Ash not what the volcano can do for your country


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June 30th 2010
Published: June 30th 2010
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Masked up against the ashMasked up against the ashMasked up against the ash

That's not fog behind me, it's volcanic ash. I scooped up a small bag - it sells to tourists for 2,600 kronur a vial here - about $24. I'm rich!
Despite a far-too-late night and a vat of wine (thanks for driving me home, Inge) at Inge and Osk's house, I managed to haul myself out of bed for a bus tour of the south shore of Iceland. I was a bit leery of a 10-hour bus tour - especially this little bus which seemed to be riding on its axle, having left whatever springs it once had far behind. But a coffee stop revived me and we were off. As we headed closer to the area where Eyjafallajokull (prounounced "Ella" and henceforth to be referred to as "the volcano here) erupted in March, the landscape started to change. The dramatic green-covered lava fields gave way to flat, black expanses and stopped up rivers that had washed the road out, creating huge ruts and bumps. And the weather changed too. What was a pleasant, overcast day, now looked like a foggy morning. At some points we were in near-whiteout conditions as the fine ash swirled around us. Soon my eyes were stinging and I was grateful for the masks the tour guide gave us to protect out lungs from the super-fine ash powder. The volcano has turned the glacier we stopped
The glacierThe glacierThe glacier

You can see how dark the ice is from the ash. We could see the volcano in the distance. The ice cap in it's top is completely black now,
at first into a grey mass of ice. But it was still magnificent to see. Ditto Vik, the tiny village at the edge of the North Atlantic. By the time we got there, the ash had given way to violent wind and rain, but we headed out to explore the black sand beach anyway. I kept reminding myself that I'm Canadian - cold has no power over me. I was still soaked and shivering by the time we got to a museum that included some outdoor exhibits of old sod houses. The modern world eluded Iceland for a long time and the living conditions were quite primitive through the 1960s, the museum guide told us. We also stopped at a pair of waterfalls and I wish the day had been better, but the harsh weather is also a reminder about how hard life is here. I have a lot of respect for these people.
Back in Rek for a hot shower and some tandoori chicken - not bad at all - on the main street, which is just a five-minute walk from my hotel. I'm going to put on my sleeping mask and have an early night. It never seems to get dark here but I have a feeling I'll nod off quickly.


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Some tourists will eat anythingSome tourists will eat anything
Some tourists will eat anything

This is a hunk of ice from the ash-covered glacier.
Glacier climbersGlacier climbers
Glacier climbers

Dig their cool pick axes.
Aaaaalvin!Aaaaalvin!
Aaaaalvin!

He's everywhere, Dave.


30th June 2010

Where next? Fiji?
Is this whole Iceland yet another way you can do "your job" in some exotic wine-swilling place?
1st July 2010

And your point would be....

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