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Published: January 4th 2011
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The return to South America did not go as expected. For some reason I expected for everything to go smoothly and that the visa paperwork would be processed quickly and I would be back in the jungle before New Years...well here it is, the 4th of January and I'm still awaiting the paperwork's arrival!
Bogota's Darker side Bogota is a city of two faces; astetically, the buildings are drastically different, either built with a modern design or the old colonial set-up, complete with flower filled balconies and painted with bright colors. However, it is not the buildings of the city that set it apart, rather the people. Many people enter and leave these buildings dressed in expensive clothes and suits while a massive number of the city's other citizens sleep outisde these same buildings, wearing rags and picking through the trash for food or objects to sell. I've never been in a big city like this before, where many people, and even entire families pass thier days on the street. In the cities of New York City, Los Angeles, and Madrid I never saw this level of poverty in the middle of it all, but here I saw it all
too often. It has made me think about how I react to it. Who am I to decide who to give money to, who needs it more? Do you give money to each person on the street begging, or is that just encouraging the mindset to beg rather than work? That to me sounds a bit arrogant, but I do believe it to a point. Still I find myself reaching into my pockets here and there to try and make someone's day a little brighter and have been suprised by the "thank you senora, may God bless you" and such. Is there more harm or good in handing out to those picking through the trash for a bite to eat? But it also makes me think on a larger scale; the numbers, and the presence of whole families, leads me to question why there are so many...does this city of 8 million not have enough oppritunities for the poor to earn a living, or can the government not manage to care for its people? However, it seems that the people of Bogota hold a special place in their hearts for those down on their luck. A group of Bogotanos started
Aguapanela y Pan, which a group of Couchsurfers has branched off of. They got out once a week to pass out aguapanela (a hot, sweet drink) and give bread to the people of the streets, offering kind words in the process. For them the main goal is to make the people feel visible: like people. It almost made my gut wrench on every encounter, there were sooo many people! Also, while most of the people were very nice and grateful for what the group does, on seprate occasions I have felt scared- For example, on New Year's Eve the streets were virtually empty except for those who lived there. When I re-counted all the street people I saw the night before (to the man at the hostal), his response: "well, did you wish them a Happy New Year?". Maybe that's how it has to be until the government can find a way to care for its poor (or the people force the government to change), the people have to care for those around them, whether it be small change, a hot drink or even a few kind words.
A Treat for the Tourist The other side of Bogota has a
lot to offer in terms of culture. I don't typically go for muesums, but here they were amazing! I also found a free jazz concert, delicious soul warming coffee and have passed numerous hours just wandering the streets. My few days here have turned into many, which has been nice as I have seen different parts of the streets I wouldn't normally see- the National Library, which has texts from the 15th century, for example and yesterday I even went a saw a movie! The Couchsurfers from the city have been very inviting, after Aguapanela's we all chatted over a few beers and met up at one's house for a Mexican dinner the following night, where I met Hannah (the only other traveler at the meal!). The next day the two of us went out to Zipaquira and wandered the dark passages of the salt Catedral...the things people do in the name of the Lord...it must have cost millions!!!
We returned to the city and decided to meet up later for a New Year's Eve dinner. Honestly I was feeling pretty down, I almost talked myself into not going out! Thankfully I did, but we were in for a suprise!
The New Year's holiday is spent with the family here, in the house. Since we don't have any family we started walking around looking for something delicious and exciting. We wound up eating street food and crossed into the New Year at a bar playing salsa and vallenato with about 15 other Colombians. Hannah pulled out the grapes from her purse, she had counted out 12 for each of us...but since we shared it seems I will only be having 9 months of good luck in the year to come! After a few drinks we took off in search of a Salsateca she had written down- CLOSED...but the gay bar next door was open! We were warmly recieved...I wonder if they thought we were a couple? And pased the last few hours of the night laughing, chatting and watching the sheer delight of the men on the dancefloor. It was the strangest New Years for me, I believe!
Time for Myself I awoke the next morning and thought about why I had been so down the last few days, especially since I had only been gone a few days and typically don't get too homesick! I realized I had not truly alone in almost 2 months! So I hopped on a bus and took off to Suesca, not really knowing what to expect. Of course the only hotel in the small, green town was closed for holidays! I walked up a dirt hill about 20 minutes and found La Esperanza. It was definitely way over my typical budget, but I realized I needed some time to myself...and what is one night? All the meals were included and delicious, I had a room complete with a fireplace, a gorgeous sunny view and all the noises from the barnyard below. I passed the day, and the following day, reading, napping and walking the trails. Perfect. The hotel had lots of good ideas, a full garden, livestock, their own water-treating facility and even a building made partially out of plastic bottles stufed with plastic bags. I had heard about this before, someone was going to make greenhouses for the schools in northern Colombia mainly out of these bottles, but this was the first time I had seen it.
I finished my book, El Hueco (about Colombians crossing into the States back in the 80s) and started walking down. It was such a beautiful day I figured I would just walk until a bus picked me up...good thing the scenery was beautiful because 2 buses passed by me, completely full, and just as the sun was starting to set a nice couple picked me up and dropped me at the terminal in Bogota. Now I'm back in the city and feeling refreshed!
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Charles Holland
non-member comment
what a great artcle!
This one was very informative, Travel services really needs to be given a priority to the customers.. Let us all patronize a natural spots in the envirnment. Good job! You might wanna check us at http://yourtravelclub.biz/