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Published: April 18th 2011
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Wednesday 13th and for a change, our journey today was only some 128 kms but we were still on the road by 9.30am. Just 50 kms away was Denmark where we had stayed for a couple of nights on our previous tour so we pulled in near that same caravan park for our cuppa and cake. What a delightful spot! The park is right on the river estuary and as we strolled on the footpath alongside we saw three Spoonbills, a Black Winged Stilt and a Sea Eagle all within a few minutes. We chatted to a couple from Perth who were sat by their caravan enjoying the beautiful scenery. We happily whiled away an hour there and wondered if we should be staying there again but as we were booked into Walpole today we were obliged to carry on. The roads in this part of WA are very different from what we have recently been experiencing – they tend to be windy and undulating so progress is slower. Still, we were checking in at the CP soon after midday - it was about 3 kms east of Walpole, right on the beach but set back in the bush. Each site
All friends together on the riverside at Denmark
A Spoonbill, some Black Swans, three Black Winged Stilts and a few ducks for good measure was separated by bush and it was a good thing that one of the park chaps showed us to our site or we might never have found it! He also directed Graham into the site so I was able to relax and watch an expert – there was a tight corner and a short retaining wall to negotiate and it was all done very calmly and with no dramas at all!
Once we had settled in and had relaxed with another cuppa and our sandwiches, we went to the Visitor Centre in Walpole. We picked up plenty of useful information and the usual helpful lady soon got us booked on to a short estuary cruise for the following day. We also got tickets for the world famous ‘Valley of the Giants’ tree top walk. We had done this before but because it’s such an icon of this area we decided to do it again. Graham remembered he had struggled to complete the tree-top walk because of his slight aversion to heights but he was determined to have another go. It was still only mid-afternoon when we made our way there and surprisingly busy. Although the metal walkway is very
well constructed, and obviously safe, it does sway constantly especially when there are a number of people on it. So before long I was aware that Graham was finding it challenging. The walkway is see-through, fairly narrow and at times was over 40 metres above the ground. Still, Graham persevered and managed really well and almost admitted to enjoying it. The trees are mainly gigantic Tingle Eucalyptus that can grow to a height of 75 metres and can have an enormous girth of 16 metres. Some of the trees are over 400 years old and it is remarkable that they have survived so long but they are only found in this small corner of Australia.
Half way round the walk, at virtually the highest point, we stopped and chatted to a young couple who turned out to be from Hereford in the UK. They attracted our attention because the lad, Colin, was in a wheelchair. Graham was full of praise and admiration that he had taken on such a challenge only to find that he and his partner Chrissie had actually travelled overland through Europe and Asia to Singapore, flown to Darwin, had their vehicle shipped to Australia, had
seen much of the country and were now on their way to the final destination of their long, long trip which was Perth. Colin’s vehicle was specially adapted to enable him to drive and for that reason he had to do all the driving. He was quick to point out that Chrissie did most everything else. But clearly he was not daunted by anything and was determined to enjoy life as best he could. What a fantastic pair they were! We spent some time talking to them and it completely took Graham’s mind of his concerns. We eventually made it to the end of the walkway and then got a completely different perspective by strolling, at ground level, through the ‘Ancient Empire Walk’. There we could appreciate the magnificence of the trees. Many of the older ones were hollow inside at ground level – this had been caused by a combination of bush fires, fungi and insects over the years. The trees have a very shallow root system but their strong wood enables them to survive - that is until humans came along! Up until about 20 years ago, before the walk-way was built, people could and often did, drive
right up to and inside these huge trees. This caused a great deal of damage to the roots and some of the biggest and oldest trees died.
There was still plenty of daylight left so on our way back to Walpole we diverted off the main road for several kms along a gravel road to find ‘The Giant Tingle Tree’. Having seen a few giants already we wondered what would be different about this particular tree. Well, it is one of the oldest living Eucalypts in the world and it is HUGE with a girth of 24 metres. It is well protected – cars are not allowed within 500 meters and there is a sophisticated boardwalk surrounding it to stop people getting too close. But it was splendid and well worth the drive and the walk. In addition to the tree, we stopped at a beautiful lookout. The gravel road had climbed steeply up through the forest towards The Tingle Tree and the elevated spot gave a great view across the Nornallup Inlet towards the Southern Ocean. Another signposted spot was Circular Pool which, since we were in the area, we decided to explore. This was even further up
into the forest but on arrival, the trees gave way to a lovely cascade of water down over rocks into a large pool below. It was of special significance to the local Aboriginal tribe and, with the right conditions at the right time of day, would be an excellent spot for a picnic and a swim. But the sun was near to setting so we decided we’d be better off finding our way back out of the forest before it got dark. Actually the road, made up of a series of one way systems, was very well signed and, for a gravel road, it was in very good condition. So in no time at all we had found our way back to the caravan park and settled down for the evening.
We wondered if we would see any wildlife as we were in what was very much a bush setting. On the way into the park we had encountered a kangaroo and there was evidence around of wildlife coming close to where the caravan was parked. No sooner had we sat outside with a cup of tea when a bandicoot put in an appearance. It seemed very wary at
first, reacting to the slightest movement and scampering back into the bush. In time, and as long as we were cautious with our movement, it came very close snuffling into the soft earth with its long, pointed snout. We waited for more things to appear but, apart from plenty of birds (which included the beautiful red-winged fairy wren) the bandicoot was the only thing we saw but it was entertaining enough. There was a bit of activity at the camp kitchen, which was fairly close to where we were, but generally everyone on the park seemed to settle down quite early so Graham had another early night while I spent some time on the computer before turning in.
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Darryl and Sarah
Wallaby Wanderers
Message from Sue
Hi both, Sue Madeley rang last night. We had a lovely chat and I filled her in on your adventures so far. She also passed on a Happy Birthday message Mum. She's very well and sends her love to both of you. She had been out to lunch with her eldest neice yesterday so had enjoyed a walk and being out and about. Good on you Dad for walking the canopy in the high trees - now you just need to scale the Gloucester Tree ...... maybe not, even I stopped 3/4s of the way to the top!!!! x x x x