18 23 March Travelling North

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18 19 March Exploring the Forgotten World Highway between Stratford and Taumarunui
Last night we spent the evening with Jim and Nerida Ramsey at their wonderful apartment overlooking Fitzroy Beach in New Plymouth (thanks guys for the meal, chat and a comfy bed!. We look forward to seeing you again in June back in Curry Rivel)
After saying farewell, we set off from New Plymouth back the 25k to Stratford to pick up the Forgotten World Highway. This 155km adventure ends in Taunarunui on the Central Plateau. It follows ancient Maori routes and pioneering farm tracks through ambitious historic settlements, untamed native bush and stunning natural scenery (quote, unquote)
There are over 30 historic and natural points of interest including natural geographical ‘saddles’ offering spectacular views, manmade tunnels, walkways, arboretum, the republic Whangamomona, waterfalls, gorges and a railway line that was a miracle of construction at the time but which has been closed following the selloff of the railway network by the New Zealand government (sound familiar?) The highlight for us was the stunning views of the central north island offered at Nevin’s Lookout ( see pics.). Arrived at our campsite at Taunarunui and met the owners and their pet dog, cat and 4 month old Kune Kune pig.
20 March. Today we travelled on to Taupo via the 41 taking in spectacular views of Mts. Tongariro and Ngauruhoe to the south and an unknown mountain with a flat cap to the north. On the way around Lake Taupo we stopped a couple of times to speak with some trout fishers and to have lunch with an elderly New Zealand couple near where a thermal spring enters the lake. Then it was on to the bustling town of Rotorua where we stopped for the night at Cosy Cottage camp site very close to the lake. The camp was comfortable and offered three different thermal baths as well as some strange looking birds.
21 March. Today we visited the Whakarewarewa Living Thermal Village (full name is TE WHAKAREWAREWATANGA O TE OPE TAUA AWAHIAO – try saying that without your teeth in!)
This is a highly recommended guided tour of how the Maori live with the geothermal allowing us access to their homes and lifestyle. It was very informative and what impressed us most was the welcome given to tourists on whom their livelihood depends. We were greeted as friends but once inside the compound became part of their family. The guided tour lasts 1 hour and there is an opportunity to have experience the traditional Maori cooking or the Hangi – steamed food cooked in the geothermal waters. We had just a snack – corn on the cob which was delicious but you can choose the full Hangi which we were told was delicious. The experience also includes a half hour performance of traditional and modern songs and dance by performers in traditional costume and includes the Haka (intimidating war dance designed to avoid a war), Waiata a Ringa (action song and the famous Poi dance. Along with some audience participation this made for a very colourful and entertaining show which was made all the better because it was local people performing as they would in their own community. Not as slick as the more well known (and costly Tamika) but nevertheless excellent entertainment. You are then encouraged to take the Freedom Walk which celebrates friendship with other countries and cultures. A bonus of this visit was the great view you get of the famous Lakes Te Rota A Tamaheke and Roto Kanapanapa and the Pohutu and Prince of Wales geysers in the nearby Whaka Thermal Reserve.
After a quick cuppa in the cafe we set off north towards Tauranga finding a nice but expensive Top 10 camp site overlooking the beach at Papamoa where we settled down for the night.

22 March Didn’t sleep much last night due to a weather front that brought strong wind and heavy rain that lasted all night. So it was with bleary eyes that we set off this morning. Our route today took us up State Highway 2 and branching off at Waihi on the 25 towards the Coromandel Peninsular. We stopped briefly at Whangamata which is famous for an annual beach hop where 70000 people descend on the town for a weekend of rock and roll, jazz, American cars and beach parties. Shame we couldn’t stay but we did see plenty of the big flash American cars cruising around with the 5 litre engines. Oh and by the way we were both amused by the Exeloo – all singing all dancing electronic toilet with welcome voices and cafe music. We hoped to get to Hot Water Beach where you hire a spade and dig your own little thermal bath in the sand. Unfortunately the road was closed due to flooding and landslips so we took the 25A towards Thames continuing around the ever so pretty Firth of Thames before re-joining the SH1 at Papakara. The SH1 takes you through Auckland with glimpses of the Sky Tower and Waitemato Harbour as you go over the bridge. With our aim of getting as far north as we could we eventually found a camp site at Waiwera and a pitch as close to the water’s edge as you get. We enjoyed a beautiful moon rising between the horizon and the low cloud and managed to catch up with the lost sleep from the previous night.
23 March. We woke early to a lovely sunrise and set off early our objective to reach Whangarei by lunch. Incidentally, although the location at Waiwera is fantastic the facilities leave a lot to be desired. Making good time we de-toured from the SH1 at Kaiwaka towards Mangawhai. This proved to be a good decision as the area is simply lovely. Little peaceful coves like Lang’s Beach and quiet roads with desirable properties either side. Mangawhai Heights is also worth a stop for the scenic lookout and watching the ladies bowls. From here we re-joined the SH1 and steamed on to Whangarie for a quick food shop before heading on to Paihia where we found a lovely camp site Beachside Holiday Park, Paihia (they are on facebook and twitter) again right by the water's edge

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Photos

Forgotten Highway vista
Nevins Lookout

Forgotten Highway
Republic of Whanganomona

Mount Taranaki
Aka Mt Egmont

Maori Thermal village
How they might have lived

Maori Thermal Village
Communal bath. Women enter with towel gradually let loose, men enter by cupping!

Maori Thermal Village
Tony and friend

Maori Thermal Village
Traditional song and dance

Maori Thermal Village
The Haka intimidating war dance performed to prevent war

Maori Thermal Village
After the performance we were all invited to come down on the stage for photos. So welcoming

Maori Thermal Village
Village gate with victims of the war remembered

Craters on the Moon
Thermal mud pool and vents

Whaka
promounced phaka!

Comments

[Colin]

Thankyou
Hi M&T, Just to say thankyou for remembering my birthday, very impressed with the orginisation before you left! Sounds like you are having a super time, weather her this week wonderful with clear blue skies. Off to the Breacon Beacons next week. Keep the very imformative blogs coming. Safe travels, Love Col.x

[Ryan]

Eggs
No mention of the smell of eggs at Rotorua (due to the sulphur I understand, no other local diet problems).

[T and M]

Rotorua
Yes there is a smell but if you've been brung upnear Bridgwater you be used to it. Maori Thermal Village was great - recommended over the other expensive night time cabarets. You OK? xxx PS just uploaded some photos

[T and M]

Breacon or Brecon?
Hi Col. Glad you had a good time and the weather is fair. Bloody windy and rain here at the Bay of Islands -no sailing or swimming with dolphins today I fear xxx T and M

[T and M]

Sunset over New Plymouth
What a wonderful picture though I say so myself!