Day 9 Liapades to Ag Georgios (NW)

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Up early and the weather is looking fine; pack my bag and off to breakfast. Definately nobody else here going on the trail today although there are a few who will be walking locally. Really looking forward to today despite fact foot is no better for a days rest. I know how to cope with the discomfort and today is another day with spectacular views; I know already from previous holidays to Corfu about the views over Paleo from Bella Vista but to see them after you have climbed up there will make them more special; and after reading John Waller's new book 'Walking the Corfu Trail....with Friends, Flowers and Food' I'm also eagerly awaiting the cliff top path down to Ag Georgios and its views. The cover photo on the book will appear in my photos today along with my alternative cover! His book is an excellent read not just if you have walked or plan to walk the Trail as it contains so much more about the Island in his talks with his guest walkers each day. It's a must read for all who love Corfu so if you haven't read it get you copy now @ www.yiannisbooks.com.

So its 8:45 and I hit the trail which has an unusual start today. Down towards the beach, round the back of the Elly Beach Hotel (an all inclusive place; when I popped in for a beer while at the beach the guests were having dinner; food looked average, setting is lovely but there was a digger working on the beach levelling it and cleaning it. What a noise; next morning it was there again while they had breakfast!) into their grounds and past the swimming pool, through the garden and past a fence into the forest. It now climbs steeply until you meet a rock wall some 10 foot high. This you must climb; the notes tell me there are footholds and a rope and sure enough there are. However a local has helped walkers considerably in true Greek style..................they have wedged a step ladder against the rocks to make it easy (see photo). Initially you now descend cross a small road and into olive groves gradully climbing to the main Paleo road. We are not going into Paleo but if you are staying there you can find other paths leading up to Lakones from just behind the the hotels and tavernas if you fancy a walk.......the great thing is there is a free bus service from Bella Vista to Paleo so you dont have to walk back down. Try it it will enhance your holiday!! I cross the road and start to climb more steeply until you join another road. Walk the uphill way until there is a junction and take the smaller road and almost immediately join a path; partly cobbled up through the olive trees. Lots of the small lizards around in the nets. This path comes to a tunnel under a road (someone has drawn a large map on the tunnel wall). Emerging onto the road go downhill and take the first concrete road left which is steep. Past a house (which must have great views) take a path beside the wall of a cliff. Again cobbled and steep you climb through more olive groves and small trees and soon you get your first views back to Liapades (I can see my Hotel room) and of course down towards Paleo. This niice path now zigzags until you meet a road and you cross this joining a very uneven cobbled path that climbs very steeply; which is more like a watercourse than a path! It emerges with some steps into Lakones village. Another traditional hillside village with traditional buildings and narrow streets.
This part now means a 2.3km walk along the tarmaced road (unaviodable and the longest stretch of road on the Trail) but its worth it. Initally through the village and past the small square ; due to the narrow streets watch out for traffic; there are traffic lights so in theory cars go one way at a time but out of season (and some even during it) the locals and even coach drivers just ignore the lights and chaos can follow. I once had to wait three changes of lights going down due to coaches having jumped lights coming up and forcing me to reverse. As you walk along the road the views begin to open up over Paleokastritsa, its two bays separated by the promontary of Vigla and beaches, the harbour ( this is the only refuge for large boats on the west coast). Nearby is the large Hotel Paleokastritsa. The harbour is backed onto the promontary of Agios Nikolaos on which in ancient times was the original settlement of Paleohora. Under this rocky promontary there is a massive base (you can see the giant steel doors behind the harbour) that was constructed by the Greek Colonels back in the 1970s. It is rumoured to be for the benefit of the NATO forces particularly the Americans for hiding nuclear submarines. Moving on the view now is of the Theotokos Monastery (also known as the Monastery of Panayias Paleokastritsa) which you can visit. The best time as it is open til 8pm is later in the day when the busloads of tourists have gone and the setting sun shines in golden orange to almost pink light over the bays. There has been a monastery here reportedly since 1228 but the present one dates from the 17th and 18th centuaries. Whilst not active it is still tranquil and also houses a museum so is well worth a visit. I'm at Bella Vista now and its just before 10am and the 1st of the tourist coaches has yet to arrive. All these views from Bella Vista are often referred to as "the best views in Europe" and who is to argue. The seas here have such a variety of colours from bright blue to turquiose to emerald green. Walking on past you turn a bend and soon through the trees another view opens up, this time towards the byzantine castle of Angelokastro. It is one of the most important byzantine castles in the whole of Greece. It was built on the rock outcrop some 400 metres above the sea and dates back as far as 1214. Its sight means you can see all the way to southern Italy and also across to Corfu Town. It is believed that by using light signals, sun off glass, warnings of invading pirates could be made to the fort at Corfu Town so they could prepare to defend the town. Restoration work has been ongoing but you can now visit the site (bit of a climb needed) and there is also a church (early christian 3 aisled style) that was added to the castle at the top left as you view it. The castle was pivitol in the great seige of 1571 by the Turks who were unable to take it such is its defensive position. You then walk on past a convent and Museum of Ecclisiastical Art.
A short walk after and its off into the trees and across a stream bed, scrambling down its bank and up the other side. It's nice to be in the shade of the olive groves again after the heat of the open road despite the great views I have seen. The path now becomes a very nice cobbled way and climbs taking me to the village of Krini. A small picturesque village on the slopes of Istoni mountain it has been around since Homer's time (doh! not that one). The chuch of Agios Nikolas looks very fine and the small village square so inviting (yet all the tourist cars just drove through without stopping). I stopped here surprised to see the women sat under the tree of idleness and outside the Kafenion and shop. I went into the shop to buy water and a snack. I too sit under the tree. Then a van pulls up and the women form a queue; it is the baker which explains why the women were all in the square. They buy their bread and then I too make a purchase, a current bun which was very fresh and tasty. I pop into the small Kafenion which in fact is more of an ouzerie/coffee shop and 3 old men are inside and the TV is on. I order an ouzo and a large shot is poured; i am invited to add water myself from his bottle. His walls are lined with bottles of ouzo and other spirits and some look as they have been there unopened for the best part of 40 years.

