Day 10 Ag Georgios to Rekini - friends in Sidari

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As I siad yesterday during the night the rains came; not a typical thunderstorm but more like British rain, continual shower. It was raining when I awoke at 6:30 and looked like it had been for hours and the sky was dark grey everywhere you looked. I had obviously come to Corfu expecting some rain during my walk - to have had none during 16 days late May early June would have been very lucky. I decided to travel light to minimise the things that could get wet as today would be a shorter walk at just 14km; so no rucksack and no Shrek............I didn't want him to get soaked and he'd take forever to dry and if I put him in a plastic bag he would suffocate! Full of compassion I am. My mobile and camera were put into plastic bags; my walking instructions for the day were ok as expecting some rain I had laminated each days notes with map on reverse. My big map was also put into a plastic bag. I would wear my waterproofs and keep them on even if the rain went away. Down for breakfast at 7:30 and waiter tells me it should clear by lunchtime. A decision to be made; do I delay my start as when I get to Rekini I have a bus to catch or taxi to phone; buses are only at 2.15 and 4.30 and walk was approx 4 hours. I could have a few hours in Ag G and leave at 11;30ish. Now I had already planned to go to Sidari this evening to visit friends so the decision was I would walk in the rain. The sky was looking to clear over Cape Arillas in the NW; today I was walking east which was into the rain.
I put my money, camera, phone, map and water into my pockets and off I set just after 8am. As I leave my bag and rucksack in Reception I notice the young girl looking again at Shrek so I jokingly say to her he is going by car to keep dry and she is not to take him away.......she just smiles. It is now light rain as I walk along the sea front, over the wooden plank that crosses a stream running out over the beach and up onto the road where I turn inland past the Alkyon Hotel. Up the road where I'm approached by a gaggle of geese and ducks........sorry chaps no food on me today, past a few houses, and shops. I now turn onto a track and must follow the main track always uphill. It is a steep climb in places taking about 40 minutes; the early climb was on a clay like surface which due to the rain was very tacky and slippery in places; where is a nice cobbled path when you need one? When it becomes more of a path it is the most overgrown grassy one I have yet walked so also very wet. However at one point it opened up to give me a final view back to Ag G bay. I finally enter the village of Prinilas; through alleyways between houses, along a road to the cemetary and back on a track again very grassy and now a steep descent through an olive grove. It has now stopped raining but everytime I brush against a shrub or branch of a tree I have a cold shower. It is noticeable that the only sound today is birds; very few insects flying around. There are no butterflies so far and no sign of the lizards. The main sound is the rustling of my waterproofs as I walk along.
Shortly I enter the village of Pagi. Being wet and in waterproofs I didn't wish to go off trail and explore a bit. I believe there is a ruined church here; just the walls with no roof where a graveyard is inside the ruin. Would liked to have seen that but didn't know exactly where it was in relation to the trail and didn't wish to get lost finding it. So I continue through the village, then down a track into a valley and to a stream bed; this stream has to be forded and with my leg I cannot jump. The overnight rain has swollen the water a bit but it is shallow and I am already wet so it was just 2 big strides and you were across. Shortly I am on a road for a while which is better walking in the wet. Next its back into the olive groves for a zigzag ascent; the groves are different today due to the rain; the leaves are darker, more green than silvery grey. Its all the changes due to the waether, rain, shade, low sun, high sun that make the groves so fasinating as they are ever changing in appearance. To be in the groves walking alone is to be a peace with oneself; whenever I'm in the groves or forests I just hope I will get the surprise I wish for; a big snake or such that hasn't heard me coming so I can get a photo. That I hope is the advantage of walking solo; less noise to disturb the snakes, lizards etc. Also in a group not only is it the talking that distracts from what you see and warns of your approach but if there is anything to see only the person at the front sees it; stop to photo and the person behind walks into you! Whilst a group is better for company, finding the trail in places and in case you have a fall and injure yourself going solo has many benefits in what you see and hear. Well thats my opinion; but of course not everyone wants to walk solo. Back on a road through the small village of Aspiotades. I overtake an old man walking up into the village carrying an umbrella; does he expect more rain! Maybe I think as he has local knowledge. In just a couple of minutes you reach the next bigger village of Manatades. Cutting up an alley as you enter you climb up and exit near a large Health Centre, pass another cemetary (today was a day of cemetaries and Health Centres and why are they so close to each other!) and little church. Now you approach another larger church; this one is unusual as the cornerstones are all numbered, odds on one side, evens on the other, 1 at the ground and 47 (i think I remember) at the top. Moving on I soon come to another church on the crown of a hill where I have to cut through the garden and down a descending path; the papas and another man are at the entrance to church as I pass into the garden. I am about to descend the stepped path when my eye is distracted by something most strange on the flat cleared area to my left; it is a bomb! Rather large like a torpedo shape and it is mounted on a stand! No mention of this in my notes and since my return nothing in any of my numerous Corfu guide books; in fact not much about any of the villages. Maybe a book should be written with the history of the Corfu villages that would be fasinating; doing the research by talking to the old villagers. Shame I only speak a very few words of Greek and cannot afford to fund myself or I'd love to do that. Anyway before we get back on track (haha nice pun that) I am told that the bomb was dropped in WWII but didn't explode. It was made safe and mounted and there it remains to this day. After descending the steps you are soon in the village of Agros..............here you can divert to the village centre where there are shops for refreshment. I didn't need any more water so didn't venture but kept on the trail which soon leads to yet another village of Agios Athanasios (and another Health Centre). Through a neighbourhood descending slightly past houses with large gardens all set out