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Published: July 22nd 2011
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The Cinque Terra!Hi Folks!
Time to catch you up on our comings and goings in Italy! Our first port in Italy was Livorno, from where all the excursions to Tuscany and Liguria departed. This time the blog is only about Jim and I in Cinque Terre. I will do a separate blog for M&K and the T’s in Florence.
Jim and I hopped on the bus to the Cinque Terre. These are 5 tiny Italian Riveriera towns where the buildings hang precariously off the sea cliffs or perch on top of steeply terraced hillsides. We only visited 3 of them. Manarola, Riomaggiore and Vernazza. Manarola was in my opinion the most beautiful. The weather was mild and cool with the hint of rain hanging in the air. This made the cliff and vineyard vistas even more dramatic as the mists drifted through gaps in the slopes and the crashing waves below were whipped into a fury against the jagged rocks.
When the grapes are ready for harvest, the farmer uses a tiny cart that functions like a funicular pulling the rider up and down the slopes at an angle that sure looks to be steeper than 45 degrees, on tracks no wider than
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Hillside climbing cart two feet, which is all the space there is on each slim terrace. This is not the job for anyone with a fear of heights and definitely no drinking on the job! The grapes from these vines are used for local vintages the most famous of which is the “Sciacchetra”, a sweet desert wine.
We ambled up and down the steep narrow lanes of Manarola lined with gardens and window ledges bursting with colorful flowers until we got down to the main square which provides a place to rest before heading on down the main shopping lane to the lower square where rows and rows of fishing boats were parked in front of shops dormant on a day when the sea was too rough for fishing along the coast.
From Manarola we walked along the “Lovers Walk” to Riomaggiore. The Lovers Walk winds along the cliff and all along the way lovers have written their names on the rocks, trees and shrubs and there is a saying that if your bring a small lock and lock it to something along the way, you will stay in love forever. Since Jim and I didn’t know about the locks we used the
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Old Mill Wheel and new hose. I couldn't resist! alternative lovers guarantee….. Halfway along the walk there is a concrete bench in the shape of lovers locked in a kiss. It you take a picture seated on that bench together your love will last forever. I’ll let you know if it works as well as a lock!
From Riomaggiore we took the “Milk Train” which is their local train on to Vernazza which is the largest of the 5 towns and has the only true port (though it is a very small port). Was founded around 1000 AD and was ruled by the Republic of Genoa from 1276. In Vernazza where we had lunch, Jim and I decided to try the local specialty called Trofie which is a pasta made from Chestnut or wheat flour and is covered in Pesto and Parmgianno and I also tried the local dry wine named simply “Cinque Terre”.
After lunch we ambled on down to the harbor and breakwater area where we sat watching the more daring youths of Europe wade into the chilly water off the postage stamp size beach. The other daring souls sat along the breakwater where tall sprays of crashing waves occasional gave them a surprise soaking. More boats
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Walking through the lanes of Montarola were lining the square in neat rows covered in colorful tarps. Looming over everything from high on cliff were the dark gray stones of Vernazza’s medieval Belforte Castle which was built in the mid 1500s. The quaint old stone church of Santa Margherita of Antioch was a dark and cool place to sit in peace for minute and enjoy a quiet respite from the tourists partying outside in square. When it was finally time to head back to the ship, we took our last train to La Specia. I do NOT recommend using the train station toilets unless it is absolutely necessary. A stinky hole in the tile floor which was truly filthy greeted me. I tried not to think about the hundreds of people who had stood there before me many with obviously terrible aim or shaky “hovering” capabilities. Don’t worry, I’m not permanently traumatized! We actually had fun taking the trains. It added an unexpected dimension to the trip. Sort of all for one, one for all sense as our group tried to get on a VERY packed train. We made back though for a much needed drink (and cigar for Jim) on our room balcony.
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Jenni
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So beautiful...
These are great photos Susan! Looks like you guys are having a really good time :)