The real Thailand

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Ellie and I are not brilliant in the morning. Or in the sun, or at swimming ... But we managed public buses to Ayuthaya. It only took five hours to go about 150km. There isn't much sense of urgency on Thai transport. The first bus, the 12.20, set off around 12.40, drove around the corner and stopped for another 40 minutes or so, before belching its way out of town.

The second bus only made one strange detour and had a huge American flag printed on the roof.

At Ayuthaya I left my hat on the bus and we walked the wrong way. But finally we found rooms of an adequate nature. Shared bathrooms, and I don't have a proper towel. Well I have no towel, I'm using a beach top to rub myself down.

My first room was like a prison cell, but I had a small tantrum and was moved to a bigger one. It pays to be difficult - must use this new skill sparingly.

The night market is excellent, with hundreds of strange things to eat. Some are VERY spicy. Even the Thais know this and wave us away from the really hot stuff. 'Not for you!' they laugh.

It was Ellie's birthday so after we headed to the guest house bar for a cocktail and got roped into singing California Dreaming with the local Bob Dylan/Cat Stevens/Eric Clapton. His interpretation of the lyrics was a bit random, as was our ability to hit the right notes.

An American at the bar refused to sing, but bought him a beer. Then he joined us and bought us beers, and these Colombians gave us whisky. It became one of those nights you don't really remember ending. Might have been a bit drunk. Hmmm, didn't drink that much, but it is really hot. Keep doing 7-Eleven runs for more water.

Felt like crap this morning. Were going to hire bikes and look at Thai kingdom ruins, but at 2pm we'd got as far as sitting in the bar eating eggs, and moaning. And going to the 7-Eleven.

Steve was at the bar, drinking beer. We'd met him the night before when he bellowed at us and gone through where we were from, but he was drunk and couldn't remember any of it.

He was born in England, was married twice in Sweden and now has a Thai wife. He sounds like he's spent a lot of time in Australia and lives in Ang Thong, a small town north of Ayuttaya, running a language school.

He is, by his own admission, very social. One could say, unkindly, that he never shuts up.

'You're not going to Sukothai, are ya?' he asked. 'It's just more ruins and shit. Eveyone does the same circuit and sees the same shit. Fuck that.'

He suggested we visit him. 'It'll be free digs, I'll lend you bikes and shit and you'll see real Thailand, not this tourist shit. And there's a really big - what do you call the opposite of reclining? yeah, upright Buddha and shit too.'

He paused to take a phone call. 'Yeah? No shit. Tell his wife to make the fucken stew with dumplings and shit ... Yeah, yeah ... Fuck it!'

He hung up and resumed talking with us. 'What kinda food do ya like? Steak? Spaghetti? We'll have a few beers and shit. Go on. Get off that tourist trail circuit and see some good shit.'

We told him we'd think about it. I found him a bit irritating at first - he was making so much noise - but began to grow on me. Staying with him would be an experience, and if it was hideous we could always leave.

The previous evening the American was telling us about travelling in Laos, how he would get off at small villages where tourists never went and the locals would give him accommodation and food. He said it was amazing - real travel. That sounded tempting too. Maybe visiting Steve would be an interesting step towards escaping the hordes going from one guesthouse to another according to the guidebook.

According to Steve, the people of Ang Thong would be pleased to have visitors. Budgetwise there was certainly alignment at any rate. Ellie said we could still go to Sukothai too, those ruins had to be popular for a reason.

Cycled the Ayuthaya ruins, they were crumbling, much as you would expect. Good brickwork for the 14th century, but too hungover to care that much. Was fantasising about a banana shake and deep fried prawn cakes with sweet chilli sauce.

No alcohol tonight.

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Comments

[Heather]

I enjoyed your Ayuthaya post. It reminded me of my time in Thailand and how much I loved it! Mmm, I miss the food so much! My travel blog is looking for photos, reviews, etc, to share. If you have the time, check it out at dirty-hippies.blogspot.com, or email me at [e-mail]. Continued fun on your travels! Heather :)