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Published: January 30th 2011
Sunset surfer
Waikiki BeachAs always when one prepares to leave, a wave of fond nostalgia appears to sweep away the negative aspects of the experience; leaving behind mostly warm, rose-colored memories. Such is the case as I plan my last weeks in Hawaii. I find myself caught up in an aura of swaying palms and warm water…the unhurried rhythm of island life which I am sure will stand in sharp contrast to the bustling urban streets of my next destination.
For the past year, I have been living in what has been dubbed as paradise for most Americans (and many others around the world) – the dazzling white
beach scene on an office desktop calendar, the garish Aloha shirt waiting to be unearthed from the bottom of a dresser, the pineapples on an aptly named pizza. A vision to keep you warm in the winter, help you through all those long tedious afternoons at work, and motivate the kids to go to their swim lessons.
But does this place really exist?
Sometimes, I draw inevitable comparisons to Alex Garland’s novel The Beach, which centers on the protagonist’s search for purity and paradise in Southern Thailand. The young backpacker ultimately finds that human greed corrupts even the most remote and untouched of places.
Though things are gradually changing, world travel has not traditionally been a part of mainstream American culture. The idea of a gap year, or extended trip abroad, is rarely considered even among the younger generations. Perhaps some of this is due to the vastness of the country itself…vacationers have the opportunity to see towering mountains, plains, deserts, and cityscapes without venturing across a border and out of their comfort zones. For Americans, Hawaii has the lure of the exotic tropics without the need for a passport or currency exchange. It is safe enough
Wow.
The breathtaking view from the Pali Lookout. to bring the kids, cheap enough to suit a variety of budgets, and varied enough to offer everything from spa stays to bungee jumping. And for this it has suffered.
Before I continue on this theme, I should be clear that my experiences extend to O’ahu only. In my year here, I have not ventured to any of the surrounding islands. It is something I had intended to do and now regret…pitfalls of a student budget and rapidly evolving plans. O’ahu (“the gathering place”) is smaller than both Hawaii and Maui, though roughly 75% of the state’s residents reside here. It is home to the state government, the international airport, and burgeoning population of close to one million people.
Oahu is crowded, and the impacts of locals and tourists alike are far-reaching. Hawaii is sometimes referred to as the “endangered species capital of the world”. According to the New York Times, nearly half of the 114 species that have become extinct in the first 20 years of the federal Endangered Species Act were in Hawaii. The Hawaiian Islands have a distinctive and delicate ecosystem that remained virtually untouched until the arrival of Western sailors in the late 18th
Sunset
Waikiki century. With the outsiders came intrusive species of plants and animals that threatened the native wildlife. In one notable instance, mongooses were released to kill rats which were wreaking havoc on sugarcane crops. Instead, they began eating the eggs of local birds, devastating the population.
Unlike Seattle, the idea of recycling and personal shopping bags has not caught on here on Oahu. I have been shocked numerous times to see a tourist purchase a small item at the convenience store – such as a bottle of water or tube of sunscreen- and seen it thrown carelessly into a plastic bag which will soon be stuffed into a garbage can. The garbage epidemic has led the government on a frantic quest…where to put all the trash. Currently, the waste is being mashed into cubes, placed on a barge, and awaiting shipment to Washington State. The argument is, of course, that the tourists create a vast amount of the trash, so why not send it back to the mainland with them? There is some validity in this argument, but regardless, there is a tremendous need for increased eco-conscience on the part of all involved.
Honolulu also has a big traffic
problem. When I first arrived on Oahu I was stunned at the number of cars given the small size of the island. More recently, as we drove back into Honolulu in our rental car, I got to experience the traffic first hand…six lanes of cars, 12 mile outside of the city, bumper to bumper. In addition to the obvious environmental impact of so many vehicles on an already fragile ecosystem, is the pure danger of stepping into the crosswalk. I actually can’t count how many times I’ve almost been flattened by an impatient driver, or seen other pedestrians almost become the victims of a hit and run. In January along Honolulu experienced five pedestrian deaths. Perhaps the constant traffic snarl makes drivers extra aggressive behind the wheel, but one thing is for certain…there is no aloha spirit on the road.
Incidentally, people are not allowed to ride bicycles on any sidewalk in Waikiki. Those doing so will be punished with a ticket and fine. Waikiki police officers, in the interest of keeping everyone “safe” are eager to deal out such penalties, and have a particular reputation for pouncing on jaywalkers. Showing no mercy to foreigners, old ladies, or college
students loping across empty streets they deal out hefty fines…though I have never once seen them stop a speeding or reckless driver.
