Gunga- minced lamb no pain

---

Today at lunch I had a hard time figuring out an item on the menu 'minced lamb no pain'. Hmmm, what ever could that mean. The entree' above it was 'minced lamb hot spicy' so I figured 'no pain' meant it was without the spices. Turned out to be correct. I've never been able to figure out why people who write menus, tourist brochures, or copy that is going to be printed in English don't have it reviewed for correctness by the English Dept. of a local Univ. Well, if they did it would end some of the more hilarious moments of my trips. In Japan, I saw a sign for a 'Flesh Bakely'- wonder what they were cooking up?

Our first stop today was to the Basilica Cistern. I had visited it when I was here in 2,000 and wanted to show it to Val. you can check out her pictures of it at her site: www.flickr.com/photos/maumus/

I almost don't know how to begin to describe this massive underground cistern that was begun by Constantine ( let's say around 325 A.D.) and expanded by the Emperor Justinian in 532 A.D. to ensure that the city always had a supply of water. It is massive covering about 12,000 sq. yards. It once held about 18 million gallons of water. The roof is held up by 336 pillars that are 26 feet in height. Many of the columns were used from ruined buildings. There are 2 pillars that each have a 4 foot head of Medusa at their base. No one knows where they came from or why they are there. The place is eerily lit and it is a bit spooky. The water seems to be about 2 feet deep with many fish swimming around - some looked to be about a foot in length.

Later that day, Val and I learned how to take the tram system. First, Val figured out how to get the tokens we needed out of a machine that had no English on it. The tram runs through a large part of Istanbul even from the European side to the Asian side. We rode it to the end of the line and back again until got off at the 'new mosque'. I guess only in Istanbul can a mosque built in 1597 be considered 'new'. Really, we were headed to the Spice or Egyptian Bazaar. This is much smaller than the Grand Bazaar and so much more manageable. I have to say that after the pushy and very aggressive salesmen in Egypt it is a pleasure to visit the bazaars here. Yes, of course, they all want to make a sale but they are polite and take my "no thank you" with a smile and a shrug of the shoulders. The spices are here but not as they once were. You can still see piles of green mint powder next to mounds of cinnamon or saffron ( most likely not real), and box after box of Turkish Delight- a sweet nougat like candy. Loose teas of all kinds are in bins and are sold by the gram- hibiscus, jasmine, cinnamon, and on and on.
But the t- shirts shops, evil eye doo -dads, sets of tea glasses, hand made soaps, and jewelry shops are crowding out the spice vendors.

We were not thoroughly wiped out but sufficiently tired that we needed a little 'pick me up'. We spotted a Saray sweet shop and headed for the pudding counter. We each had a chocolate pudding that is the best I have ever tasted in my life. It's sort of like a jar of Smucker's fudge ice cream topping but not as sweet and not quite as thick. The flavor is just all dark chocolate- worth a trip back!!

Tomorrow the Bosphorus and the Palace!

Carolyn/Gunga

---

Comments

[Martha]

Ah, the details
As I read your commentaries I feel I am walking beside you. You have such a gift sharing the written word. I'm anxiously looking forward to reading your next installment. MMM