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Published: March 31st 2010
Today was quite an adventure!
Our 9am sharp departure turned into 9:10, plus there was lots of traffic which made a few street crossings extremely difficult. So we ended up jogging the last few blocks to make it to our rondevouz for the Vatican tour. We made it, only 5 minutes late, and not (quite) the last people there.
Steve got the group signed in and oriented, and distributed headsets. Then we headed off to Piazza San Pietro. We went through security then met at the base of the Obelisk. He gave us pointer for good places to stand to be able to see the Pope. Kimmy and I situated ourselves and caught what we thought was a pretty close view and turned to walk away, then realized he was coming even further into the audience, so we rushed back and got a few other photos. He was in the Popemobile, waving to the crowd. We stayed for the very beginning of him addressing the crowd, then headed off to the Vatican museum.
Wednesday mornings are the best day to go to the Vatican museum, because every Wednesday is the Pope's public "audience", which keeps many people busy elsewhere . . . so the line that can be up to 3 hours long was about 15 minutes. Again through security, then Steve got our group tickets (again saving us from lines) and we headed into one of the largest collections of art in the world. We started in a courtyard, sitting on steps in the sun, in view of the Sistene Chapel dome (which is for the most part not visible from Piazza San Pietro! You can see only the very tip.) Steve gave an incredible art history lesson in 30 minutes that kept even Kimberly interested. He explained each of the panels of the Sistene Chapel and hinted at the influences. He told the drama of the selection of Michelangelo for the job, the disagreements he had with Pope Julius II, and the exhaustion he suffered as a result. He inserted himself as two characters in the ceiling, both looking worse for wear. One was the prophet Jeremiah (who wrote Lamentations), and the other is as the skin of Saint Bartholomew (who was skinned alive and is painted alive, holding his skin.) He had props for his lecture - laminated copies of prints of various parts of the ceiling. He explained what a fresco is (did you know that the artist paints directly on the wet plaster, causing a chemical reaction that draws the paint into the plaster? Any mistakes need to be fixed with a chisel and more plaster . . . no painting over it.) He also explained all about the scaffolding . . . he did not paint lying on his back - a very old urban myth. He built custom scaffolding that looked like suspended steps. We experienced what felt like a full art history course in 30 minutes. Again, told with great theater and humor. He even involves the audience, got to know something about everyone ahead of time and drew you in. Kimberly got a lot of that type of attention, which kept her involved.
Then we headed into the museum, and spent the next 1.5 hours in the museum, going through room after room of sculpture, frescos, and tapestries. During the Renaissance many statues from ancient Rome were rediscovered and Julius II collected them here in the Vatican museum. Kimberly especially liked the statues of Roman gods. Although she did wish they wore more clothing. Other highlights . . . some magnificent tapestries, woven such that the faces follow you when you move. A room full of map frescoes that were done based on measurements made with poles and chains . . . and which are amazingly accurate. Along the way, Steve pointed out various pieces of artwork that inspired Michelangelo. He painted the visual of Michelangelo walking through these very halls on his way to work on the scaffolding in the chapel, absorbing all of this classic art.
Kimberly was exhausted by the time we got to the map room, which Steve noticed and he gave us an early out. He continued with the group to the Raphael Room, but Kimmy and I went right to the Sistene Chapel. We got a spot on the bench that lines the wall, and after looking at the ceiling for a bit, Kimmy put her head in my lap and napped for half an hour. After 20 minutes, the group joined us for another 10 minutes. I enjoyed a full 30 minutes of absorbing the ceiling. It is a breathtaking work of art, that is about all I can say. It is clearly one of those things you just need to experience. And I am so glad that I did!
We spent a few more minutes with Steve at the back of the chapel, where he explained the role of the Sistene chapel ritual of the election of a new Pope. Then we headed outside through a special group exit that brings you inside the basilica complex (others exit through the museum and must reenter through security). He then oriented us to how to explore St Peter's and we said our good-byes. Kimmy and I plan to send him a postcard from Venice. We met an American family who lives in Belgium during the tour (they had done both the Colleseum-Forum and the Vatican) who have an 11 year old daughter Kiley, who Kimberly befriended. We took a photo but forgot to get an address, missed a great penpal opportunity.
Kimmy wanted to start with the grottoes (the tombs of the Popes). I explained to her about Pope John Paul II, who still has many mourners gathered at his tomb (this was true when I was here in 2006, and seems no less true now). I also explained to her about the archeological explorations beneath the Basillica, which my friends and I explored last time I was here, a necropolis where St Peter's bones are believed to have been found.
We took a much needed bathroom break, then headed inside the basillica. We saw Pieta (Michelangelo's famous sculpture) and then walked through the nave of the church to the altar and looked up inside the dome. After that Kimmy really wanted to go up into the Dome. However, the line appeared to be well over an hour long. So we decided to head out. Once through security, we saw that the line for getting into the Piazza was now also at least an hour long.
We bought drinks and then parked ourselves on the trusty picnic blanket and had lunch with our backs to the Vatican wall. We did a bit of shopping, then walked back towards Castel San'Angelo and over the bridge. We found a bus stop, and did my first ever impromptu bus trip in any city. I am very intimidated by buses in general, and especially where I do not speak the language. But we read the signs, figured out which three buses would work, then boarded the 40 when it arrived. Got off at Kimberly's new favorite place, Torre di'Argentina. And once again, we visited the kitties.
This time we had brought some gifts for them. They have a giftstore where they sell new and gently used items. My Aunt Shazi was a cat lover and collected cat tchotchke. We brought two items (a framed engraving of a cat, and a wooden statue that sits on a shelf) to donate. They were so touched. Kimmy was wearing her Gatti di Roma shirt that we had purchased the previous day, and they took a photo of her for their blog. Hopefully it will be up by the time we get home.
We once again took the tram back to our neighborhood, then walked the now familiar path through the picturesque houses of Trastevere. This time we did not get lost! Kimberly has gotten really good at navigating.
We have a new roommate - we now have a full house. Her name is Erin, and she is from Minnesota! No, not Erin Castelli, although that would be very fun 😊. She just finished med school and is touring Europe with her mom (but they made last minute reservations so her mom is in a different room.) Kimberly and I had dinner in the common room. After dinner we played yahtzee and cards, and talked with Erin and her mom. Others were in there too, and turned on the TV. It was the Simpsons . . . in Italian!
We got into bed at 10pm, and finally Kimberly fell right to sleep, I think the jetlag is finally gone. Last night we had loud neighbors over the low wall, eventually Erin went over to ask them to be quiet. She must command authority already because they were instantly silent.
I am up early, for two reasons . . . it is getting harder to get a long block of time at the computer. Also, we are heading out very early today. I will wake Kimmy up now (it is 6:45) and we will walk over to the Vatican to get into the queue for the security and then the Dome. The Piazza opens at 7am, and the Dome at 8am. We hope to be in line for the Dome at 8.
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Nigel
non-member comment
art history
Nice comments on the art, Tammy. "The Agony and the Ecstasy" starred Charlton Heston as Michelangelo and Rex Harrison as Pope Julius II. This is what I remember. Julius: When when you be done? Michelangelo: When I'm finished. I do, however, have a degree in Art History. Go figure. It's hard being a non-believer and studying art history. One still has to memorize a lot of biblical stuff to pass. =;-}>