I Can't Believe They Make Cities Like This - La Paz

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La Paz

Bolivia is a country that eludes most peoples geographical knowledge, there are a few reasons why I think this may happen:Boliva is far from Europe, is landlocked and is overshadowed by the majority of its neighbours and their sights, such as Peru's Machu Picchu or the cities of Buenos Aires or Rio. For whatever reason, most people probably don't know that the world's highest city is La Paz and they as such, most people probably don't know just how insane the city is as well.

Picture a river flowing down a canyon, descending from over 4000m to a little over 3000m in a short distance. Now picture the river buried, deep beneath a rapidly growing mix of modern skyscrapers and shanty towns, vast numbers of narrow streets covered in ladies wearing bowlers hats and wide sparkling dresses selling everything from fruit to clothes to llama foetues. People with hair greased back in a style found in the 80's rush about in their suits in an unfriendly Western manner whilst students go about eating in Burger King and Subway between classes. It is a city of huge contrasts, huge wealth difference and is frantically paced. It is somehow one of the most interesting cities
I have visited before, and one of the dullest at the same time. It's a difficult one to explain.

I wondered why La Paz exists, the altitude combined with the canyon location makes movement exhausting, to walk from one side to the other requires a taxi or a professional fitness level and time to kill. I did a little research and found that the seemingly insane location makes perfect sense. La Paz was founded in 1548 by Alonso de Mendoza. Gold had been discovered in the Rio Choqueyapa and so a settlement was needed to best be able to mine. A lot of Bolivia is a harsh environment, the freezing winds of the altoplano combined with the altitude of the region makes life difficult. The canyon provides a shield from the winds and as such, even after the gold source expired, the city continued to grow as it changed into a trading post as silver from the mines of Potosi was transported to the Pacific Ocean. In recent years vast numbers of people from the surrounding valleys have flooded the city, to the extent that the cheap suburb of El Alto was granted its own city status.

So after yet another knackering night bus we crawled to the cheapest hostel we could find. This was Mark and Sarah's last stop with us before flying to Peru. The border between the two countries had been closed for a considerable before they were due to fly to Peru. They had booked a flight from La Paz to Cuzco as the land borders had been crossed for a month and whilst backpackers were doing it, an illegal border crossing would obviously be risky. The border was closed due to protests on the Peruvian side - Latin America seems to love a good protest. This protest was by people in the South of Peru who were unhappy with a government agreement allowing Canada to mine some of the land. I don't know much of the politics, but amongst reasons, they were unhappy about the inevitable damage to the environent and because the deal isn't set to benefit the local people. Either way, Mark and Sarah purchased their flights and were gutted on reading the next day that the protest had ended.


The Troubled Turtle

Our first day in La Paz we simply wanted to stay awake, to do so we headed to the zoo on the outskirts of the city. This was to be my first in South America and my expectations were low; Bolivia is the poorest South American country and zoos I have visited in Patan (Nepal), Surabaya (Java) and Manila (Philippines) were all poor. A snow leopard in Patan was granted but a few square metres of space; in Manila the staff left live hamsters in snake tanks so not to have to bother paying attention - they were bad places. It was the images of these I had in mind but after paying an entrance fee of 3.50BOBS (30 pence), I was pleasantly surprised.

The zoo is set in large grounds, with a large volume of open space, this space is turn is surrounded by the epic canyon walls - it is a unique location. The animal pens, cages and tanks were not fantastic, hardly Singapore Zoo - but for the most part the animals were at least granted reasonable space. Perhaps considering the emptiness of a lot of the land some should have been bigger, but as a comparison to others I have visited, they were adequate. I am not into judging poverty sticken countries for mistreating animals when countries such as my own have only recently started making conditions better. When I visited Bristol zoo 10-15 years ago even as a young teenager I was shocked. I only had two real gripes with La Paz zoo, number one was that the puma cages were too small and number two - the turtle.

There was a large open tank with maybe a dozen turtles inside, some sleeping, some munching greens, all looking fairly content with their sluggish lives, except one. It was a classic cartoon sight, a turtle upside down on its shell, stuck and rocking back and forth pathetically in an attempt to right itself. It must've been there for a while as it had defecated on itself. I stayed awhile, watching as it rocked, recovered and tried again in a feeble and futile cycle. I tried to find someone to help this poor little guy, but there were not staff nearby so I waited awhile longer.

