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Published: April 13th 2006
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on the roof of Lhamo's Croissant
Shira took this of me for Ajay. I just talked to him on the phone and told him I would take a picture. Hi Ajay!! I have been in Macleod Ganj just over a week now, and it has been a week of highs and lows; ups and downs. And I don't just mean the spectacular scenery -- snow-capped mountains on one side of this tiny city and a golden valley on the other.
I started feeling a bit better and began my first shift of volunteering at Art Refuge, on the roof of the reception centre. Immediately, two tiny Tibetan girls, sisters, grabbed me and hung on to me for the entire afternoon session, one lying across my lap as I sat on the floor, and another hanging around my neck and patting my hair. The littlest one, Lobsang, had one of the biggest grins I have ever seen, and she grinned right in my face, her tiny face full of love and joy -- despite the terrible suffering she, like all of these children, have been through. They have had to walk out of Tibet, through terrible conditions, full of fear, and usually without their parents.
Most of them have bad colds, runny noses, bites, and skin rashes due to the drastic change of weather. But they have lots of enthusiasm and
Ram and I
This was taken at the Kareri Lodge Guest House of the owner, Ram, and I love doing the art projects (in the morning session) and playing games and making puzzles (in the afternoon session).
So that's the good news. I was very moved by my short volunteering experience, and felt very lucky to be able to share love and fun and creativity with these remarkable children. The bad news is I got really sick, for the second time since I have been here in Macleod Ganj. It started Sunday afternoon with a tummy ache, at the same time as a big mountain storm was starting to brew. And by the time the storm was in full force, so was I! Sunday night was the worst night I have spent in India, I think. The power was out for most of the evening, and the storm was the fiercest I have ever experienced in my life. Through my huge picture window looking over the valley, I could see enormous lightning bolts, hear thunderous storm clouds and watch sheets of rain. The sound of the rain on the tin roof over my head was roaring loud. So during the midst of all of this, and to only the light of two candles, I had to run
to the bathroom many times with explosive diarrhea and projectile vomiting.
Sorry for the graphic image, but that's India! Now I am recovering, again, just like last week. I have spent more time exploring Macleod Ganj, went shopping with Shira, the other volunteer, to Dharamsala on the weekend, and went for some walks out of town. I have also spent a lot of time reading on my lovely balcony and watching the magnificent birds (eagles, magpies, crows and loads of others). It's been a frustrating experience, as I am here to volunteer and thus far it has been interrupted twice. But at Art Refuge they are very understanding, and very kind. The staff consists of Ama Adhe, who runs the program and Llhamo, a young Tibetan woman who speaks good English. Shira and I are the volunteers. They like to have two volunteers at a time. Shira is English-Israeli and she is a great source of support and information.
I am still feeling weak, and still not sure if I like this place. There IS dark energy here -- a young man was murdered here a couple of days ago, and some say it was drug-related. Also, women
my room is very much ...
... like a cottage -- but with a deep valley where the lake should be! are often harrassed by "overly friendly" young men. There are a lot of beggars, street dogs (who bark like mad, in unsion, every night) and an open sewer runs down one side of the street.
On the other hand, yesterday I walked up a forest-lined road to a village a few hundred metres higher up the hill, passing Tushita, a Buddhist retreat centre and a Vipassana (meditation) centre, both beautifully situated in the forest. It was a lovely walk. I met two young women who were staying at the gorgeous TIPA (Tibetan Insitute for Performing Arts) guest house; and talked to a very nice Scottish woman at the Tushita retreat centre.
And Ram, the Kareri Lodge Guest House owner/manager has been incredibly kind and helpful to me. We drink tea together, and he or his staff are often helping me by getting me bottles of water and even some more medicine. Ram was a pharmacist before he opened this guest house! (I have resisted taking the strong antibiotic and antiparasitic medicines I got in Delhi, but I am taking them now. Hopefully, this will finally go away! Though the hygiene is in question in most restaurants here in
MG, and I don't have a kitchenette so it might be hard to avoids bugs...)
I have also found a few little places I like here, such as Lhamos Croissant Cafe. The cakes and tea are wonderful, and you can sit on the roof and see the mountain view. There is a also a vegetarian Japanese Restaurant that Shira and I like very much. Most of these places are tiny, and crammed together on one of Macleod Ganj's three narrow streets. Most don't even have a toilet. (But don't get me started talking about toilets in India and here in particular.)
So I have had a bit of a tough time here, but also some lovely experiences. However, I suppose I should be grateful I am up in the mountains where the air is clean and fresh, the days are warm (not hot) and the nights are cool. In Delhi they are broiling! As I will be too when I return in a couple of weeks...
In the meantime, today is April 13, a full moon, and apparently this is a special day. There is a big spring festival here in India, and it's also Passover, the
Macleod Ganj street scene
a moment later, the man kicked the cow day that the Buddha attained enlightenment (but that happened much further south in India) and I don't know what else!
This morning we made butterflies with the children, and they loved the activity, colouring them, playing with them, and then Shira and Llhamo hung them from the ceiling. As a matter of fact, it is butterfly season here now, and I sit on my balcony and watch dozens of them, most of them white, flutter past. Very lovely.
Now if onlyI could get feeling better and get my energy back. Being with the kids really makes me happy, but also wears me down. Oh well, acceptance seems to be one of the big lessons of India for most people, me included. I injured my foot when I started the yoga training and now I'm sick while starting to volunteer. What to do?
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Mary Lynn
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Sending positive energy
I'm so sorry you were so terribly sick! I'm trying to send you some positive energy and healthy vibes (I'm eating pineapple and melon, if that helps) -- I had the feeling something was up; maybe it was the foreshadowing in your last blog. Michelle Bullard and I were talking about you the other day, and we both worry when we haven't seen a new blog in awhile. Take care! I love the pictures of the kids and their beautiful butterfiles!