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Bou Nania
This is one of the only holy places open to non-Muslims in Fez. It was built in the 1200s as a school and mosque. Today it is still a mosque, and exquisitely decorated on every surface. All of the designs serve to remind the faithful that God is Unique and Great, and to not turn to other gods. As far as the language debate goes, I’ve become satisfied with my current situation. My knowledge of French comes in handy, because there is enough French in the Moroccan dialect that I can catch a bit more of the conversation. So if I don’t know the Arabic word, I just throw in some French vocabulary, and it kind of works! It’s the Erika dialect. In my opinion, Arabic is a complex language. Knowing the standard, formal Arabic is at least less confusing to learn initially because it is only one language, rather than a dialect influenced by many languages. For instance, the Moroccan dialect says casse-croûte for a snack, which is French, and confiture for jam –in fact, many foods’ names have French-like words (obviously I have been paying attention to food).
Within a month, I have become pretty dang comfortable in my living arrangement. Although I am pretty good at making myself at home, I’m comfortable because they’re welcoming. I have even broken things and not got into trouble! I was helping do dishes and the coffee carafe slipped due to soap, and then the key stuck in my wardrobe and broke when I tried to pull it out…
Bou Nania
Walls and windows in one of the prayer rooms. I also put henna paste on the couch. However, Shéma has also broken a number of things since I’ve been here, and Meryem, the elder host sister, told me she gets henna on the couch often, too. Maman takes everything gracefully.
The weather is hot. Really hot. Like, above 100 degrees F for five hours at a time, and every day of the week. It’s a dryer heat than Kansas, which is both pleasant and dangerous. I drink loads of water, but don’t feel as sweaty as I do in the US Midwest. I still walk home, but only in the evening, when the country breeze blows in and there is more shade on the sidewalks. It’s still hot, but I need the activity and really enjoy seeing Fez metamorphose from current ideas of modern, the neighborhood around the school, into a medieval city, where I live. I also don’t have to worry about time –Maman makes me tea whenever I arrive. Because of the heat, my family has allowed me to move most of my living into their salon, where I now study and sleep. I use the rooftop, too, which is open to the breeze and very
Bou Nania
Close up of the windows. refreshing once the sun goes down. Compared to my room, the family’s salon is winter. I don’t think I snore worse than Baba.
By spending this much time with the family, I have encountered Maman praying in the afternoons and evening. Although she usually wears long shorts and a t-shirt with a scarf on her hair around the house, when she prays she takes care to tie her head scarf neatly and pull on a long-sleeved, foot-length robe after having washed her hands, face, and feet. At first I felt as if I was intruding by being in the salon while she prayed, but now I don’t. The conversation pretty much continues all around the prayer. I was also cautious to be still and un-distracting while she prayed, but one day I had to get up for the bathroom, or to go to class, or something similarly urgent, and as I attempted to gently step around her, Maman looked up and smiled, asking if I needed something. Now that I’ve become accustomed to it, I know that just another daily activity, and the call to prayer as familiar as the ringing of church bells. Since I don’t spontaneously sing
Bou Nania
Close up of the door. Everything is decorated. and dance in this kind of heat (in Morocco, at least, if not so in Kansas), I think I am not cramping anybody’s style while I sit in the family room and do homework.
I have decided that the Arab world has just as much sugar as the non-alcohol drinking world, it is simply just not fermented. I ingest a lot of sugar. Sugar in my coffee at breakfast, with bread, butter, and homemade apricot jam; sugar at lunch time as fruit; sugar at tea-time with tea-flavored sugar water and mint, bread and jam and other salty and sweet things; and sugar after dinner as fruit, Coke or other pop, and sometimes ice cream. However, I have been eating even more sugar due to my birthday –I have impressed myself with how much I can take in. Maman says sugar is good for the brain, so I guess I should just continue. Maybe eventually it will kick in.
My birthday was wonderful. I decided to invite a friend and classmate to lunch, and make apple pie-pockets to celebrate. Maman contributed by making peanut butter cookies (I think she knows me well). I thought that was sufficient to have
Bou Nania
Ablution fountain. a good day; however, when I told Maman that I wanted to go out in the evening to work at the nearby study center, I was gently mocked.
“Well, when are you going to have your birthday party if you go out in the evening to work?!” Maman exclaimed.
“Um, well, I thought inviting a friend and having cookies was good enough… You want a party?”
“Yes, we want a party!” Meryem assured me.
So I adjusted the schedule to accommodate a party, and brought friends at tea time. We had tea-flavored mint sugar water and loads of cookies and apple pie-pockets and some popcorn. We discussed the movie on television and enjoyed the evening. As night fell, my friends and classmates wanted to return home before dark. Maman insisted that they remain for a few more minutes. My friends were rather concerned, but didn’t want to go against Maman. As they sat deliberating how to manage the situation, Meryem enters the salon with a full-out birthday cake, complete with candle! I about fell on myself. Maman had even written “Happy Birthday Erika!” in Arabic, on the top of the cake. Everyone sang. I felt about
Bou Nania
I crouched at the base of the wall and took this picture looking up. Everything, everything is decorated. 14 years old, and pleased to be so. It was a wonderful surprise.
I have about two weeks left of class. I am very grateful for the opportunity to study and live in Fez, and I think I have taken advantage of the occasion as much as possible. Leaving is bittersweet because at the same time that it is the end of living with this wonderful family and devoting all of my energy to learning this language and becoming acquainted with Arab culture, it is also a return to independence and dear friends and family in Kansas. I will also be able to cut down my sugar intake, and relieve myself of midnite dinner time. I will just have to return to Fez, I guess.
**In the video with Shema, I speak very poor Arabic. 😊 We display our tea goodies that she prepared for me, and we chat about her tests to pass into upper high school. She's very concerned about them, and hopes that God blesses her with success. She also reminds me that Maman had to wake me up that afternoon to go to class. I was late. We then sing Shakira's version of 'Waka
Around Fez
After Bou Nania, we toured the medina and found this rug shop. We were served coffee while they displayed their wares -beautiful rugs from all over Morocco. Any requests? Waka'. This video CRACKS ME UP. Almost as much as the 'Roof top Tour' one.
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Nancy
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Birthday bash
I love your Maman for having a cake for you....how touching. I'm glad you had a wonderful day. I can't believe you will be leaving soon. I also can't wait to talk to you!! Bittersweet.