like well maintained allotments; a baker is delivering bread, the loaf is in a plastic bag and then tied or placed on a hook on the outer gate or wall of each house. I'm surprised the larger birds haven't learnt how to raid this food supply..............or maybe thats why the plastic bags are bright colours. Back at home I'm sure that it would be stolen!! Continuing on with olive groves now either side of the road a minor road is taken past Agios Athanasios Monastery. There is a sign on the gate that you can enter if appropriately dressed...............I decide wet walking shoes and waterproofs are not very appropriate and walk on by. Opposite there has been some severve pruning to an olive grove. Now the track descends to another valley bottom, no wading needed here but there are plenty of those bamboo plants which produce the nice canes the locals use. Now uphill and then again down to the valley bottom where a river is crossed and then uphill to emerge on the main road; turn the corner and you are at Rekini. Rekini is not actually a place but the name given to the road junction. It sits on a bridge over the Megapotamos River. I look at the bus timetable on the bridge to see if there in earlier bus as it only 11:35 and while there see a Kingfisher flying along the river. There isn't so its either a long wait or a taxi. The sun comes out! I go to the local shop which sells tobacco, sweets etc. He also does coffee and cold drinks. Great place, there is even a bottle opener tied to the fridge door; thats what I call customer service. Walk is over for today, time for a beer and some crisps (Lays Olive Oil crisps.......very nice and not too salty). Take off waterproof jacket and am well sweaty underneath even though it a beathing one. The trousers have generated as much damp inside as they got outside and my shorts are soaked throough. Rather than sit is damp clothes I phone a taxi and it is 13€ to Pegasus Hotel at Roada crossroads. Book in and good to see Shrek is there. Nice room and large hotel with big swimming pool . It is used by Olympic and Thomas Cook and independantly. No swimming for me as I'm off to Sidari. So its change and a shower. I put my clothes out on the balcony to dry as the weather is now good and a breeze picking up. I ask at reception about buses to Sidari but there isn't one for 3 hours so its another taxi.....................same car A9 but different driver! 14€ this time to Sidari main car park.
Sidari is my resort of choice when I visit Corfu as it has everything; nice beach, nice mix of Greek tavernas and tourist tavernas (if you want to eat on a budget they are very good both price and value for money), plenty shops even if some are filled with rubbish that next to no tourist would buy. Nice bars and choice of loud bars, quiet bars or nightclubs in the evening. Just a stroll to Canal D'Amour area where it is quieter and there are more Tavernas and bars and some lovely small beaches between the sandstone mini cliffs. Its a beautiful area and a good base. I pop to the bank as running low on money and then walk through the resort, past the beach which is empty as there is a strong breeze coming off the sea whipping up waves and blowing the sand; this effectively closes the beach. As I head towards the turning for the Canal D'Amour area I notice the road has been tarmaced and last years dodgy zebra crossings have not been repainted. Along the path by the tennis courts and oh, what a shame (the wind means most tourists stay at their accommodation pool so the streets are quiet) there is no violin man about.............he is almost famous, can be seen on UTube, and I missed his 4 scratchy notes and a cheery 'woopah'. I notice Dimitris has now become a pizza type place, shame he did a great value breakfast and no pizza place will beat Romanos behind the church in my opinion. Straight on at The Three Pigs; hope to see Marcos setting up in The Family but all is quiet so on I stroll to Terezas (where I usually stay....with Olympic and very popular and many people return here every year and I've met so many lovely people here and made many friends.......including Ian the Ghost writer). They are very surprised to see me; a nice hug from Tereza who asks what I doing and where I stay. I tell her as she pours me a Mythos in a nice frozen glass and she is amazed; Spiros is his usual happy self and gives a hug also. He listens and then says I must be using a car; when I say no I have walked all the way and show him my swollen foot he laughs and says 'you are just crazy'. He tells me I've been to many places he has never been to and he has lived on Corfu all his life. The beers flow and ouzos too as we chat; Angelo arrives with his fiancee and its more hugs and they show me their 'engagement rings'. I am happy for him as he is such a great lad. A phone call to Ian (ghost write) so he can chat with Tereza and Angelo. I had dinner here later on after Angelo return.........Swordfish steak with tomato and cucumber salad. I bid them goodbye and promise to return to stay with them in October.
Now its a short walk on up the road away from town for a 100 metres or so over a footbridge on the right and follow the track round to the road that runs through Canal D'Amour out to Peroulades village. Turn right and in 200metres you are at Orchard. This excellent Tavera is situated in an orchard of many different kinds of fruit most of which will end up on the menu. Debbie and George are wonderful hosts (well Debbie is usually cooking and hidden in the kitchen). Today is Debbies birthday so beers are had to toast the happy occasion as we chat. Its quiet here but then it is early season for this part of the resort. It is such a shame so many people who stay in Sidari never venture this far up the road (or go past on their quad or hirecar to Sunset beach without stopping); they all miss out on a great meal. Sitting in the garden area here is lovely and the olive groves over the road going up to the cliff tops of Cape Drastis provide shelter from the strong breeze. Now I have told you I'm not really a dessert person, but I've had a few on this trip to build up fuel for my walking. However I usually have one of Debbie's crumbles as they are so delicious with ice cream. In October it is quince but today I believe it is loquat. Anyway very tasty. Its now approaching 9pm so its a stroll to the taxi rank and back to Pegasus. Whether it was the drink or me being forgetful I don't know but I turned on light then opened the balcony doors to bring in my now dry clothes..........fatal error as I let the mozzies in and I paid a price during the night. I even had to get up to spray the room as I was being dive bombed by the pesky blighters buzzing away like insect Spitfires. Next morning I had more than a dozen bites on my arms, shoulders, neck and one on my forehead! There was even blood on my pillow! Tomorrow...............heading into the Panokrator range and a truely special surprise.

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