Day 37: Chiavari to Cinque Terra

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Starting out a little late this morning as we all slept in we headed for Cinque Terra or La Spezia depending on where we could fine a camp place, we had earmarked a spot but decided it was way to far away and thought we would find another free spot or campground, boy were we wrong, this part of Italy at least is very camper van unfriendly, so mountainous and steep with houses and buildings on every available space there is, with very little left for poor old camper vans. On the way we headed out to Portofino to see if there was anything out there and we wanted to see it anyway, was that a mistake or what, we got on the road to Portofino and before we knew it we were on a road suitable for a Mini, just, we couldn’t turn around to get out and there were cars backed up behind us and more cars in front of us, what a dilemma. We finally got to the end of the road where a guy in a uniform was waving his arms, hands and maybe even his legs, it seemed that he didn’t want us to go any further, well funny that but there was nowhere to go, I didn’t even think I could turn the van around, after about a 57 point turn we were facing the opposite direction and gladly left, we still don’t know what Portofino looks like, my advice fly in get a boat or a tour otherwise keep well clear.

Leaving that madness we headed for La Spezia some distance away still hoping for a miracle and camp site. Finding nothing there we headed out to Riomaggiore one of the villages of Cinque Terra, yet another very narrow road and nowhere looking likely for a camp spot, we came around a corner to come face to face with a local Carabinieri, not happy at all that we were trying to get down to the village. He too was waving and gesticulating wildly making it obvious that we were not at all welcome there with our bloody great camper, dejected and feeling rejected we headed down to Manarola the next village around hoping for a better reception, alas that was not to be. Winding down the hill I was feeling slightly positive as I could see another camper van parked down close to the village, oh what a mistake that was, Portofino all over again but it got worse heading down the last section there was no room at all and to boot another car came up from the other direction at great speed, he backed down in the end and was not happy in doing so. Coming to the end of the road another 57 point turn was required giving the guys and girls on the motorbikes something to have a laugh about. Getting out of there was no mean feat but we did and headed off feeling by now very disillusioned with the whole bloody thing. Returning to La Spezia we drove around for hours finding nothing, one camp ground we went to was so far away from any other transport it was a joke, one was closed and the last one we just could not find. Suddenly Pam had a brainwave remembering a parking area on the top of the hills above Manarola, bloody miles form the village I thought but having no better ideas we headed back thinking that we would stay there and get up real early in the morning. Arriving there at about 2.00pm I had had enough and just wanted to sit back and sulk, Pam being far more keen on seeing the villages suggested we should take a quick walk down the 1.7km hill to see the village today and re-visit tomorrow as well. That turned out to be a great idea, we walked down the hill which was really only about 1 km after we found the shortcut through the locals back yard. A step path led ever down)wards and all you could see was these old houses painted fancy colours and that was all as far as I could see. I was in for a great surprise as we rounded a corner and there was a great piazza (plaza) and little village opened up. Words are not enough for this hidden gem and I will leave the photos to show you what was there. We walked around to the next village Riomaggiore as well and returned around 7.30 satisfied with the day. Deciding that we had had our fill of Cinque Terra we headed back to the camper for a good nights sleep. The camp spot is located 1.7km from Manarola on the left hand side and while close to the road was quiet and peaceful, good to camp overnight at to visit the villages.

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Comments

[Janice Dunn]

Cinque Terre
Making me homesick - we did enjoy our one day here at the same 2 places.

[Marko]

I really enjoyed this area. It is great for hiking but can get quite crowded in summer months. If anyone is looking for hiking ideas in this area, you can check out my blog: http://www.travel-pb.com/search/label/Cinque%20Terre