The mere mention of
Waikiki instantly conjures up images of tan surfers, azure water, hula, and fruity beverages served in coconut shells. Waikiki is the tourist hub of the islands. Some visitors spend their entire trip here; others are simply passing through on the way to other locales. The area is constantly pulsating with humanity, but not the usual ordered chaos one finds in the city. Waikiki caters entirely to the vacationer.
On every corner an ABC store sells everything from coconut candles to hardboiled eggs, and in every convenience store shelves of cheap liquor entice the passersby. The busy streets of Waikiki bake in the midday sun, crowds are everywhere, and the concrete jungle is cramped with hotel chains, Denny’s restaurants, gun clubs, strip clubs, tattoo parlors, and dive bars. In the days before its frantic development, Waikiki used to be a stretch of marshland; a spacious green expanse leading all the way to Diamond Head. Now it is a burning, blistering strip of asphalt full of spit, sirens, and cigarette smoke.
There is something very difficult about remaining permanent in a place built on transience. There are the obvious annoyances…like the American tourists who stumble onto the bus unprepared, spend several minutes fumbling in their wallets for correct change, and then proceed to pull out the map and ask for directions as the bus misses three light cycles. But there is something intangible as well, the atmosphere of constant vacation which makes me feel guilty every time I open a textbook…am I missing out on some spectacular waves? How can I pass such a gorgeous day in the library when everyone else is on their way to the beach?
If you’ve stuck with me this far, you are probably wondering why I have bothered to blog my laundry list of complaints, juxtaposed against snapshots of blissful sunsets and lush jungle. Many would roll their eyes in disgust at my seeming lack of appreciation for a wonderful opportunity. This is not the case. My year here has been exceptional – full of adventure and happiness. But I feel that it would be a betrayal to my experience to gloss over frustrations. Part of life here, like anywhere, has its ups and
downs. The beaches of Waikiki are indeed postcard-worthy, but the paradisiacal image is only part of the intricacies of a throbbing and vibrant city. With that said, I will shift gears to a more positive note.
In spite of my complaints, there are also tremendous advantages to Waikiki. One highlight for me has been the gorgeous
Kapi‘olani Park, a gift of land from King Kalakaua to his wife, was officially established in 1876. Over the past months I have spent many an afternoon here, picnicking, sleeping, drawing, running, playing my drum, gazing at Diamond Head. I am not alone in my enjoyment – the park is always busy, its immense playing fields hosting everything from tween soccer to Samoan rugby, not to mention kite fliers and the fantastic Honolulu Cricket Club. The park also occasionally boasts events such as the
Ukulele Festival and concerts by the
Royal Hawaiian Band , which once entertained the monarchy and is now the only municipal band in the United States.
Nearby, the fantastic
Honolulu Zoo is a great place to spend an afternoon. The zoo itself is small but personal, and is beautifully landscaped with massive Banyans and tropical
plants.
The beaches of Waikiki offer endless possibilities. There is some good
snorkeling, though the visibility varies throughout the year. Regardless, I have seen turtles, triggerfish, eels, puffers, white-tip sharks, and other reef dwellers very close to the city. When conditions proved to choppy for underwater exploration, we spent a great deal of time body boarding near
The Wall , which is something I will dearly miss. It can get crowded, especially during the summer. My favorite time to be out was always at dusk, and one of my lasting memories of the island will forever be floating on my board, watching the Friday night fireworks erupt across the sky.
To get a more local perspective, we would often take the bus to
Ala Moana Beach Park , across from the massive shopping center. The vibe seemed much more laid-back than Waikiki, and the area was always filled with large family groups barbecuing, fishing, and surfing.
My school is located downtown, near the beautiful
Iolani Palace and
State Capitol Building . This area is the historical heart of the city, located roughly thirty minutes by bus from Waikiki.
The area is right
Hawaii Theatre
Downtown/Chinatown next door to the once-grungy
Chinatown , still best avoided after nightfall in some areas, but learning to clean up its sleazy image. The area is packed with excellent food, traditional medicine shops, and Asian groceries, along with an ever-growing number of art galleries and hip bars. Chinatown is the go-to place for saavy urbanites on the weekend; and the first Friday of every month culminates in a massive celebration of music, dancing, gallery walking, and drink specials. One of my favorite watering holes on planet earth is located here – aptly named the Opium Den, it features bright green walls, Asian-themed furniture, Buddhist art, and looks like something out of a Graham Green novel. Plus, they have killer jalapeno martinis.
Also downtown is the historic
Aloha Tower , once the tallest building in Honolulu. In the past it greeted visitors arriving to the island by boat and now still welcomes the towering cruise ships that dock nearby. There is a shopping center, and some fabulously tacky bars in the vicinity.