My heart was jolted suddenly by some ridiculous optimism as two of the other turtles starting moved towards their stranded fellow. My only explanations for my mindset are the pity I had and possibly altitude, but a mirage formed in my head of the approaching turtle two shunting their stranded companion upright with their heads.I figure that if I had had even less sleep, or was at a higher altitude I would've pictured the turtles as those in Finding Nemo, high fiving with their fins after there friend was rescued. Delusions aside and in reality the turtles simply walked a few steps in the general direction of the wobbling island and fell promptly back to sleep.


Day to Day

For the most part of the days we were in La Paz we were relatively lazy, it is most definitely not easy getting used to having to walk up the sides of a canyon every time you want to grab something. Our hostel, El Solario, deserves a mention; it was cheaper for a single room that most places in La Paz are for a dormitory bed and was always clean. The only problem we had was on returning from nights out to find the door locked. This is a regular thing with hostels, except this one had no bell meaning repeating banging was required and the poor girl with her baby sleeping in reception would be forced to wake and walk down the stairs to open the door as there was no electric lock either.

We ate very well in several international restaurants, Moroccan, Indian, English and Dutch food - I put on a few pounds. We went out a few times, touring the party hostels overflowing with Irish, Aussies and English. We ended up in some questionable bars - La Paz nightlife is as unique as tihe rest of the city, I will leave it at that.

Drinking in the hostel with Mark, Sarah and Ciaran one evening we had an idea inspired by seeing Jenga played in an English themed pub, Olivers Travels. The floor in Mark and Sarah's room consisted of rectangular wooden pieces and were very loose, perfect for pulling up and we made our own set. We laughed for a long time whilst playing with this spontaneous Jenga set before the real challenge began, fixing the floor. Suffice to say that it didn't look right when they moved out.

Some sightseeing was done, the obligatory stuff like checking out the markets, plazas and colonial buildings. Plaza Murrilo, the historical centre of the city was the bet place for people and pigeon watching. Surrounding the square are some of the nations most important historic buildings - the Cathedral, the Government Palace and the National Congress buildings are but a few. In the centre of the plaza stands a statue of Pedro Domingo Murillo, one of the key figures in Bolivia's independence. In 1805 he was part of a group that conspired against the Spanish but he was discovered and brought to trial. In July 1909 he led a band of patriots who plotted and rebelled against the Spanish. This day of revolution was one of the most significant events in the battle for independence. He was captured and hanged along with other patriots in January the following year. Before he was executed he spoke the following words:

Compatriots, I die, but the torch I ignited, tyrants won't be able to turn it off, long live freedom!

For this reason there remains a permanently ignited torch in the plaza and on 16 July every year La Paz remembers the patriotic deeds with a torch parade.

We walked to another historical area of La Paz, probably the only intact colonial street, Calle Jaen. The street is full of small museums and is very picturesque, it's narrow nature being a perfect frame for photos of the other side of this canyon city. Unfortunately for us we arrived here during siesta time and so no museums for us, although we did pass an old peoples home which we counted as one.


Beauty of an Insane Location

The altitude and canyon placement of La Paz make it a truly exhausting city to walk around and its fast construction has resulted in many narrow streets that are ploughed by vehicles pumping out low grade diesel fumes, often directly into your face. It can be hard. The upside is the shape of the city has left it with several incredible viewpoints (miradors). Behind La Paz is the snow-capped triple peak of Illimani, looming over the city at 6438 metres. As you walk into the city from the bus station they are one of the first things you see. Mountains looking over city from 3000 metres above is an unusual and glorious sight. Over viewpoints visited included Avenida Camacha, a street in the middle of the city where the skyscrapers frame the mountains and Mirador Killa Killa, a ledge high up in the city giving a superb view over the bowl the city lies in.


That's All Folks!

I have little else to add at this point, it was a good time in La Paz, but largely consisted of lazing, partying, eating and watching the end of the Copa America tournament. After Mark and Sarah left, Ciaran and I had a 16 hour drinking binge across the city, following which I was amused to hear his lame excuse that his hangover was caused by the altitude! Following the final we had an early night and headed out for one of my most anticipated days in South America, the Death Road Mountain Bike Ride to Coroico. That will be my next post.

Thanks for reading,
Alan

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Comments

[Pete]

more to read...and enjoying!
Just as I finished reading this post I see a message saying the next one is up! Thanks for the bedtime reading Al!

[RoamBerry]

RE: more to read...and enjoying!
You´re welcome bud, good to know you´re still reading. I think this latest one is one of my better ones. Got the next one already written up as well - catch up game is on!