡Hola Chicos!

Where did we leave off? Dusty and (hopefully not too) covered in Silica in the highest city in the world, I think. Since then we've been pretty busy and are now down in Salta - NW Argentina and soon to brave an 18hr bus journey to wine paradise Mendoza!

The inbetween... After the mine and an election induced chill day in Potosi we headed to Uyuni for our salt flats (salar de uyuni) tour. The 7 hour bus journey turned out better than expected... though you don't expect a lot from Bolivian buses and this did come with a late start, cellotaped windows, plenty of dust and a good portion of off road sections (by this I genuinely mean you wouldn't take your battered Corsa here, but these guys manage to keep an impressive speed - I expect more Bolivian rally drivers to emerge in the near future). The next day we headed out on our standard gringo 3d/2n trip.

The first stop was a strange sight... a train graveyard - originating from when the great mines of gold and silver lost value and the foreign owners abandoned their transit system. Naturally, I very much enjoyed clambering all over them. I think my childish enthusiasm rubbed off on Leigh too. Then to the small salt mining town of Calchani and onto the vast salt flats. The Bolivian salt flats are the largest in the world and are desert formed from around 20m of salt sitting on a prehistoric lake. When in the middle, all you can see is white in all directions - with mountains forming on the horizon and the odd disturbed patch where mini tornados have raged. We took silly photos, headed to an island of cacti and then to our hotel made of salt (no, not a durable building material - lasts around 5 years with no maintenance, and that's on a base of rock)! Andy from our jeep survived an off-road ride on the roof. The next day we bumped and jolted into a deserted national park where we saw volcanoes, lakes and flamingos abundant. We finished with a lake (no, I don't mean bowl) of Heinz tomato soup and a very chilly overnight. The next day our guide seemed to somewhat enjoy waking us at 4.30... and so the group stumbled out of bed and into our jeep in the dark. 6 am and we were at 5000m and in the crater of a volcano. What a site! Sulphurous geysers pored out of the ground and mud bubbled and spat in craters. The sun rose and others stopped looking like they'd used their Cotswolds discount too many times (*ahem*leigh*) and instead like intrepid explorers on a new planet. Yes you could only see the outline. The rest of the day included a green lake, the best hot springs yet and lots of driving. Luckily the 6 other people in the jeep (inc. fantastic guide and driver) were great and time went quick. I'm not just saying that cos two of them are dive instructors in the Bahamas... honest.

After our return to Uyuni, a rickety bus took us to our final stop in Bolivia - Tupiza. This visit may of had something to do with the real Butch Cassidy and Sundance Kid spending their last years here and horse-riding was naturally an obligatory activity. (yes, some of this is about making you jealous Martin!) Our guide spoke no English and not much Spanish either it seemed. Despite this, we managed to cling on whilst cantering and enjoyed the amazing scenery. After our short stay in this relaxed town, we made our way to the border. Our bus came with in-journey entertainment. A guy selling Eucalyptus oil as a cure for arthritis, cholestorol and calcium defficiency.

The difference in Argentina was immediately obvious. We got on a bus. On time, on tarmac and on seats that stayed in the upright position when desired. We stopped in Tilcara and the scenery was as quite rightfully described by MD (friend) as 'how you imagine Utah'. Leigh ate steak, we used internet where you don't have to click on the 'slow connection' button and we pointed at llamas in fenced fields instead of wandering along the road. We're now in the attractive city of Salta and after 6 weeks in places so different to back home, we're enjoying the more Western way of life, if not the more Western prices!

Can't believe we're more than half way through! 5000km still to Ushaia - our furthest point South! ¡Vamos Chicos!

Peter x

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Comments

[Nicola Mirams]

It sounds brilliant so far - keep the photos and stories coming! xx