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Published: April 15th 2011
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Tuesday 12th – we were very conscious that we should make the most of our last day in Albany but were disappointed to wake up to a cloudy, drizzly day. Even though it was raining, as I picked my way through the puddles to the ablution block, I got an extra shower from the sprinklers that were on giving the dustbins a soaking – very strange! The rain gradually eased so I took a chance, got some washing done and hung it out hoping that the remainder of the day would be dry. So with sandwiches and a thermos prepared we ventured forth into the Torndirrup National Park. Most National Parks have required us to drive some distance but this one was relatively close to Albany so we seemed to be there in no time at all. Its main feature is Whaleworld – a whaling museum – which is also at the furthest point in the park accessible on a sealed road. We recall visiting the museum 8 years ago and a brilliant museum it was too. Of course no whaling actually takes place in Australia now but it was a huge industry many years ago and the relics they have
there from that industry are fascinating. We remember it was also a bit harrowing at times watching videos etc as they can’t fully explain the industry without including at least some of the harsh realities. Apart from Whaleworld, there are many other fascinating viewing points which we didn’t go to last time, mainly because then access to them was along gravel roads. Now the roads have been sealed so we made those viewing points our main priority.
The park has some spectacular coastal scenery and our first stopping place enabled us to see two special features – The Gap and Natural Bridge. The Gap is as it sounds – a natural break in the rocky coastline featuring a 25 meter sheer drop to the ocean. At the viewing point we witnessed the force of the waves that carved the gap over time in the ancient granite rocks. The Bridge was a huge, stunning rock formation with a “natural” arch-like structure. As with The Gap, the viewing point afforded us an excellent, safe view but couldn’t prevent us, or the car parked some way away, from getting soaked in fine, salty spray but it was worth it. The next couple
of stops were just viewing points which gave some glorious views across the Southern Ocean. Then it was off to the Blowholes - this entailed a 900 meter walk which included a steep climb down a number of steps which led to some smooth rocks, in the middle of which, were some fissures (cracks). The direction signs were a bit misleading as they stressed the dangers involved and seemed to discourage getting close. On the other hand, another sign right next to them indicated the best place to stand to get the best effect!! By now the weather was good and the rocks were dry so while I heeded the safety notices, Graham careered on down to stand next to the blowholes. Even from where I was standing you could see the spray being forced up through the cracks, like steam, and a loud roar came with each spray. Given that we were still some 50 meters from the cliff edge and the drop to the sea was about 30 meters, the force of the waves must have been incredible to create this natural phenomenon.
Next we dropped down into Salmon Pools at Isthmus Bay which, as the name
suggests, is a popular fishing spot for salmon as, at this time of year, Australian salmon are making their way to the Indian Ocean to breed. The bay has a nice sandy beach but there were lots of keen fishermen who were throwing their lines in from the rocks alongside the bay. Again they were dry, but when they are wet they become very hazardous and sadly, only recently, a life was lost at this very spot when a teenager overdid his casting and fell into the rough sea. The next stopping place was Whaleworld but this time we just used their very splendid restaurant (although I couldn’t resist the visitor’s shop!!) The meal we had was excellent – predictably salmon - served with rice and veggies. I managed to spend a few dollars in the shop and we had a brief walk around the grounds which included a lovely, little beach. Then we made our way to the main beach in the area at Frenchman Bay which, too, was beautiful and absolutely deserted. We hadn’t travelled prepared for a swim but this could easily have been a suitable spot. After another brief stop at a viewing point we drove
to Quarantine Hill towards Possession Point, along an area called Vancouver Peninsula, though some private property prevented us from reaching the far end which was just across the bay from Albany. Just a few hundred meters of ocean separates Possession Point from Albany at a spot called Ataturk Entrance – the main entrance to Princess Royal Harbour. We drove a little way back to a place not signed in any way. But a small gravel road tempted us to investigate and we found ourselves in another magical little spot right opposite Mistaken Island which was actually a continuation of Frenchman Bay.
What started as a damp and dismal day had become a dry and sunny day so our venture into Torndirrup National Park proved to be a big success.
Back in Albany we decided that PIE deserved a good clean to get rid of the salty spray we could see she had picked up today so we found the car wash we had spotted a few days earlier. I was in charge of the technical issues of feeding the money in and selecting the type of wash and Graham did the hard work of pressure washing the car.
Soon she was looking much better so then we went into the centre of town so I could find and photograph the statue of Mokare. He had been a well regarded Aborigine who in 1826 had played a leading role in the peaceful co-existence between the Noongar people and the first European settlers. After that we went back to the caravan park (via our favourite café so that Graham could have a last “Melting Moment” at Emu Point!) and ventured on to the beach. When we had gone there on our first day in Albany we had been almost blown backwards by the wind but now it was calm and looked delightful. I even managed a paddle although some braver souls were surfing and swimming. Our stroll was cut short, however, with a heavy burst of rain so we retreated back to Sweetie for the evening.
Albany is a great place and with the Torndirrup National Park and also West Cape Howe National Park (that we didn’t get a chance to visit) it’s an area that really deserved more of our time but tomorrow we continue west.
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Darryl and Sarah
Wallaby Wanderers
We missed all this!
Another great blog - well done! Fabulous photos too. We didn't go to Albany during our big trip, we missed it out because when we went there on our honeymoon it didn't strike us as being anywhere too appealing - how wrong were we! It looks great! x x x x Nice leap of faith there Dad! Far too athletic!! x x x