Other noteworthy sights include the infamous
Pearl Harbor , where over 1000 soldiers still lie entombed in the skeleton of the USS Arizona. I visited
in the spring when an old college friend came to visit. Since Pearl Harbor is still the top tourist attraction in the Hawaiian Islands, I assumed the experience would be horrible. However, the memorial is extremely well-organized and professional, the staff moving tourists through quickly and efficiently while still maintaining the level of respect appropriate at the site of such a tragedy. In spite of my initial trepidation, I found the trip to be very moving, the sense of loss still palpable above the calm Pacific waters.
Since I am hungry, my final thought on Hawaii will end with food. Primarily, we ate Japanese cuisine, did some good cooking in our small apartment, and also indulged in some local flavor at events like the [b0 Waikiki Spam Jam (no explanation necessary!). While living on Oahu, I took full advantage of the supply of delicious, fresh fish, particularly ahi tuna. A Japanese-run place on my campus serves up a scoop of spicy raw fish with rice and veggies…pure heaven. I would literally fly to Hawaii just for one gulp.
Enough of my summary of life on Oahu. To conclude here are a few antidotes we wrote over drinks
one night in our apartment. Goodbye Hawaii, Mahalo Nui Loa.
After nearly a year in Waikiki I…
- Can catch a wave and successfully navigate my bodyboard around a hoard of surfers, swimmers, paddle boarders, snorkelers, and children with floaties without causing bodily injury or loss of limbs
- Have developed a fondness for Spam musubi, and eat it regularly and without shame
- Know the meaning of the acronym for ABC Stores
- Don’t bat an eye when five police cars, an ambulance, and a fire truck fly around me with sirens blaring
- Know exactly where to go when someone gives me directions referring to the “Mauka” or “Makai”
- Can expertly dodge around hoteliers, gun club promoters, strip club gurus, travel agents, bums, street performers, and restaurateurs promoting their business (as well as masses of confused, map-toting tourists with ten suitcases apiece) and still make it onto TheBus.
- Can nearly speak Japanese and have a considerably better fashion sense because of it
- I now possess a superpower that allows me to detect a pack of cigarettes being sold at ABC via the thumping of the package,
the unwrapping of the cellophane, the anticipatory hacking and gurgling, the rasp of the lighter, and the perma-cloud of smoke hanging over the smoker’s miniscule brain cells. Think that sounds gross? Don’t light up.
- Have tried every flavor of mochi ice cream available
- Can no longer differentiate between hookers and civilians
- Appreciate the good life playing my drum on the beach after Hana Hou and Pao with homework
- Adequately navigate Kapiolani Park without sprinkler immersion at dusk
- Understand Hawaiian royalty and historical figures deserve a much greater place in history that the occasional street or restaurant name
- Can expertly spot the difference between floating debris and the bobbing heard of a green sea turtle in the most tenacious surf
- Can bypass Hanuama Bay guilt-free
- Schedule my days around beating the lunch crush at Ahi and Vegetable CG
- I can write a letter, check my voice mail, do my homework, and read War and Peace between three bus stops in Waikiki at rush hour
- Have several shark friends (white-tips) who I know by name, and whose reef I visit regularly and
without the soundtrack of “Jaws” playing in my head
- Know that an “easy” hiking trail in Hawaii involves combat boots, industrial strength mosquito repellent, dizzying heights, unmarked trails, and lots of mud
- Have a yearly pass to the Honolulu Zoo, and count hippos, gibbons, mynas, gharials, elephants, baboons, and Rusty and Violet as some of my dearest neighbors
- After months of takeout culture, I still can’t view styrophome in a positive light. Please Hawaii… learn to recycle!
- My perfect day consists of Ted’s Bakery, Shark’s Cove, Sunset Beach, and driving along the Kam Highway
- I still get breathless every time I see the pali from the Windward Side
- Am a proud survivor of the 2010 tsunami
- Can instantly identify parts of hiking trails and downtown Honolulu as scenes from “Lost”
- Am truly content to while away my days under a tree in Kapiolani Park
- Understand the significance of “Eddie Would Go” and wholeheartedly agree with “Keep the Country Country”
- I can furnish my apartment free thanks to my discerning eye and the piles of junk left on the street for
would-be takers
- Have a large collection of jewelry and tourist kitsch featuring sea turtles, shells, pineapples, and hibiscus.
- Operate on Hawaii Time
- Can recognize octopus eyes in the tiniest crevice on the reef, and at the same time avoid planting my hand in the jaws of a Moray Eel
- Can escape the Food Pantry in 10 minutes flat
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Deborah Bradbury
non-member comment
Wonderful
As always, wonderful, perceptive, humorous. You are so much more than just the traveler who "passes through" - you see things with both open eyes and open mind. Love, Mom