On I walk again after this nice 20 minute break descending through the village to the region known as Paliokisies. Open olive groves and smallholdings. I get some good photos of lizards and a Woodchat Shrike (bird). Still descending the path becomes a track and this runs out at a cleft in the rocks (the cover shot of John Waller's book). Wow what a view; forwards I can see the Cape Arillas with Afionas on the top leading down to the two bays of Porto Timmoni, behind the Dhiapondis Islands of Mathraki, Othoni and Erikoussa are clearly visible (if you have not made a day trip to these Islands you must add it to your to do list........wonderful, tranquil and great sandy beaches all to yourself). You then go through the gap onto the start of a walled footpath and the view opens up and stops you. Now from Afionas you can see right round to the whole of AG Georgios bay, its spectacular beach and the village behind long and drawn out along the coast. Breathtaking. So great is the view you almost forget the amazing feat of engineering (not that they had such tools) this roman walled path on the cliff side is. Too narrow for cars it will hopefully remain the preserve for walkers as it is truely amazing and not just the views and the blues of the sea below as you begin to zigzag down the cliff face. There is a large cave up on the cliff face which you could climb to; even has rock steps built up to it. I was tempted but didn't wish to risk my foot on it. The descent is gradual on this path but at its end you continue the descent in woods and olive groves. Now a path by some bamboo reeds difficult to see but I picked it up at the second attempt, pushing through the reeds to start a steep descent on a cobbled path which eventually and surprisingly quickly brings you to the coastal path. You now follow this past a fish taverna and ontowards Ag Georgios. At one point the winter storms have taken away the path and diggers are there repairing it. A scramble over mud and rock brings you back onto the path which eventually joins the beach. It is a very long curved blue flag beach and whilst there are many people on it doesn't give the feeling it is busy such is the space. I'm on the look out for refreshment and soon find a sign to a 'Pestaurant'. It advertises sardines so in I go. Its been a great walk; hard at times, hot at times but wonderful and I would certainly walk this day again. A few beers and of course a plate of fresh grilled sardines; heavenly and is real Corfu to me. Onto my hotel, The Belle Helen on the sea front. Its large and very nice; the receptionists daughter looks admiringly at Shrek. I get my bag and head to my room with views out the back to the inland hills. I change shower and head to the pool area; i wont go on the sandy beach as the pool is so inviting and a nice suntrap. A swim and dry in the sun at the edge with my feet still cooling in the water. Then I sit under a reed umbrella at a high table, write my notes while having a few Royal Ionion beers. What a nice end to a lovely day.
That evening I decide to eat at the Hotel as they have a set menu for 10€. I sit in the bar having a beer and a party of Germans in a group are sat at the other end; not one has brought a drink; their leader comes across to the bar and asks the lady to turn off the music and could there be quiet in the bar (there was only me, the bar lady and her son) as she wants to read a story to her group! I glance at her papers and there is a big cartoon picture of a mosquito! She tells her story to the 20 or so mostly over 50s who politely laugh at the funny bit and applaud at the end. If thats the German equivalent of a Saga holiday may I never go on one! Four courses; first up is a feta and leek pie not too big but a nice size and very tasty. It is then help yourself from the salad bar and you can return as many times as you wish. Then a portion of beef stifado with mini onions rather than the traditional shallots; this again was tasty. Finally help yourself desserts; a small plate with melon, both yellow and watermelon and a saucer with a very small baclava cake, triangular in shape. Good value for the 10€. After dinner I sit in the bar and have an ouzo or two before going for a walk around and nosing in the tourist shops where I buy a few small items to bring home. Finally back to my room to pack ready for tomorrows shorter walk..................and during the night the rains start!

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Comments

[David Penfold]

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I much prefer your alternative cover. Shrek enhances a lovely view. David

[Daveyh]

Book Cover
I wonder what John Waller thinks!