Beijing - Ice Swimmers

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Down by Hou Hai Lake


Last Wednesday, at around 3pm, Tracey and I walked around Hou Hai (Black Sea Lake) towards Qian Hai where I had seen thousands of Ice Skaters on New Years Day.


All of the lakes in Beijing are frozen over. We first saw it at The Summer Palace on our first day, but this is different.

At two places on Hou Hai, the ice has been broken apart for the daily activities of the locals who go Ice Swimming. At first we couldn't believe that we could see people in the water. It's been between minus 2 and minus 12 degrees every day and the wind is vicious.

At the edge of the lake, a man was netting ice away from the edge and men were swimming as if it was something quite normal. I'll put this into perspective. I wear woolly tights under trousers and have extra socks on and always wear two pairs of gloves, these men were wearing trunks (tiny trunks) and swam as if it was a spring day.

It's something that has been done for years. People have tried to stop this swimming activity but the swimmers believe that swimming in the ice is good for circulation and health. For me, it must be mind over matter and I feel they must be some of the strongest people on earth. All of the men were happy, joking, lively, and warm. The oldest on that afternoon was a 78 year old. All of these men had retired - the youngest being 50 and didn't look any older than 35.

Here's how it goes:

There's no order to it, no pushing, shoving or wrestling for space. They seem to turn up around 3 (ish) on their push bikes, derobe, either dive or sink into the water and all have their own way of 'taking in the waters' some glide as if it's a spring day, some splash as if their very lives depended on getting out, some bob up and down, some swim circles, some widths but all brave the icy waters for what seems an inhumane amount of time. When they come out, their skin is red raw, they pour luke warm tap water over their bodies or hands and feet, at which point their feet can ice to the ground and then they gently get dressed. NO screaming. We stayed with them for some time, filmed, photographed and talked with them.

I asked if women swim and they said yes, at 8am.

So, 8am on Friday, I went back and sure enough, the ladies were there also swimming as the sun rose over the lake. A couple swam together, a man told me he had been swimming for 30 years in the lake, and then, after over an hour a man arrived with his dog - a small sheltie called Hei Hei who couldn't wait to swim.

His owner, gently lifted him down onto the steps so he could jump in and here is the moment of them both taking to the water at the same time. Tracey captured that split second before the dog hit the water, no return. When Hei Hei came out, within 5 minutes, he wore and icicle coat.

I admire them all so much. Cannot believe they do it 3 - 4 times every week and have 'acclimatised' since September. I can't believe a human body can take such freezing conditions and still come out smiling.

It's one of the secret wonders of Beijing and the inner strength of the Beijingers.

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Photos

the most amazing split second
caught by Tracey R

picture perfect
before and after the swim

78 years old.
warm water after swimming in the iced over lake

the youngest lake swimmer
a fit 50 year old

Walk Slowly
Man Zou

lady swimmers 8am
sun rise over Hou Hai

Comments

[Haiqun Yang]

Ice Cannot Frozen the Warm Hearts of Beijingers
Following Tracey's email, I found the Travel Blog, where I myself, as one of the ice swimming team in Hou Hai (Back Lake) of Beijing, is the owner of the Dog Xiao Hei in the story written by Tracey. Originally, Hei Hei was a successor of the Engish Shirid. He is just 3 years old. But it is his first winter to swim with us though he swam here in summer for two years already. He was so brave that when I jumped into the ice water, he would undoubtedly follow me to come into it without any hesitation. He learnt from me and become a brave member loved by the team. Tracey is right to find the insight of the Beijiners. Actually, it is the spirit of the nation. To the Chinese, there seem not to be any difficulties that can hinder their way to realize a beautiful life. With such industrial and brave people, China is paving her way to the even more splendid future.

[deleted_49612]

You are being talked about. :)
Check msg 18, 19 and 20 of http://www.travelblog.org/Topics/27154-1.html

[TraceyDoxey]

Hall of Fame
A really big Thank you, Mell, for thinking about my blog. I'm very flattered, You made my day again. Honestly.