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Published: April 20th 2010
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Some of the roads around our accommodation More thoughts on modern China.
The Chinese supposedly have a superiority complex in regard to The West, that leaves Japan for dead. They firmly believe their moral and ethical superiority is such that The West is firmly in “decline” and that this century will see the leadership of the Middle Kingdom extend well beyond its historical borders. Partly for this reason, America and others struggle to deal with the economic implications of the new China. Only last week, President Hu, firmly folded his arms at the USA, and said that China would reconsider its currency valuation, on its own time scale, not that of the West or the USA.
While all this sounds great in an academic text, seeing the evidence on the ground remains elusive!! Thursday, after the third continuous day of pouring rain, Molly got to chose the destination, and we chose the Yangshuo Water Caves. Now, importantly in China, these were the “real caves” not fake. According to the brochure, “In Yangzhou a certain Water Cave called by some caves, whom make use of the reputation of water cave, man-mading the waterway entrance of Water Caves features, and following the water Caves’ scenery name, and
so on, cause you take a mistake to tour”.
These 3 km long Limestone Caves, challenge anything Waitomo has got, and add a couple of swimming holes, a mud bath, and some thermal pools and you have a great afternoon. Our guide, Long Faye, after pointing out such elaborate formations as “gold mountain, fairies, dragons, tigers’ and may other ancient formations, tries gently to talk us out of the last 30 minutes of the tour. The 2 Danish girls accompanying us will have none of this, and we proceed to see some of the more spectacular parts of the cave as we trek to swimming hole number 1. After a quick dip in a crystal clear pool, we speed back to the start point. As we pass groups of domestic tourists, the horror of seeing groups clambering all over “snow mountain” reminds me that ecological appreciation is still at a depressingly low level of understanding. The mind boggles, how many of the original stalegmites / tites, have been (and continue to be) removed, repackaged and resold in a tin shack up the road. At least, the triple warnings of “no urinating in the caves” ensures we could step as
we pleased. However avoid the smoking, we could not. The tour guides, the photographers and the little shadows lurking in the background of the Caves, all seem happy to puff away releasing who knows what further damage onto the previously pristine limestone formations.
I wonder, after our guide, Long Faye, has tolerated our straggling 3 year old, what sort of a tip, would be appropriate. The Danes make it clear, there is none from them. I proffer a 5 Yuan note (90 cents). I get a smile, a photo with Molly and a handshake. It appears to be about right.
Shame about the Danes, given they are leading the butter competition. I have had to manage on “Lurpak” butter for the last 5 mornings. Anchor is coming a distant second at present. It was last spotted in Guilin after holding a slight advantage in Hong Kong.
Friday and Saturday see us on rental bikes for the 2 days, dodging showers, climbing Moon Hill, terrifying Molly in the streets of Yangshuo but admiring the stunning scenery. However on Saturday, we succumbed to the thunderstorms and returned to the Lodge/Hostel (The Giggling Tree) in a Tuk Tuk, cold, and
wet but with a typically nonchalant Lauren in good humour. As we sheltered for an hour from the rain, in the lee of a string of motor mechanic workshops, we were offered seats, tea, play time with local kids, and the opportunity to warm up around a charcoal fire. Eventually, the mention of “taxi” by me, had our shadow (as one can’t travel around these parts without a tout or two symbiotically attaching themselves to you) immediately rustle up a taxi. While she might have invested nearly 2 hours in us, and missed us as customers on her bamboo raft, she again, seemed thrilled to take 5 RMB as a tip.
The Giggling Tree is a collection of old farm buildings renovated by a Dutch couple to a moderate standard. They are very quiet and about 4 kms out into the countryside. The buildings and land are leased from the local village. I have to imagine, the owners would have an interesting life.. They have a 3 1/2 year old, but Lauren. Lauren liked his toys, but thought little of his company!!
Frances has found Lauren difficult to get to sleep at nights, hence we are on a
late start and late finish routine. Not ideal, but with 5 nights in Yangshuo, we are all well rested.
The girls have all had no health issues, however Frances has been a little sensitive in the tummy, and Bernard ran a temperature one day, that disappeared overnight. However, given the propensity for Pizza and French Fries for the girls, their exposure risk must surely be lower? Frances has developed a rash on her inside elbow and chest area. Any suggestions? Despite being better equipped with medical supplies than a Cambodian Hospital, she assures me there is nothing in them that will assist.
I am unsure about this superiority complex. Molly, after struggling on a bike for 2 days, experiencing pot holes and mud roads the like she has never seen before, simply burst out close to tears at one stage and cursed the government. Based on what I have told her about the Chinese US$ reserves she simply spat out, “why doesn’t the stupid government build proper roads for these people?”
A good question indeed. With massive currency reserves, trade surpluses and huge annual growth, the answer is clear. The goal here must surely be the much
lamented (in NZ) “trickle down effect.” Maligned and discarded by our political confusion, its obvious that the change is everywhere. Yes, its poor here, the roads are crap, the showers don’t work, the buses are decayed, the beds are hard, the bikes are broken, and yes, a miserable 90 cents is still a tip appreciated and not despised. But the change is also as compelling. The larger towns have a vast array of consumer goods, massive investment, vibrancy, and most of all, confidence. We have seen no beggars or those looking for a handout, but we see great entrepreneurship.
In looking around, and trying to make sense of the 21st Century China, and consider what I have come to experience, its not superiority complexes I see, but simply a mighty internal economy starting to work better and more efficiently. I think, like in Vietnam, these Chinese of today are rapidly erasing their history, as they have done time and time again, and embarking on a new dynasty. Maybe unnamed, but economically, surely more significant that previous dynasties as the impacts have already well and truly changed The West.
Mind you having philosophised on all this, the fact remains,
the weather is rubbish. We are back in Guilin, and ready to leave, hopefully to see the back of rain and thunderstorms. Its pouring outside, the thunder sets of a new car alarm every few minutes, the lightening is frightening and all our washing remains wet, for about the third day in a row! The prospect of another day shopping in Chinese Fashion boutiques with Molly, spurs me to scan the Lonely Planet…… for our next destination.
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Susan McD
non-member comment
Hi Ya! great to get the first installment! Good photo's. Let's hope you get some sunshine soon and dry out. Good character building stuff I am sure. No idea on Frances rash - ask a local perhaps for some tonic?